TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Horizon is supose to have the parts, but the 64p spur gear number came up as the stock 88t. The number is on Losi's site, but comes up as 88t both online and horizon's database.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Try these...

A-3950 108T, 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley (XXX-S) 5.00
A-3952 118T, 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley (XXX-S) 5.00
A-3954 128T, 64P Spur w/Drive Pulley (XXX-S) 5.00

KenSmith

iTrader: (2)

I was mistaken. Horizon does not yet have the new 64P available for order. I entered the stock numbers (which were not correct) and almost ordered the wrong ones.
I spoke with Horizon and they should be getting them online in the next week or so. Stay tuned. I will be one of the first to order as all of my TC pinions are 64, and I have not heard good things about the adapters.
Ken

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Well they should be in the database software for the LHS's. They usually have them on the database before they go online... But not always...

They must be fixing it, as online it comes up as "not found" when before i was finding the 88t spur.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Dave- I have been running the MF spur gear adapter since it was in the testing stages and I haven't run across one that wobbled. Could it be your spur gear? Matt is more than fair with his products. If it's a defective one send it back in and let him have the chance of correcting a mistake rather than bash his line and you never brought it to his attention.

Ty

iTrader: (32)

Everyone at my track runs foams on carpet, but I want to try some rubber tires. What Sorex compound do you guys recommend for front and/or rear, what kind of inserst and what kind of wheels?

Also, do need to run the one-way to make Paul Lemieux's setup for carpet with rubber tires most effective. What changes need to be made for running the diff up front?

Anyone know about titanium inner hinge pins from Lunsford? Those steel ones weigh a ton.

Thanks in advance?

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

ty...sorex 24s.....or 24 and 28...whatever feals best to you....the lemiux setup is pretty good...if you dont have a one way, go to 2 deg of rear toe, and run 2 def of caster....that is the way i like mine.....

stlnlst...i had one of those addapors..and agree with dave.....the thing sucked...i could not run it...the hole in the center was not in the right place....it was out of wack by .07....you vould measure it....mine went back to my lhs....with much fight i might add...

dave....are you running the losi now?????if so what are you running for a setup????i got a pretty good one for a diff, but the oneway pretty much screwed me...now i am lost...here is my diffsetup.. front...black losi spring, 60 wt oil, stock camber, and shock location, ride hieght, 5mm every thing else is stock...2 deg caster, no kick...sorex 28, hpi red

rear... shock location stock, oil 60, piston, 56, losi purple spring, camber in the longest position....2 deg rear toe 1 deg camber, sorex 24, hpi red

i want to mess with droop, and i might go lower in spring...like purple-blue.....i was running soft and the car kept dumping the front....anyhelp would be great.......

on pavement, i ran the rosetti setup, it was great.....but on carpet, the car just unloads the front....

later, matt

psycho

Anyone running Shimizu 27's for asphalt? One of the top drivers at my local track recommended them, but I've never used them. I normally run Yokomo Sprint mediums, so I'm interested in a comparison between the two.

Doug Gaut

I bought one of the spur gear adapters and after installing it I found that the gear mounting area itself was fine but where the belt runs is out of round. You can see the belt move up and down when the car is running. I went ahead and ran it this weekend but it seemed like I had to increase the tension on the belt to keep it from skipping too much. Could this out of round have been causing the increased skipping effect or was it the awesome Sorex tires I just tried?

Ty

iTrader: (32)

I called Lunsford and they have a complete titanium hingepin set that retails for $19.95 and the part number is 3072. It should lighten things a bit.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

doug...that is the same problem i had with mine...the gear part is machined wrong....i think the part is jjunk....but that is just me...

Dave Kurschner

STLNST - I don't seem to have a personal relationship with Matt Francis. And frankly he probably has very little to do with the production of Trinity aluminum parts. The design concept of that part is great but the quality control is horrible. I went to our LHS and looked at their entire stock of this part. Every single one of them had runout in them. I took one in the package to my work and measured it on a video measuring system (that's the industry I work in) and the hole in the center that holds the bearing is off centered by .01" from the gear teeth. That's very much in terms of drive-train. The one that I measured was the most centered adapter of all the ones that my LHS had in stock. I have several of the other MF trinity pieces and they are quite nice. But the gear adapter is something to stay away from until they figure out how to make it more consistantly.

nitrorcfan

Has anyone installed the Matt Francis low roll center blocks on the XXX-s? If so, how'd your installation go?

I installed a pair last night and looked back at the Xtreme article and it was very helpful. However I could use some help with the following:

The package came with a two set screws and I was unable to screw it in because there was some excess metal and when I removed it the screw wouldn't even start. I don't see why it is needed. Does anyone know?

I modified the front and rear bumpers to remove the excess material since the A-Arms are lower, however, it seems more difficult to get my droop where I want it without the bumper flexing.

I sanded the chassis to allow the arms to fall, however, how much do you really need to sand?

For the most part the installation was more time consuming then anything. I'd like to see a front and rear bumber made so that no cutting/trimming would be involved.

Now for testing. I kept my same setup.
80wt f/r, Blug congo on the front with #57 piston. Shocks on the outside hole, camber link stock, droop 1 and camber -1., 4 Deg caster blocks, 2 deg kickup, Sway bar

Purple losi rear, stock camber link, camber -1, stock hubs, droop 3, 80wt oil , piston (orange), sway bar, shocks on the outside hole and stock location on bottom arm. 0 deg kickup

Track - small and tight carpet. Running Purple double purple.

Before installing I had a small push but glued. I wanted better turn in so I opted for the low roll center. However, afterwards the car pushed and my front sway bar now rests on the universals.

I've made some changes to the shock oil and piston to test, however, I haven't had the chance yet.

When checking droop, do you check it with the sway bar on or off. If one or the other why?

Also, when building the Losi shocks I pull out the shaft and it sucks it back in. I understand this is normal, however, sometimes the left or right shock will be shorter then the other. Do you compinsate this difference by either increasing or shorting the lenght of the shock and then check the droop?

Anyone else have a similar problem or care to comment on the low roll center blocks.

Dave Kurschner

I installed the MF blocks as well. The set screws do 2 things from what I can tell. The first is that they are supposed to take up any slop side to side. But I don't see any slop with our without the set screw so i don't think that's an issue. The best part about them is that they hold the hinge pins in the car when you are removing the pivots and A-arms so you don't lose your shims. I wouldn't lose sleep over it if you can't get them to screw in.

I was going to use them in the low roll-center setup when I noticed all of the work that had to be done. I hadn't driven the car with the higher roll center so I didn't think it made sense to modify the car without trying it first. As far as dremmeling/sanding away the chassis, basically you need to remove enough material so that you can get whatever amount of droop that you desire. You might also want to check if your arms bind as you lift them up. I saw a guy dremmel a small dip in his chassis by the end of the arms so that he could lift them higher without the arms binding agains the chassis.

I think that Losi should have included the droop screw mounts on the chassis instead of the bumper. It would have been easy to do and keep the same design of the car. perhaps they'll do it in a product update down the road sometime. But droop really just relies on gravity pulling the arms down until it stops. Unless you are preloading your springs, the flex shouldn't matter too much as it probably won't flex with just the weight of the wheel and suspension arm resting on it.

You'll have to do something about your swaybar rubbing as well. Perhaps use longer links to mount it to the arm or put a bend in it to clear the dogbone like AE did on the TC3. You should check droop with the swaybar attached. If your swaybar restricts your suspension from reaching its droop setting, then the swaybar has now become your new droop setting. Swaybars should not bind or limit suspension travel in any way.

ChadK

Dave-Are you running foam or rubber tires? If you are using rubber I would be interested in knowing what you are using for a setup on the car.