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Old 10-28-2012, 09:22 AM   #4486
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thanks for the info guys, so if I change all to hard plastic, what sort of changes to the car handling wise?
The car will have a more direct feel.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #4487
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Have a look at the pictures in my first post.

Basically, I take the V2 (one-piece) motor mount, and put on the V1 (two-piece) centre bit. This part connects the top deck as well as the bottom deck, where as the V2 centre piece only bolts to the bottom deck.

Now, when mounting it up, I put the screws in the same place as the V2 on the bottom deck (so that's 5 screws, leaving the middle one empty, first pic below), then in the top deck, just mount up the forward most screw, that screws the topdeck into the V1 centre piece.
(As I mentioned in the first post, you do need to raise the top-deck to make sure you get even flex though, hence the adding of the orange 0.5mm shims in the second pic)

This is the same way that the BD7 has it's motor mount setup, and it's something that seems a lot of other cars are moving towards... seems to help with a bit more rear flex, and does seem to help give more rear traction.

HiH
Ed
I did the modification to S411 this weekened and all I can saw is awesome. The rear of the car is much more predictable through the coners - especially at corner entry and mid corner.

Thanks for all the work you guys are doing
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:21 AM   #4488
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I had a pretty good race this weekend, finished 4th in a very competitive modified crowd, 5.7 s between 2nd qualifier and 7th.
The track was small with low grip (carpet) and tires preglued Sorex 28. I used Rasmus setup with difference:

- 60w in rear diff
- 4mm droop front and rear

The car was very easy do drive and the rear end was really stuck on the low grip carpet. Had D/R on 80 percent, more than enough...
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:14 AM   #4489
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Originally Posted by Green Machine! View Post
I don't know if this helps any but but my diff is running flawlessly. This is what I did and experienced: On the brand new S411TE kit I recieved about a month ago, the gear diff bag included the two main gears and the two smaller gears. I installed the large shims behind the main gears (in between the gear and the o-ring) like the instructions tell me to. The kit also came with the two small shims that would normally go behind the 2 smaller gears. (only installed two gears, not four, didn't even come with four) The revised instructions that came in the box showed the picture installing WITHOUT them. Wasn't sure about that but I did what the instructions said and my diff is very smooth and no gritty-ness whatsoever. (without even sanding anything. Everything looked perfect when I inspected it all) I guess the small shims wern't needed. Using a mix of 1000 & 2000 oil filling to the top just covering the teeth of the gear. Had the new clear looking o-ring seal. Not one drop of leak at all. Does this have anything to do with what everyone is talking about? I race 17.5 Blinkey and I use a Novak balistic with the hi-torque rotor and it is as fast and punchy out of the corners as any other car on the track so I feel the weight and performance of this gear diff is just fine. Feels the same today as when I built it a month ago.
And on a side note, before I had a Xray T3 so when the Spec-R gear diffs came out I bought one. Then right before I sold the car I got the Xray one and both leaked a little and neither felt as smooth as this new Serpent one. Just my experiences...

The V2 diff is smoother than the V1 diff. I always sand the gear. Yuo can't be sure, that the backside of the gears don't have any tiny grit. Therefore - always sand the gears before use.

You can tune your diff. Especially the V1 diff. Either sand the gears a lot, or take one shim (or even both shims) away from one of the large gears. The diff will free up. You can't feel the teeths anymore.

In our two cars, we have in 1 years never had a diff break down. Runs both superstock (17,5 T boosted) and modified.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:17 AM   #4490
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Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I had a pretty good race this weekend, finished 4th in a very competitive modified crowd, 5.7 s between 2nd qualifier and 7th.
The track was small with low grip (carpet) and tires preglued Sorex 28. I used Rasmus setup with difference:

- 60w in rear diff
- 4mm droop front and rear

The car was very easy do drive and the rear end was really stuck on the low grip carpet. Had D/R on 80 percent, more than enough...

Nice to hear, that you could use the setup.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #4491
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Just wondering peoples personal opinions on this rig compared to Xray's T3/T4's... I assume by posting in this thread, I already know what direction it will head. I'm getting a little pissed off with xray updating their kits every year and feeling like my $500-$600 kits & spares I just bought are so obsolete w/a whole new platform out... I mean I know there's quite a few parts that are interchangeable between all the T-Series platforms but now since this T4 came out, there's even less. Of course it's going to be a pita to unload last years model for a decent price because almost everyone and their mother is gonna want the latest and greatest xray has to offer. Their all over the FS section as you can see. Cheaper everyday. sad thing is... i'm in the same boat! I'm always looking for that extra edge that a product can provide me that all the tuning/setup/track time can not compensate for... The quality of the materials, the company relations, the part support, durability and of course how the tuning capability of the car can take your driving to whole new level. XRAY is a great company don't get me wrong, they make world class kits and I pay the price for it every year...

I'm thinking about hitting up SERPENT. I personally never seen one in person. I've did some reasearch on a few forums, stared at online pics, reviewed their site over and over, read a few reviews and talked to few LHS's about them but it's time for a post to get the final & last touch of personal opinions. I want to know from drivers about their kits and how you would cpmpare them to the competition. (specificlly xray, cause thats what I drive)

Parts availability & spares won't be a problem but lack of drivers for this brand will be. The fact I won't be driving what everyone else has and not having to buy a new kit every year is why i was looking into this companies car. The Team Edition S411 seems to be the ticket. Now, I know their's xray's at your club races... how would you compare them on the track & in hand? How about the quality compared to every one else... is it a substantial difference? More wear than wanted? does this car have something the others don't? Whats your first, last and obvious impression on this rig/company.

Thanks for the input guys.
Just a small input. We let a T4 driver run a few laps with our car - S411-TE. Allthough he just ran the few laps, he was able to hit the corner perfect from the first lap. It was easy to drive, were his words. Not like his T4 - but very easy. Like a Tamiya - but more steering.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:33 AM   #4492
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Every car has major upgrades every few years like X-ray now and the T4. All the S400 users were in the same boat when the S411 came out last year. There will be a new update for this car sooner than later as most of the team drivers were testing a new split block chassis at the last ETS.

Most of us mere mortals never get the last 1/10th's out of our cars like these pro guys do.
Most of the team drivers...??? No. I've spoken with Serpent today. Yes - they are testing split blocks, but just with three cars. There exists only three handmade chassis. I don't know, when the new chassis and the split blocks will be released. My guess is around new year.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:46 PM   #4493
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Hi guys, I've recently accuired a s411. Seeking your advice on the essencial things I need to change and be competitive before I run the car. I mainly run on asphalt surface tracks here in Singapore.

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:46 PM   #4494
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Hi guys, I've recently accuired a s411. Seeking your advice on the essencial things I need to change and be competitive before I run the car. I mainly run on asphalt surface tracks here in Singapore.

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:43 AM   #4495
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Originally Posted by Eazy View Post
Hi guys, I've recently accuired a s411. Seeking your advice on the essencial things I need to change and be competitive before I run the car. I mainly run on asphalt surface tracks here in Singapore.

Thanks
Is it a standard S411 or a S411TE?

If it is the TE version, which I assume, you don't need anything, although the DJC are really nice and durable I have used mine for more than a year in modified now, and there is minimum wear!
The only thing you need is a good setup http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5533

As you can see I am using the hard plastics, which is what you generally want to have
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:48 AM   #4496
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It's the standard s411.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:52 AM   #4497
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Originally Posted by Eazy View Post
Hi guys, I've recently accuired a s411. Seeking your advice on the essencial things I need to change and be competitive before I run the car. I mainly run on asphalt surface tracks here in Singapore.

Thanks
Hi.

Race it, as it is!!! Get used to the car. It has plenty of steering as it is.

Depending on the grip of the track you drive, you can do this:

- flex topdeck 2,0 mm = gives you a bit more flex and a little more steering
- chassis 2,25 mm = again gives you a little more overall grip (is now the
standard chassis of the newer S411-TE version). If you run on a low grip
track, you can maybe order the 2,00 mm chassis. Allthough, I don't have
any experience with that chassis.
- hard plastics - wishbones, uprights, C-hubs = the car will react more
precise, but you will maybe loose a tiny grip. Most racers changes to hard.

If you have updated those above mentioned things, you almost have an S411-TE version. The only thing is then the dampers, but the old version is as good as the new version and easier to rebuild/maintenance.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:40 AM   #4498
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You have another main difference, the steering track.

cheers
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:31 PM   #4499
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My TE does have a lot of steering like everyone has been saying. What would you suggest to increase my on-power initial steering slightly and reduce my on power mid, and corner exit (or at least gain rear traction coming out of a corner)
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:45 PM   #4500
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My TE does have a lot of steering like everyone has been saying. What would you suggest to increase my on-power initial steering slightly and reduce my on power mid, and corner exit (or at least gain rear traction coming out of a corner)
That depends on your current setup

If you could post a complete setup sheet, it will be much easier to guide you to a good solution. There are a lot of possibilities, but it all depends on how the rest of the car is setup
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