Burnt Novak GTB and a LiPO nicely puffed..
01-26-2011, 06:59 AM
#1
Burnt Novak GTB and a LiPO nicely puffed..
Hi there,
Just as the topic says really but I'm new to this hobby so please bare with me.
It's the GTB Velociti 3.5R and the battery i'm using is a 50C 5000Mah Intellect which i'm confident is capable of providing enough juice but for some reason it puffed up tonight. So after almost crapping myself removing the battery from my car I tried to plug in my second one which is exactly the same model, the plugs contacts sparked and the ESC smoked up.....bye bye GTB. Also I should add that the trans cap was replaced due to an earlier weird incident when I was programming the ESC, the trans cap blew on me....
So that lead me to replacing the cap, tho there's a catch. There was no way I was going to do it myself so I had to get a boffin to do but how he did it was just snipped the two wires of the old/bad cap in half and soldered the new cap to wires instead of de-soldering the bad cap and soldering on the new cap directly to the PCB. His argument was that he didn't want to mess with the factory solder and it was also because he wasn't comfortable soldering on PCBs. Also you may be thinking that the LiPo cut-off was not enabled, that may be indeed. But I'm not so sure because prior to the ESC pooping itself, it worked okay and the LiPo cut-off worked as it should but it was left un-attended for quite some time...about 2 months because I had broken the two drive shafts up front and the replacement didn't arrive till this week. Can ESCs lose their defined settings when not in use for a period of time?
But besides that could someone help me pin down the cause, I'm really confused as to what caused it. Though I'm not expecting to re-use the ESC of course but I'm sure the motor is fine.
Thanks
Just as the topic says really but I'm new to this hobby so please bare with me.
It's the GTB Velociti 3.5R and the battery i'm using is a 50C 5000Mah Intellect which i'm confident is capable of providing enough juice but for some reason it puffed up tonight. So after almost crapping myself removing the battery from my car I tried to plug in my second one which is exactly the same model, the plugs contacts sparked and the ESC smoked up.....bye bye GTB. Also I should add that the trans cap was replaced due to an earlier weird incident when I was programming the ESC, the trans cap blew on me....
So that lead me to replacing the cap, tho there's a catch. There was no way I was going to do it myself so I had to get a boffin to do but how he did it was just snipped the two wires of the old/bad cap in half and soldered the new cap to wires instead of de-soldering the bad cap and soldering on the new cap directly to the PCB. His argument was that he didn't want to mess with the factory solder and it was also because he wasn't comfortable soldering on PCBs. Also you may be thinking that the LiPo cut-off was not enabled, that may be indeed. But I'm not so sure because prior to the ESC pooping itself, it worked okay and the LiPo cut-off worked as it should but it was left un-attended for quite some time...about 2 months because I had broken the two drive shafts up front and the replacement didn't arrive till this week. Can ESCs lose their defined settings when not in use for a period of time?But besides that could someone help me pin down the cause, I'm really confused as to what caused it. Though I'm not expecting to re-use the ESC of course but I'm sure the motor is fine.
Thanks
01-26-2011, 07:55 AM
#3
Sounds like the first battery pack damaged your GTB and the second pack finished it off. Any number of things may have caused the damage. 3.5 turn motors are the hottest motors we make and they probably subject the esc to the most potential damage from not being used/soldered/cooled properly. Your TransCap module not functioning correctly could contribute to the melt-down.
You can return you burnt GTB to us and replace it with a RMF GTB, exchange for our new GTB2 (available mid-Feb) or exchange into any other esc we currently manufacture. See details here:
TeamNovak Trade-In Program
Please email [email protected] with your question, Our regular CS/Tech Support hours can be located here. Before emailing, take a moment to review the instructions (trouble-shooting guide) originally included with your Novak Item:
Novak Instruction Downloads
The more information you provide in your first email, the more quickly tech support can offer you assistance; without his information, diagnosing your problem is practically impossible.
You can return you burnt GTB to us and replace it with a RMF GTB, exchange for our new GTB2 (available mid-Feb) or exchange into any other esc we currently manufacture. See details here:
TeamNovak Trade-In Program
Please email [email protected] with your question, Our regular CS/Tech Support hours can be located here. Before emailing, take a moment to review the instructions (trouble-shooting guide) originally included with your Novak Item:
Novak Instruction Downloads
Please make your initial email as detailed as possible. Include:
~ speed control (brand/model)
~ motor (brand/wind)
~ number/type of cells
~ battery, brand (c rating/capacity
~ rotor (old/new)
~ connectors used
~ servo (brand/model)
~ radio system (receiver/transmitter)
~ vehicle & gearing
~ warranty claim?
~ lipo cut-off, on/off
~ any external modules (BEC/brand, Glitch Buster)
~ other important info: water damage, corrosive chemical sprays, excess heat, etc
~ speed control (brand/model)
~ motor (brand/wind)
~ number/type of cells
~ battery, brand (c rating/capacity
~ rotor (old/new)
~ connectors used
~ servo (brand/model)
~ radio system (receiver/transmitter)
~ vehicle & gearing
~ warranty claim?
~ lipo cut-off, on/off
~ any external modules (BEC/brand, Glitch Buster)
~ other important info: water damage, corrosive chemical sprays, excess heat, etc
Hi there,
Just as the topic says really but I'm new to this hobby so please bare with me.
It's the GTB Velociti 3.5R and the battery i'm using is a 50C 5000Mah Intellect which i'm confident is capable of providing enough juice but for some reason it puffed up tonight. So after almost crapping myself removing the battery from my car I tried to plug in my second one which is exactly the same model, the plugs contacts sparked and the ESC smoked up.....bye bye GTB. Also I should add that the trans cap was replaced due to an earlier weird incident when I was programming the ESC, the trans cap blew on me.... So that lead me to replacing the cap, tho there's a catch. There was no way I was going to do it myself so I had to get a boffin to do but how he did it was just snipped the two wires of the old/bad cap in half and soldered the new cap to wires instead of de-soldering the bad cap and soldering on the new cap directly to the PCB. His argument was that he didn't want to mess with the factory solder and it was also because he wasn't comfortable soldering on PCBs. Also you may be thinking that the LiPo cut-off was not enabled, that may be indeed. But I'm not so sure because prior to the ESC pooping itself, it worked okay and the LiPo cut-off worked as it should but it was left un-attended for quite some time...about 2 months because I had broken the two drive shafts up front and the replacement didn't arrive till this week. Can ESCs lose their defined settings when not in use for a period of time?
But besides that could someone help me pin down the cause, I'm really confused as to what caused it. Though I'm not expecting to re-use the ESC of course but I'm sure the motor is fine.
Thanks
Just as the topic says really but I'm new to this hobby so please bare with me.
It's the GTB Velociti 3.5R and the battery i'm using is a 50C 5000Mah Intellect which i'm confident is capable of providing enough juice but for some reason it puffed up tonight. So after almost crapping myself removing the battery from my car I tried to plug in my second one which is exactly the same model, the plugs contacts sparked and the ESC smoked up.....bye bye GTB. Also I should add that the trans cap was replaced due to an earlier weird incident when I was programming the ESC, the trans cap blew on me....
So that lead me to replacing the cap, tho there's a catch. There was no way I was going to do it myself so I had to get a boffin to do but how he did it was just snipped the two wires of the old/bad cap in half and soldered the new cap to wires instead of de-soldering the bad cap and soldering on the new cap directly to the PCB. His argument was that he didn't want to mess with the factory solder and it was also because he wasn't comfortable soldering on PCBs. Also you may be thinking that the LiPo cut-off was not enabled, that may be indeed. But I'm not so sure because prior to the ESC pooping itself, it worked okay and the LiPo cut-off worked as it should but it was left un-attended for quite some time...about 2 months because I had broken the two drive shafts up front and the replacement didn't arrive till this week. Can ESCs lose their defined settings when not in use for a period of time?But besides that could someone help me pin down the cause, I'm really confused as to what caused it. Though I'm not expecting to re-use the ESC of course but I'm sure the motor is fine.
Thanks
01-26-2011, 12:42 PM
#4
Looks like it caught your avatar on fire as well.
To the thread starter: Does your IP5000 pack have bullet connectors or Deans? I've seen ESCs plugged in backwards, which they do not like. This is much easier to do with bullet connectors, since they aren't foolproof.
To the thread starter: Does your IP5000 pack have bullet connectors or Deans? I've seen ESCs plugged in backwards, which they do not like. This is much easier to do with bullet connectors, since they aren't foolproof.
01-27-2011, 04:12 AM
#6
Sounds like the first battery pack damaged your GTB and the second pack finished it off. Any number of things may have caused the damage. 3.5 turn motors are the hottest motors we make and they probably subject the esc to the most potential damage from not being used/soldered/cooled properly. Your TransCap module not functioning correctly could contribute to the melt-down.
You can return you burnt GTB to us and replace it with a RMF GTB, exchange for our new GTB2 (available mid-Feb) or exchange into any other esc we currently manufacture.
You can return you burnt GTB to us and replace it with a RMF GTB, exchange for our new GTB2 (available mid-Feb) or exchange into any other esc we currently manufacture.
Thanks
01-27-2011, 09:02 AM
#8
Unless you've soldered the wires to the ESC backwards, using Deans connectors makes hooking the battery up foolproof.
01-27-2011, 10:24 AM
#9
This really does not surprise me at all. The new 50/60C batteries are pretty stout (amps) most are motoring down to avoid smoking the esc.
Would recommend motoring down to 5.5 to 6.5 with any brand 1/10th esc to have a longer life expectancy. Most mod drivers are using a max motor of 4.5 or 5t due to the new generation of batteries.
If you are dead set on running 3.5 motors you will need to get a 1/8th scale controller that can handle heaps of amps. LRP SPX8 or Tekin RX8
Would recommend motoring down to 5.5 to 6.5 with any brand 1/10th esc to have a longer life expectancy. Most mod drivers are using a max motor of 4.5 or 5t due to the new generation of batteries.
If you are dead set on running 3.5 motors you will need to get a 1/8th scale controller that can handle heaps of amps. LRP SPX8 or Tekin RX8
01-27-2011, 10:36 AM
#10
This is just a personal opinion, the GTB has been out for a while. I'm not sure how many updates Novak made or maybe there wasn't any.
The LI-PO battery technology is getting more advanced, the C ratings will continue to go up. I am even affraid of using/buying the high C rating li-po battery because my brushless motor and esc will probably can't handle the power.
The LI-PO battery technology is getting more advanced, the C ratings will continue to go up. I am even affraid of using/buying the high C rating li-po battery because my brushless motor and esc will probably can't handle the power.
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