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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-28-2011, 12:48 PM   #36121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max K View Post
If you have tried the different positions for the battery on a standard car. the forward position makes the car pushy and easy to drive. If you move the battery back then the car is twitchy and loose. Lipo and the weight of the cars have changed setup dramatically. I used to run a super stiff rear end with a soft front end. Now its exactly the opposite. So I would imagine it will change how the new cars are going to be designed.
Yes, it has. For me I use to run soft front but that doesn't work anymore.
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:45 PM   #36122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I have tried different battery positions and found whenever we moved the batteries more forward the car would get more loose. 15 years ago when the only class running was pan car it was all about getting as much weight to the rear of the car to help keep the rear more planted.
Which car Gadgt.?
And do you have scales to see what the front / rear weight bias is ?

Forward on my 12R5 is always better.
I saw no benefit in rear weight bias, not with on power grip, or corner speed.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:04 PM   #36123
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What is the minimum ROAR ride height for a 1/12 scale? is it 3mm or 4mm?
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:07 PM   #36124
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
What is the minimum ROAR ride height for a 1/12 scale? is it 3mm or 4mm?
3mm for 12th

4mm for WGT

5mm for TC
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:24 AM   #36125
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Which car Gadgt.?
And do you have scales to see what the front / rear weight bias is ?

Forward on my 12R5 is always better.
I saw no benefit in rear weight bias, not with on power grip, or corner speed.
Well lets see...started with a Bolink Eliminator 10, then on to the 10L, then 10LW, 10LS, 12LW, 12LS, EV10, Trinity Reflex 12, HPI 10GW, 12LC, 12L3, Carpet Knife, Darkside 1/12th, and the DB12R through CH12. In several of those I had options to move the battery around and found the car always had bettter grip with the batteries more to the rear. The Darkside car I ran I even had to use the 0 degree caster block to tame down the front. In the case of the BMI cars the battery did move more forward from the DB12R to the DB12RR and gain rear grip...but that was largely due to the longer rear pod giving the rear suspension more leverage on the shock. The difference I notice though might be in the surface. Out here we only run on asphalt and most of those years were on untreated asphalt go grip was pretty low. Though the Darkside and all my BMI cars have ran on very sticky treated asphalt.
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:53 AM   #36126
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I can tell you that even a small change in polar moment of inertia can make a noticeable difference in a 1/12th scale. Not in all corners, but VERY noticeable in some. I did some experimenting with a 4 cell T bar car a few years back. It had a couple different ways of mounting the cells. One holder had them out a bit further, one more in, same fore/aft weight distribution either way. The results:

Most of the track, the car felt exactly the same. But right in front of the drivers stand was a fast right, left, right chicane. Batteries out, the first right was wide open but the quick flip of the wheel to the left would induce double steer and force me to back off. Batteries in, it was full punch, on the line and perfectly stable. And again, this was a very small change in mass distribution. Lower moment of inertia will give faster direction changes and be more stable when making those changes.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:06 AM   #36127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well lets see...started with a Bolink Eliminator 10, then on to the 10L, then 10LW, 10LS, 12LW, 12LS, EV10, Trinity Reflex 12, HPI 10GW, 12LC, 12L3, Carpet Knife, Darkside 1/12th, and the DB12R through CH12. In several of those I had options to move the battery around and found the car always had bettter grip with the batteries more to the rear. The Darkside car I ran I even had to use the 0 degree caster block to tame down the front. In the case of the BMI cars the battery did move more forward from the DB12R to the DB12RR and gain rear grip...but that was largely due to the longer rear pod giving the rear suspension more leverage on the shock. The difference I notice though might be in the surface. Out here we only run on asphalt and most of those years were on untreated asphalt go grip was pretty low. Though the Darkside and all my BMI cars have ran on very sticky treated asphalt.
Since we are running 1s lipo now, not 4, or 6 round cells.
I should have clarified which 1s lipo car are you running

No matter the surface, my 12r5 prefers more front weight, than rear.
From low grip asphalt, to high grip carpet, the base setup is virtually the same, tires tune in the grip.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:55 AM   #36128
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Round cells or LiPos I've been hearing that on this forum for years now and personally just haven't found it to hold true. I should have also mentioned the F103 since that went from a round cell to a LiPo and people running those lost a lot of rear grip in the transition. Many people ended up adding weight back on the car to try and get rear grip.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:01 AM   #36129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Round cells or LiPos I've been hearing that on this forum for years now and personally just haven't found it to hold true. I should have also mentioned the F103 since that went from a round cell to a LiPo and people running those lost a lot of rear grip in the transition. Many people ended up adding weight back on the car to try and get rear grip.
Interesting.
I run a 1s lipo with the F-103 as well.
Have not lost any grip, and noticed an increase in corner entry and mid corner speed.
No setup changes since the 90's on that car
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Old 07-29-2011, 12:17 PM   #36130
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Probably because your running 1s...that is quite a power loss from 6 cell NiMh. Look back through F103 thread to around the time of transition to LiPo and you'll see a number of post on people losing grip.

Also an increase in corner speed reinforces what I am saying...people here are saying moving the battery more forward makes the car more pushy which will decrease corner speed.
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:09 PM   #36131
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Probably because your running 1s...that is quite a power loss from 6 cell NiMh. Look back through F103 thread to around the time of transition to LiPo and you'll see a number of post on people losing grip.

Also an increase in corner speed reinforces what I am saying...people here are saying moving the battery more forward makes the car more pushy which will decrease corner speed.
I haven't looked into moving the 1s around for the 103, seems good as is.
With a 10.5 boosted it is anything but slow.
Most of the guys I run against in the "Open Class" of the UF1 series are running 2s 13.5 !

But this is a 12th scale thread, so we can discuss F1's elsewhere
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:43 AM   #36132
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C.Andy’s 1/12th scale conversion kit

interesting motor pod





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Old 07-30-2011, 07:17 AM   #36133
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WOW this is a really cool idea. Is there a performance increase? Is this available for purchase or a one off?
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:29 AM   #36134
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It's interesting but it looks like you have to swap shims to change gear mesh. That means gear range will be limited, changes will also slightly change wheelbase and generally be a pain in the rear. No thank you.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:32 AM   #36135
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On another note, that is a big slab of molded CF in the back of that thing. Very nice. I wouldn't be surprised if we start seeing more and more molded CF parts in the years to come.
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