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Old 02-10-2011, 03:11 AM   #691
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Anyone who was at the Snowbirds care to share their setup with us? I was told there was at least one 417 in the stock A-main.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:06 PM   #692
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I just tested roche Spool cup in my friend Trf416/417 Spool. they work without any problem. But i use 46mm bone for front.

Who likely to break the kits spool cup, can use it...

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Tamiya TRF417-bd02_417.jpg  
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:26 PM   #693
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
I just tested roche Spool cup in my friend Trf416/417 Spool. they work without any problem. But i use 46mm bone for front.

Who likely to break the kits spool cup, can use it...

KS,

I'd like to try it out but I worry either the pin will break or corner entry would be stiffer (understeer). Btw, How much is it?
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:19 PM   #694
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KS,

I'd like to try it out but I worry either the pin will break or corner entry would be stiffer (understeer). Btw, How much is it?
so far i use it in my car never have pin break problem...

i dont know if it'll cause understeer or not ...
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:44 AM   #695
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What is the thickness of the 417 chassis? Do you think it is too soft?
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:20 PM   #696
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The thickness of the lower deck ( chassis ) is 2.25 mm i think.

Ok, I have a question please, im going racing tomorow, finished building my 417 a week ago, but what I dont get is the spacer on the front toe block ( 1C front, 1C rear ).
On most setup sheets I see 0.5 mm under the front 1C ( FF ) and the on the rear 1C ( FR ) I see 1mm. But in the instruction manual, when building my car, it says to put a 3 mm shim on the Front Rear 1C.
What am i suposed to do ? Im just trying to understand how does the spacer under the front toe block works .
Thanks
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:04 PM   #697
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When the toe block is flipped at front-rear, the 3mm spacer gets it level with a non-flipped block. So 3mm on a flipped block is effectively 0mm.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:41 AM   #698
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When the toe block is flipped at front-rear, the 3mm spacer gets it level with a non-flipped block. So 3mm on a flipped block is effectively 0mm.
Exactly^ Rear block is flipped, causing need for spacer.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:51 AM   #699
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What is the difference in height, if any with the split blocks?

Do you still run the same spacer under them at the front?
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:22 AM   #700
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Quote:
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What is the difference in height, if any with the split blocks?

Do you still run the same spacer under them at the front?
No difference to the standard blocks in height.

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Old 02-13-2011, 02:40 AM   #701
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Had my first run with the 417 today and i must say it is better than the 416x.
i ran the standard kit set up and it worked great.
One think new we are running are the Roche spring retainers they are a bit larger in diameter than the Tamiya and work great with HPI springs.

Rhys
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:16 AM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
Had my first run with the 417 today and i must say it is better than the 416x.
i ran the standard kit set up and it worked great.
One think new we are running are the Roche spring retainers they are a bit larger in diameter than the Tamiya and work great with HPI springs.

Rhys
Yes i agree i have been running the Roche retainers for quite some time now
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:45 AM   #703
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Hello,

Today I ran my TRF417 for the first time ( same as crabboy ), I must say that compared to my HB cyclone, it is MUCH nicer to drive and also easier to drive with a standar/comon setup.
Grip wise was very good, I had a tiny bit of traction rolling at the end of the last race but on the previous races, grip was very good.
My main problem was mid-corner steering... Initial steering was fine, exit was good but mid-corner steering was lacking. I had to slow down more to get the car around the curve. On-power mid corner steering was ok, but off power ( mainly during a hairpin ), mid-corner steering was missing.

-My question : how could I increase mid corner steering ?
-Side question : What is the difference between longer/shorter camber links ?
-Final question : Why are their more people using anti-dive in front these days ? What does it do ?

Thank you very much
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:58 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hello,

Today I ran my TRF417 for the first time ( same as crabboy ), I must say that compared to my HB cyclone, it is MUCH nicer to drive and also easier to drive with a standar/comon setup.
Grip wise was very good, I had a tiny bit of traction rolling at the end of the last race but on the previous races, grip was very good.
My main problem was mid-corner steering... Initial steering was fine, exit was good but mid-corner steering was lacking. I had to slow down more to get the car around the curve. On-power mid corner steering was ok, but off power ( mainly during a hairpin ), mid-corner steering was missing.

-My question : how could I increase mid corner steering ?
-Side question : What is the difference between longer/shorter camber links ?
-Final question : Why are their more people using anti-dive in front these days ? What does it do ?

Thank you very much

I add one more question:

Why are almost all pro drivers are not using guards that prevent lipo is out of place? In all cars, Tamiya, Xray, Yokomo,...

TKS
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:16 AM   #705
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I also race my 417 yesturday,, TQ and won the spec stock class.
may even have set the fastest lap time for spec.. I drove the 416x then the
417 I set the 417 up just like the 416x and the 417 was easyer and faster
with the same body and tires.. This car only thing I need is less steering into an turn and more out of the turn on power. but the car is great to drive
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