Xray T1
#5776
Originally posted by protc3
ok guys,i just wanted to let you know that my new chassis kit has been tested and proven.it is unbelievable.they are going to be available friday.the price is going to be $79.99 plus shipping.here is a pic of the aqua kit.it is going to be available in standard black,titanium color,blue and aqua.other colors will follow.
ok guys,i just wanted to let you know that my new chassis kit has been tested and proven.it is unbelievable.they are going to be available friday.the price is going to be $79.99 plus shipping.here is a pic of the aqua kit.it is going to be available in standard black,titanium color,blue and aqua.other colors will follow.
#5779
hey, what shock oil weight do u recomend for pink springs all round.
im running on a large asphalt track with a big sweeper at the end of the straight.
and anyone got any tips to get heaps of corner speed cose there is this big meet on the weekend and tomorrow im going to the track to practise and set up my car, and i havnt really had any set up experiance.
thanks
im running on a large asphalt track with a big sweeper at the end of the straight.
and anyone got any tips to get heaps of corner speed cose there is this big meet on the weekend and tomorrow im going to the track to practise and set up my car, and i havnt really had any set up experiance.
thanks
#5780
Tech Adept
Originally posted by lawndoggie
How are you going to get the bearing to stay on the bulkhead?
How are you going to get the bearing to stay on the bulkhead?
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Perhaps allignment of the layshaft might be an issue. Normally the bearings are pretty good and last a long time if it's assembled correctly.
Perhaps allignment of the layshaft might be an issue. Normally the bearings are pretty good and last a long time if it's assembled correctly.
#5781
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,784
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Matt04,
run 30wt oil with the adjustable shock pistons at every track you go to. this is all i ever run. as for a setup for eastern creek:
with 63mm tires
front
30wt oil, pistons set to 3holes closed(hardest)
red x-ray springs
outer holes on the suspension arm and shock tower
5mm ride height
2mm droop
ellegi 40rear (trued to 25mm wide)
3 degrees kickup
heaviest swaybar
3 degrees caster
standard rollcenter hole for top arm on shock tower
oneway diff
rear
30wt oil, pistons set to 3hole open, 1hole closed
light purple x-ray springs
middle hole on shock tower and lower arm
5mm ride height
4mm droop
ellegi 40rear(leave them at 26mm wide)
3 degrees kickup
heaviest swaybar
standard rollcenter position for top arm
2mm wheelbase clip at the front of the rear arms
2 degrees of toe in
ball diff set tight but not enough to turn the motor over
this is a twitchy but FAST setup, it has the speed to do 20laps but will require precise driving.
you could try 37fronts on the fronts to make it more stable but will probably need a slightly softer spring or lay the shock down a hole or 2 to get steering back.
will have to see what happens on the weekend
run 30wt oil with the adjustable shock pistons at every track you go to. this is all i ever run. as for a setup for eastern creek:
with 63mm tires
front
30wt oil, pistons set to 3holes closed(hardest)
red x-ray springs
outer holes on the suspension arm and shock tower
5mm ride height
2mm droop
ellegi 40rear (trued to 25mm wide)
3 degrees kickup
heaviest swaybar
3 degrees caster
standard rollcenter hole for top arm on shock tower
oneway diff
rear
30wt oil, pistons set to 3hole open, 1hole closed
light purple x-ray springs
middle hole on shock tower and lower arm
5mm ride height
4mm droop
ellegi 40rear(leave them at 26mm wide)
3 degrees kickup
heaviest swaybar
standard rollcenter position for top arm
2mm wheelbase clip at the front of the rear arms
2 degrees of toe in
ball diff set tight but not enough to turn the motor over
this is a twitchy but FAST setup, it has the speed to do 20laps but will require precise driving.
you could try 37fronts on the fronts to make it more stable but will probably need a slightly softer spring or lay the shock down a hole or 2 to get steering back.
will have to see what happens on the weekend
#5782
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,784
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
can ayone give me a direct link to where i can get the short arms for the x-ray from please.
Matt04,
rollout 29.5-30 with monster stock
i used the low ratio pulley belts aswell
Matt04,
rollout 29.5-30 with monster stock
i used the low ratio pulley belts aswell
#5783
Tech Rookie
To use the low ratio pulley set what other parts do i need to purchase?
stevent
stevent
#5784
dontfeelcold: best place is ashford hobbies.
stevent: you will not be able to use the one-way layshaft, so if you have that you will need a new layshaft
stevent: you will not be able to use the one-way layshaft, so if you have that you will need a new layshaft
#5785
Tech Regular
Originally posted by rcprix
the flange will act as a stopper to prevent the bearing from coming out on the side of the bulkhead nearest to the motor endbell. this is exactly how the T1 works till they put the plastic bearing holder on the evo 2. never had this problem on my T1 before, but since upgrading to the evo2 2 months ago, i've melted one on the last race i attended.
well maybe i did something wrong with the allignment. but come to think of it, this plastic bearing holder is not an eccentric one. it fits perfectly on the bulkhead right in the middle of the layshaft. i even tried to flick the layshaft with my finger without the belts installed and it spinned like it's not gonna stop. i'm not saying there's a flop on the design or something, please don't get me wrong.. i love this car! but i wonder why many owners are having problem with this part and like i said, i never had a problem on my old T1.
the flange will act as a stopper to prevent the bearing from coming out on the side of the bulkhead nearest to the motor endbell. this is exactly how the T1 works till they put the plastic bearing holder on the evo 2. never had this problem on my T1 before, but since upgrading to the evo2 2 months ago, i've melted one on the last race i attended.
well maybe i did something wrong with the allignment. but come to think of it, this plastic bearing holder is not an eccentric one. it fits perfectly on the bulkhead right in the middle of the layshaft. i even tried to flick the layshaft with my finger without the belts installed and it spinned like it's not gonna stop. i'm not saying there's a flop on the design or something, please don't get me wrong.. i love this car! but i wonder why many owners are having problem with this part and like i said, i never had a problem on my old T1.
Hmm someone at my local track told me that he had problem with the rear bulk head collapsing to each other... and told be to put reinforcement between the 2 wholes where you normally put the belt tensioner to "push" the bulk head apart.
I was thinking if he's right, and the bulk heads do collapse to each other, then the bearings on the layshaft most be under loads of pressure!? Not sure exactly why this is the case, but the solution is to put stearing rod between the 2 wholes on the bulkhead as mentioned earlier... My Evo2 is still new sitting in my room, so I don't really have experience... anyway.,. it doesn't hurt to try...
#5786
Hey guys,
Ok, I'm going to install the short arms on my EVO2. Do I need anything else to do this? Also, I'm running the blade type sway bar in the front. Can I still use this or do I have to switch to the wire type bar? Any help/instructions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Ok, I'm going to install the short arms on my EVO2. Do I need anything else to do this? Also, I'm running the blade type sway bar in the front. Can I still use this or do I have to switch to the wire type bar? Any help/instructions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
#5787
Originally posted by JCB
Hey guys,
Ok, I'm going to install the short arms on my EVO2. Do I need anything else to do this? Also, I'm running the blade type sway bar in the front. Can I still use this or do I have to switch to the wire type bar? Any help/instructions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Hey guys,
Ok, I'm going to install the short arms on my EVO2. Do I need anything else to do this? Also, I'm running the blade type sway bar in the front. Can I still use this or do I have to switch to the wire type bar? Any help/instructions would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Luis
#5789
Tech Addict
Scrad-You can try softer front spring.But remember to stand the shocks up
#5790
Originally posted by Alex Lopez
Scrad-You can try softer front spring.But remember to stand the shocks up
Scrad-You can try softer front spring.But remember to stand the shocks up