Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

On the asphalt car, we've been trying to raise the inner camber links to make up for lowering the bulkheads from the stock location. The USA spec towers have a higher camber link location. That's why they're being used a lot on the asphalt car. The car Weylin ran in Vegas was a rubber tire car (towers included) with the foam chassis. (For the stiffness and probably for the rear toe.) I'm really just going off of what he had on his car. I haven't had the chance to run the EC on rubber tires on carpet yet.

matt_h

thanks Jon, you mentioned toe? does the foam have more or less inboard toe?

Matt

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

The foam car has less rear toe with the standard alloy pivot blocks. It's about 1.5º instead of 2º.

MattW

If you've already got a rubber spec car, it might be worth getting a foam. Remember you get a diff for the front instead of a spool.

Personally i haven't ever tried the foam 2.5mm chassis in the UK, and i don't think any of the others have that i know of anyway.

matt_h

Matt, cheers, i forgot about the diff!

It will be used solely for indoor, i'm really pleased with how the standard one is going on tarmac.
At least if i got the foam i would have every option to play with.
I would, however, still be interested as to the reason Weylin used the rubber spec....

Matt

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

The foam spec car would be way too stiff for rubber tires. I think he felt the rubber car had just a little too much flex for carpet, so he went with the thicker chassis but that's it. As for why he went with the rubber tire towers, they probably just worked better for him. The camber link locations on the foam spec towers were probably too high for his setup on that track. You could try both yourself and see which ones work better for you on your track.

matt_h

I'm sold!
Definately rubber top deck on foam chassis, then mess with camber links.
I do appreciate your help guys, i'm a bit clueless to carpet set-up and the info will be of great use

Matt

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

I've run the USA spec towers and all with rubber tires, regular 2mm spec on rubber tires, and 2mm w/ foam towers, etc. all on carpet.

I honestly think the regular 2mm is fine on carpet unless you race at a higher traction place. Using the thicker 2.5mm lower and thinner topdeck was the best combo I could find and run consistant with.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Wow! I acutally helped someone with a carpet question!

Glad I could help.

MAD1

Opps....I feel so Blonde!

Horst Kroll

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

The foam spec car with the asphalt top deck works well on med bite carpet tracks. The only thing that I really changed was the pivot blocks. Instead of the purple one's use the old MI2 black plastic one's in order to get an increase in rear toe. Leading up to the Vegas race I practiced quite a bit with the foam spec car (track had traction). I was thinking of going back to the 2mm chassis but I think that I will stick with the 2.5

matt_h

What will i need to do to the plastic ones to get the extra toe, and how much toe in total?

matt

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Just order the Mi2 plastic pivot blocks (sorry, don't have the part number right now.) If you mount them with the ridge (you'll see what I mean when you get them) to the inside, I believe that should give you 2.5º on the foam chassis. Also the hinge pins are .5mm higher in the plastic mounts than the alloy ones so you'll want to lower your roll enter by .5mm to match the alloy blocks.

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

I run the complete rubber car with a oneway on carpet all the time until the bite becomes med-high, that's when I switched to the 2.5mm chassis to get rid of some bite. The Mi2EC makes a lot of traction in its stock form, which is why we sometimes struggle on foam. I ran the asphalt towers because that's what I've always run on my rubber car, and on the back of my foam car I even ran the asphalt camber link locations. I've never messed with the carpet tower on rubber. I have raised the front camberlink before on the asphalt tower in some circumstances, such as at the Reedy race I believe I raised the front camber link 2mm to compensate for the lowered diffs. However on my rubber carpet setup apparently that was not necessary, I dont think that car could have been improved.

If you're running stock or 19t on med/high bite, I would run the 2.5mm chassis with aluminum blocks, if you're running mod with the 2.5mm chassis on rubber tires with similar traction you may want to get the plastic blocks which will give you about 2.5º toe in (???, I say this because the plastic blocks on the old car you could get 3º or 1.5º, the aluminum blocks were 2º, and the alum. blocks on the EC carpet spec chassis give you 1.5º, since the plastic blocks with 3º on the old car were 1º more than aluminum....... you get 2.5º toe with plastic blocks on the carpet spec chassis, PHEW!). But if the traction you plan on running on isn't ever close to high bite you can probably just run the 2mm chassis, I think it's easier to setup a car with. If you did need it stiffer you could run the carpet topdeck with the asphalt chassis.

When I went to the stiffer chassis, it was because I expected vegas to be super high bite like most national carpet races are. The traction was only med/high or less, I would have been fine on the 2mm chassis there. When I went to the 2.5mm I lowered all the hinge pins and shock towers to compensate for the thicker chassis. But lowering the shock towers was tedious. So I hope this was long enough to answer everyone questions .

matt_h

But you didnt say about the................only joking, thanks alot. a great help

Maybe i should have mentioned i will be running stock or 19t

Matt