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Old 10-28-2010, 10:39 AM   #301
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Thanks Andrew.

It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.

Thanks again
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:01 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
Andrew I'm up at 2 am trying to figure out how thick 6 mil is and how thick it really needs to be. The price drops considerably for 3 or 4 mil and even more for 2 mil. It's not like we need it to stop falling meteors...or even foot traffic for that matter. For reference a Hefty Steel Sak trash bag is 1.5-1.7 mil.

-rocky b
I would guess you could get away with thinner plastic. It all depends on how careful people are with it. We have to prepare for the worst because there is no supervision of the track during the week. I would also recommend storing the tarp in a safe place or maybe with a board in front of it to prevent cars from wadding it up into the tarp. The first few days we didn't have anything in front of the tarp and I noticed a few tears I suspect were from cars driving on or into the tarp. I gorilla taped the tears and haven't seen any reappear since. I would consider the weight of the tarp though as it is quite heavy and with only four hands grabbing it there can be a lot of stress on the edges of the tarp as it is being pulled...

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Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
Thanks Andrew.

It seems your track has a few more issues preventing grip than the track I'm going to, but you still provided some valuable information there. I'll definitely be talking to the track owner about trying some of this. I've used TA in the past before also, but have never tried cutting it w/ Acetone so I will give that a shot this time around.

Thanks again

My pleasure. I started using the acetone just to make the TA last longer because thats what I had always done when we used paragon. It worked so I am sticking with it. In fact, the last time I sprayed it was probably closer to 6:1 ratio.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:10 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by flatspunout View Post
Andrew I'm up at 2 am trying to figure out how thick 6 mil is and how thick it really needs to be. The price drops considerably for 3 or 4 mil and even more for 2 mil. It's not like we need it to stop falling meteors...or even foot traffic for that matter. For reference a Hefty Steel Sak trash bag is 1.5-1.7 mil.

-rocky b
The cover likely has to be moved often during a racing season....6 mil gives you more durability.
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:25 PM   #304
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Hey guys just wanted to let you know that T3'11 setup sheets are online at www.teamxray.com. Mine and Paul's are up there now from the Halloween race. Paul's setup is a basic setup that we feel will be a good base setup. My setup is one that has been tweaked on from there, so you can kinda see where we went with it.

The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.

Thanks Drew
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:33 PM   #305
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Hey guys just wanted to let you know that T3'11 setup sheets are online at www.teamxray.com. Mine and Paul's are up there now from the Halloween race. Paul's setup is a basic setup that we feel will be a good base setup. My setup is one that has been tweaked on from there, so you can kinda see where we went with it.

The next race for Xray USA will be the Indoor Champs in Cleveland Ohio. Paul and I are set to attend.

Thanks Drew
Drew who would win the money if you and Paul were sitting across from one another ?
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:46 AM   #306
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Paul would for sure.
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:22 AM   #307
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LMAO! Don't break eye contact
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:59 PM   #308
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
kobiwan: the hillbilly link is when you attach the front camber link via a ballstud to the front bulkhead instead of the shock tower. Basically, you screw in a ballstud to the bulkhead on the backside of where the bottom 2 screws for the shock tower are. This allows the use of an extra-long camber link up front. Sorry, can't find any picture of it right now.
Curiuos as to what size/type/brand ballstud you are using as well as the brand of ballcups and rod length.

I've seen a pic of Pauls car with the link but it looks like an open ballcup but I can't identify the parts, are they xray parts?

Seems the stock cups get in the way of the bulkhead and bind a bit.
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Old 10-29-2010, 01:28 PM   #309
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Curiuos as to what size/type/brand ballstud you are using as well as the brand of ballcups and rod length.

I've seen a pic of Pauls car with the link but it looks like an open ballcup but I can't identify the parts, are they xray parts?

Seems the stock cups get in the way of the bulkhead and bind a bit.
I don't think you can use the stock Xray open end ball cups as you are right, they will hit the bulkhead. Personally, I am using Tamiya flouride 5x5mm ball studs with Tamiya closed end ball cups. That is simply because that is what I had in my box. You can use 35 or 40mm links.
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:11 PM   #310
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You should be able to get away with just these parts. It may help to place a 2mm shim behind the ball end to make sure it doesn't hit the bulkhead. I also dremeled some material away from the bulkhead to help straighten out the link, although I don't think the angle affects anything.

XRA302655 - Ball Ends
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...10mm%20%282%29

XRA302612 - Tie Rods
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20T6%20%282%29

XRA302665 - Ball Cups
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Hole%20%284%29
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:59 PM   #311
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
I don't think you can use the stock Xray open end ball cups as you are right, they will hit the bulkhead. Personally, I am using Tamiya flouride 5x5mm ball studs with Tamiya closed end ball cups. That is simply because that is what I had in my box. You can use 35 or 40mm links.
You can use the stock open balls ends that come with the car and the XRAY ball studs mentioned in Robbie's post. For using any of the XRAY ball cups I found it necessary to dremel about .5mm from the underside of it in order for the link action to move uninterrupted. See the attached image.
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RCAmerica/Xray,Hudy-imag0064.jpg  
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:05 PM   #312
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So is the team still running the hillbilly link with the new car? And what about cvd length?
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:22 PM   #313
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So is the team still running the hillbilly link with the new car? And what about cvd length?
Everyone is still trying to figure out the new car. So far I was able to transfer over the same setup from the 2010 to the 2011 car and it is competitive with it. So this is my base and now I can begin testing different settings with the new car.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:23 PM   #314
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Hi guys, everyone needs to try the H1 and H2 camber links in the front. Paul and I tried and ran them at the Halloween race. I picked up 2 tenths 10.3 to 10.1. Paul went the same speed but said he would stick with them. We ran them in the low long spot on the tower with 2mm shims under the link. Run the H1 on the left and the H2 on the right. Please post feedback here.

Thank Drew
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:02 PM   #315
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Drew what do you mean by h1 and h2 my links say L1 ans L2??
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