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Thanks man

Neil Rabara

There have been some problems with synthesized receivers and chain linked fences. Something about the RF signal bouncing and distorting. With the synthesized receiver on a higher position in the car, it would help with better reception. Crystal receivers are tuned specifically for a freq, and not experience the same problems. Case in point: Tamiya America R&D track (Reedy Race venue) has a waist high chain link fence around the track, and another 12 foot high chain link fence around the track compound. There is alot of RF signal bouncing causing significant interference. What alot of people have done at this particular track was to go to 27Mhz which has less chance of interference. The 75mhz synthesized, and some freq's of 75mhz crystal have had bad reception problems.

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

OK, thanks for the info.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Ooops-missed ths one. Call me tonight on my cell. Its been a long weekend-week with wife sicker than sick!!

Ray

evaa

iTrader: (7)

i use a 9550 futaba servo, so what i did when i converted ny FOC to short arms is, i screwed the servo mount on the second hole, then instead of the servo ears in front, i put them behind the mount, then screwed them in from the outside, not the midle of the chasis as u usually do with the FOC, its like having your servo installed backwards, no problem with binding whatsoever.

T-Bag-R

Neil, Thanks so much for you advice. Like I said before it has been about 15 years since I have picked up a transmiter. If the internet was around then I might be a factory team driver. I have a Kyosho Ultima Pro that I could not get rid of the glitching problems. I took it to 3 hobby shops where I used to live and thy were as dumb founded as I was. Don't mean to gush but, Thanks Man

Neil Rabara

No problem. I'm glad I could help.

Pace72

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

this past week-end i have raced my Xray FK for the second time....and my car was on rail!! where i race we have one really fast racer who run an HPI pro4...a lot of racer say if you can beat him...it s because your car is really good!! we run on carpet with stock motors!! for me it was a really good challenge.....

guess what....my xray was able to win the main and set the fastest lap at every round of qualification and in the main too!! i have miss the TQ by .5 of a seconde but in my best qualification i have a wreck with a lap car that it cost me around 2 secondes!! i think it s not so bad!!

i feel so good about this car!!

Pace

Neil Rabara

Good job Pace. It's great to see enthusiasm like that. The trick is to go faster.

Andrew Swanson

Trace Racing-

I can answer for greg as i filled out the setups on my tsn while he was writing his race report. The problem is the notes section on mytsn isnt big enough to write it all out.

Greg and I measure our droop by removing the wheels from the car and placing the car flat on a tweak board or flat surface.

next make sure none of the screws are sticking out the bottom of the chassis (they shouldnt be but double check) and also watch out for the front lower bumper sits slightly below the chassis so set the car so the front lower bumper barely hangs off the edge of your board.

next grab your ride height guage and slide it under the arm by the outer hinge pin.

if you are running kick up or anti squat make sure to measure from the lowest point on the arm.

or if you have a droop guage like the yokomo 2n1 ride height droop guage or the losi droop guage you can measure from the bottom of the chassis to the same place on the arm and it will read the same but I reccomend having the car on a flat surface to make sure its as equal as possible.



As far as anti squat adding more anti squat or more angle will give your car more on power traction but will also make it push on power exiting the corner.


greg like low roll center in the rear with 0 squat and i liked mid roll center with 0 squat

and in front we both ran mid roll center but i ran 1.5 degrees of kick.

hope that helped.

Mad Mackem

iTrader: (12)

I have a question relating to droop that may have been asked before. The setup book that came with the FOC edition recommends droop settings for the pillow ball setup. Should this change for the C hub suspension and are the droop settings different if you use short arms?

Andrew Swanson

droop is droop it just comes down to where you measure it at from my racing experience its good to get comfertable with your way of doing it and stick with that way. so it is easier for you and more comfterable feeling known that you do it the same way all the time.

as far as long/short arm = no its the same but with pillowball it depends where you measure from.

hope that helps

AdR|aN

You can d/l the stock setting for C Hub (short/long) on either www.teamxray.com or www.mytsn.com (you have to be a VIP member first).

Neil Rabara

Yes, the droop settings will be different from the PB suspension, to the Chub. And yes the droop settings will change again when you go to the shorter arms vs the longer arms.

rough512

iTrader: (12)

Hi, I'm still running the PB suspension on the first T1. I'm contemplating on converting to the short-arm C Hub suspension too but due to the cost involved, I plan to convert in stages. Our LHS don't have the conversion kit (somebody mentioned it here).

I plan to convert first the front end. From PB to the short arm C hub. Rear will remain on PB for the meantime. What kind of improvement can I expect?

I really appreciate the steering the PB + one way I currently have. I still doubt that it can get better still but I want to try anyway. This is the only car I've driven which responds to minute steering corrections into the corners. If the Chubs can improve on that then convert I will. I already have the front shock tower for the C-hub conversion as well as the oneway, 1.77 ratio pulleys, solid layshaft.

If I do convert totally to short arms, how (scale of 1-10, 10 being that of the FK) will my old T1 compare with the FK?