Originally Posted by Customworksking

I was wondering what blocks to use when I add anti-squat I have super low blocks now do I move the front up a notch or can I use the stock block and put it in the lower hole.....what I think is,it is the same but more or less degree...any info will help thanks

Originally Posted by 1fastguy1

maybe try the 2 degree rear uprights
it really plants the rear of the car.
Mo

Originally Posted by barnacle

RDXracerboy- where in the corner is your car getting loose? entry, middle, exit?

Originally Posted by barnacle

It sounds like it is an on-power situation.

The thicker oil is probably slowing down the weight transfer at exit and keeping the weight on the nose a little longer than with the 20wt oil.

Originally Posted by barnacle

Thats up to you!


The fast guys are fast because they TEST stuff to see what works.

Originally Posted by RDXracerboy

When I first built my kit and I went to put in the droop screws, my integy wrenches striped them so I have no droop at the moment. (haven't had time to go to shop to get them yet but am going to put them in before race weekend) but even though it had no droop, with the stock setup of 20 wt oil all around with 17 lb springs all around, the car felt really hooked, the back in would not get loose even if i tried really! All I did was change the wt and springs, now I just got done with some more testing, nothing has changed just that I put 35 wt all around 17 lb springs in front and 14.5 lb srpings in rear, now rear is really loose and will break very easily and lose it. I know droop has a big part in why its happening, but why is it so much worst just by the oil and spring changes? Both test runs where in same place same asphalt, only other difference is the first time with stock setup I had my older CS27GL's in it, and this time I put my brand new ones on... And man was the back loose. Any suggestions besides droop?

Originally Posted by RDXracerboy

Thanks for the replies

P.S. I would like those 2 deg uprights in my box for testing, whats part #? Can't find at site...

Originally Posted by Jeff Brown

First Rule of Asphalt: Setup is 90% Tires (Yes, I know every uses CS27 or RP30 typically)

Used tires always push, especially if they are used more than 3 runs. Which most people do. So they kind of adjust the car to that setting. Then they put on "freshies" and the car is insanely aggressive.

I think without the droop screws it will be tough to try things and the fresh tires are too aggressive. The tires were the biggest change as the oil and springs seemed fine.

Jeff

Originally Posted by RDXracerboy

Ok I get it, I know it's hard without the droop but was wondering why such difference just cause oil change, anyways I understand the wheel part, but if I shouldn't setup with fresh tires or ones with more then 3 runs, which should I setup with?

Originally Posted by Jeff Brown

I think the car with new tires is too aggressive because of the roll due to no droop screws. So when you put the screws in and adjust it, it won't be so violent of a difference.

I try to setup the car for fresh tires but that gets expensive. Its a balance for sure.

Jeff

Originally Posted by barnacle

FBJ- where is that indoor asphalt track????