RCAmerica/Xray,Hudy
#301
Suspended
Thanks Andrew.
It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.
Thanks again
It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.
Thanks again
#302
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Andrew I'm up at 2 am trying to figure out how thick 6 mil is and how thick it really needs to be. The price drops considerably for 3 or 4 mil and even more for 2 mil. It's not like we need it to stop falling meteors...or even foot traffic for that matter. For reference a Hefty Steel Sak trash bag is 1.5-1.7 mil.
-rocky b
-rocky b
Thanks Andrew.
It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.
Thanks again
It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.
Thanks again
My pleasure. I started using the acetone just to make the TA last longer because thats what I had always done when we used paragon. It worked so I am sticking with it. In fact, the last time I sprayed it was probably closer to 6:1 ratio.
#303
Andrew I'm up at 2 am trying to figure out how thick 6 mil is and how thick it really needs to be. The price drops considerably for 3 or 4 mil and even more for 2 mil. It's not like we need it to stop falling meteors...or even foot traffic for that matter. For reference a Hefty Steel Sak trash bag is 1.5-1.7 mil.
-rocky b
-rocky b
#304
Hey guys just wanted to let you know that T3'11 setup sheets are online at www.teamxray.com. Mine and Paul's are up there now from the Halloween race. Paul's setup is a basic setup that we feel will be a good base setup. My setup is one that has been tweaked on from there, so you can kinda see where we went with it.
The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.
Thanks Drew
The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.
Thanks Drew
#305
Hey guys just wanted to let you know that T3'11 setup sheets are online at www.teamxray.com. Mine and Paul's are up there now from the Halloween race. Paul's setup is a basic setup that we feel will be a good base setup. My setup is one that has been tweaked on from there, so you can kinda see where we went with it.
The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.
Thanks Drew
The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.
Thanks Drew
#306
Paul would for sure.
#307
Suspended
LMAO! Don't break eye contact
#308
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
kobiwan: the hillbilly link is when you attach the front camber link via a ballstud to the front bulkhead instead of the shock tower. Basically, you screw in a ballstud to the bulkhead on the backside of where the bottom 2 screws for the shock tower are. This allows the use of an extra-long camber link up front. Sorry, can't find any picture of it right now.
I've seen a pic of Pauls car with the link but it looks like an open ballcup but I can't identify the parts, are they xray parts?
Seems the stock cups get in the way of the bulkhead and bind a bit.
#309
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Curiuos as to what size/type/brand ballstud you are using as well as the brand of ballcups and rod length.
I've seen a pic of Pauls car with the link but it looks like an open ballcup but I can't identify the parts, are they xray parts?
Seems the stock cups get in the way of the bulkhead and bind a bit.
I've seen a pic of Pauls car with the link but it looks like an open ballcup but I can't identify the parts, are they xray parts?
Seems the stock cups get in the way of the bulkhead and bind a bit.
#310
Suspended
You should be able to get away with just these parts. It may help to place a 2mm shim behind the ball end to make sure it doesn't hit the bulkhead. I also dremeled some material away from the bulkhead to help straighten out the link, although I don't think the angle affects anything.
XRA302655 - Ball Ends
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...10mm%20%282%29
XRA302612 - Tie Rods
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20T6%20%282%29
XRA302665 - Ball Cups
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Hole%20%284%29
XRA302655 - Ball Ends
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...10mm%20%282%29
XRA302612 - Tie Rods
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20T6%20%282%29
XRA302665 - Ball Cups
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Hole%20%284%29
#311
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
I don't think you can use the stock Xray open end ball cups as you are right, they will hit the bulkhead. Personally, I am using Tamiya flouride 5x5mm ball studs with Tamiya closed end ball cups. That is simply because that is what I had in my box. You can use 35 or 40mm links.
#312
So is the team still running the hillbilly link with the new car? And what about cvd length?
#314
Hi guys, everyone needs to try the H1 and H2 camber links in the front. Paul and I tried and ran them at the Halloween race. I picked up 2 tenths 10.3 to 10.1. Paul went the same speed but said he would stick with them. We ran them in the low long spot on the tower with 2mm shims under the link. Run the H1 on the left and the H2 on the right. Please post feedback here.
Thank Drew
Thank Drew