XRAY T3
06-27-2010, 11:49 AM
#2491
06-27-2010, 11:50 AM
#2492
Will a venom 50c lipo fit in the t3?
06-27-2010, 07:23 PM
#2494
The shims you want to space the arms are the 3mm x 7.5mm shims --
303131 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X0.4 (10)
303132 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X0.75 (10)
303133 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X1.15 (10)
303134 - Alu Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X1.5 (10)
Don't forget that you can also change your rear toe with different rear hubs - there are 1 degree left/right and 2 degree left/right hubs available in two different hardness - medium and hard.
303131 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X0.4 (10)
303132 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X0.75 (10)
303133 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X1.15 (10)
303134 - Alu Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X1.5 (10)
Don't forget that you can also change your rear toe with different rear hubs - there are 1 degree left/right and 2 degree left/right hubs available in two different hardness - medium and hard.
06-27-2010, 11:51 PM
#2496
Received the Spec-R short arms today, and their knuckles and uprights, the quality feels great, the plastics feel much like Hot Bodies parts, high in graphite.
Has anyone given them a try yet?
Word is they are 1mm shorter than kit Xray parts, When this was done by Tamiya and Yokomo their cars were immediately much more competitive, fingers crossed similar results with these guys.
I also grabbed one of their top decks, it seems quite a bit more torsionally flexy in the rear end, should be good for lower traction surfaces, and for high traction to prevent traction rolling.
Has anyone given them a try yet?
Word is they are 1mm shorter than kit Xray parts, When this was done by Tamiya and Yokomo their cars were immediately much more competitive, fingers crossed similar results with these guys.
I also grabbed one of their top decks, it seems quite a bit more torsionally flexy in the rear end, should be good for lower traction surfaces, and for high traction to prevent traction rolling.
06-28-2010, 01:52 PM
#2499
I try to start the front at 1.5 and tune the car then if I need alittle more steering I can go up towards 2.0
yesterday in the second round, I don't know if you saw, but my car was spinning/loose, that was 2.0 rear and the wear pattern was waaay near the inside. For the next round i went to about 1.8 and centered it and car was planted, my best run
06-28-2010, 05:53 PM
#2500
I adjust the rear using tire wear, with a new set i look at the wear pattern and center it using camber, within 1.5-2.0
I try to start the front at 1.5 and tune the car then if I need alittle more steering I can go up towards 2.0
yesterday in the second round, I don't know if you saw, but my car was spinning/loose, that was 2.0 rear and the wear pattern was waaay near the inside. For the next round i went to about 1.8 and centered it and car was planted, my best run
I try to start the front at 1.5 and tune the car then if I need alittle more steering I can go up towards 2.0
yesterday in the second round, I don't know if you saw, but my car was spinning/loose, that was 2.0 rear and the wear pattern was waaay near the inside. For the next round i went to about 1.8 and centered it and car was planted, my best run
Shoot me your cell number. I wanna send you a pic. Could you tell me what I should do?
06-28-2010, 06:13 PM
#2501
I'm itching to run something new and the T3 is in the running along with the HB TCX. I haven't heard alot of buzz with XRAY's latest ride. Is there some issues with this car that needs to be ironed out; I say that because I hear that the EXOTEK chassis for the T3 'spruces' this car up a bit.
I really don't have time to go through this whole thread page by page, but a few opinions from you guys would be greatly appreciated
I really don't have time to go through this whole thread page by page, but a few opinions from you guys would be greatly appreciated
06-28-2010, 06:27 PM
#2502
Exotec T3
Hey Jaybee, sorry I misssed the action last Saturay. I'm running the Exotec chassis on my car, haven't had a chance to compare the 2 chassis back to back. I picked it up just after the Hanger (carpet) ended, and used it for the first time at Fasttrax(asphalt) so no comparison to stock available. Didn't take long for it to get very close to the mod times while running 17.5 with no timing. It was planted, super easy to drive.
The overall finish is not as nice as the stock, maybe because I got one of the first chassis out but some straight sections of the chassis looks like it moved while being cut, I had to sand other parts to get it straight, and the countersunk holes where uneven-car still drive really well though. Your welcome to take it for a run around the track the next time I see you-Alvin
The overall finish is not as nice as the stock, maybe because I got one of the first chassis out but some straight sections of the chassis looks like it moved while being cut, I had to sand other parts to get it straight, and the countersunk holes where uneven-car still drive really well though. Your welcome to take it for a run around the track the next time I see you-Alvin
06-28-2010, 06:45 PM
#2503
Hey Jaybee, sorry I misssed the action last Saturay. I'm running the Exotec chassis on my car, haven't had a chance to compare the 2 chassis back to back. I picked it up just after the Hanger (carpet) ended, and used it for the first time at Fasttrax(asphalt) so no comparison to stock available. Didn't take long for it to get very close to the mod times while running 17.5 with no timing. It was planted, super easy to drive.
The overall finish is not as nice as the stock, maybe because I got one of the first chassis out but some straight sections of the chassis looks like it moved while being cut, I had to sand other parts to get it straight, and the countersunk holes where uneven-car still drive really well though. Your welcome to take it for a run around the track the next time I see you-Alvin
The overall finish is not as nice as the stock, maybe because I got one of the first chassis out but some straight sections of the chassis looks like it moved while being cut, I had to sand other parts to get it straight, and the countersunk holes where uneven-car still drive really well though. Your welcome to take it for a run around the track the next time I see you-Alvin
06-28-2010, 07:12 PM
#2504
Top rod ends. And RPM ones for the front inner camber link because top ones wouldn't work with the camber link mod
You can see it in the pic I posted. As for advantages a longer camber link makes your car more stable. And since the link ends up getting dropped it gives you more steering.
As for a good starting set up I'm not sure. My car has so much changed stuff a set up from my car wouldn't really carry over that well. But try the kit set up is what I'd say
As for a good starting set up I'm not sure. My car has so much changed stuff a set up from my car wouldn't really carry over that well. But try the kit set up is what I'd say
06-28-2010, 11:54 PM
#2505
I am having a lot of problems with the diffs in my T3. I am using Xray ceramic balls, every time I rebuild I sand the diff rings and thrust bearing rims, I have tried both the Hudy diff grease and Tamiya ball diff grease (I ahave a lot left over from my TRF416), and I break them in correctly.
But every time I build them they seem a bit clicky, and are never as smooth as my Tamiya TRF diff was.
Any tips?
But every time I build them they seem a bit clicky, and are never as smooth as my Tamiya TRF diff was.
Any tips?