Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

actually, they are all offset a little... just that the low's are more offset.

Rick Draper

Are there any good online shops that stock the 2.4mm chassis and other option parts for the corally? Also can you run a center oneway with it? I notice speedtech sell some bits but not all of them.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

There's a new track opening up in our area pretty soon that's going to be indoor 'high-grip' asphalt. Can the one-way version be adapted to handle such stresses or am I better off in the long run getting the US Carpet Spec version? -JB

speedxl

Give superior hobbies a call they carry the specialized product line which caters to corally! (407) 834 9299 Tell them I sent you!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Hey Jaybee,

You'll be good with the one way car. Maybe just pick up a spool if you haven't already just in case. I'll probably be there and at rain city alot so you can just come over and steal my car when I'm not looking and grab the setup lol. Unless it;s like really funky traction like socal raceway I think we'll be fine.

-Korey

Glowster21

iTrader: (136)

Quick setup question....My inside rear wheel tends to lift when cornering. Will putting in more droop solve this? I run a short camber link with the droop set to 2 on the Hudy guage and a 5mm ride height. Also, will plaids on the front help make initial turn in more aggressive than Cyan's? High bite carpet track with Magenta's on the rear. Any ideas?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I would think that adding more suspension travel to the rear would help, but there might be someone else thats out of line. The way I setup my droop is when you lift up on the car when it's fully loaded with batteries and motor, it should lift up about 2mm in the rear and about 1.5-2.0mm in the front.

Plaids are harder, they won't bite as hard as the cyan's will. I think plaids are generally a 40 durometer main part, with a 50ish shore outer sidewall. The cyans are abotut he same just with a 35 durometer main part. So Plaids are a harder overall tire.

What is the rest of your setup as well? I think it woul be easier to help if we could see if anything else might help.

-Korey

Glowster21

iTrader: (136)

Korey, Thanks for the info...Here's my setup. Someone told me that the harder the tire, the less sidewall flex and greater initial turn in. Thats why I was curious about the plaids.

I run the 4mm carpet chassis with the Carpet top deck.
Rear is 1.3mm piston w/ 40wt oil and 26lbs springs.
Shocks are mounted in the second hole from the ouside on the tower.
Camber link is outer top on the tower and lower middle on the hub.
2 degrees rear toe in

Front is 60 wt oil with 1.3mm piston and 33lbs springs
Shock is in 3rd hole from outside on tower and last hole out on arm
4 degree c hubs
Camber link is top row 3rd hole from outside.
Zero Degrees Toe

Layshaft is in the highest position with no belt tensioner.

Cyan front, Magenta Rear at 55mm each

5mm ride height front and rear with Droop at the 2 mark front and rear

2 degree negative camber on front and rear

No tweak in the car at all...

Fantom Quad Mag at 108/38 with LRP QC2 and Phazer Receiver

HS5925 MG servo

Any ideas? Totally baffled about the tire lifting....
Joe

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The comment abotut he tires does make sense to a certain extent. The thing is the cyan would be a much better overall balance with the magenta rear. With the plaid you might have more turn in but you'll loose steering just abotu everywhere else in the corner.

Try and shorten your front camber link. If you're looking for turn in that will give you all the turn in you'll ever need. I generall like to keep the turnbuckles really close the the same position on the tower. Big differences will make the car handle really funky and do weird things like the rear tire lifting. I have mine in the shortest position on the top row on foams. Also are you using a lowered front shock tower? When you lower the shock tower it changes the camber link positions a bit.

So just try the droop setup and the shorter link and I think that will help ya out. Hope this helps a bit.

-Korey

speedxl

Its not a droop issue. Its a rollcenter issue, or too stiff a rear .

Glowster21

iTrader: (136)

What are the advantages or disadvantages to the height of the layshaft?

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

adjustment is mainly for rear belt tension. I always run mine all the way up. I dont really think that running it up of down will effect anything else.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I keep seeing posts on a "lowered shock tower". Where does this part come from and what are the advantages? I'm having a hard time getting my car down to normal ride height anyway, so I'm wondering how this affects ride height also.

speedxl

Your not having problems with the tower. If you go to the lower towers you create a worse problem. How low can you go now? what are your shock length's fully extended off the car, and are you using different springs then what came or are designed for the car?
I can get ride hieght with plenty of room to lower the car and scrape the chassis. and raise it at high as I can get it. My shock lengths are 63 mm from tip to bottom.
One thing you can do if you have the bottom shock eyelets screwed in all the way is trim 2 mm off the shock shaft and 2mm off the plastic eyelet.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

i think many use the lowered shocktower to make clearance to lower the body.... i know on my Parma Alfa's, if you use the cut line, you can't get it low enuff before the body hits the tower... especially with foams.