Power Supply 12 Volt -12amp ATX Conversion
#1
Power Supply 12 Volt -12amp ATX Conversion
Does any of you use a ATX Case Power Supply for powering your charging systems ?
My best friend is a electrical engineer , and he was over checking out my RC set up and looked at my charging station .
He simply asked , why are you not getting your 12 volts from a computer power supply ?
Well , with two of them sitting in a closet , i was all ears .
It will deliver 5 volt - 32 amps
it will deliver 12 volt -12 amps continuous .
I will imagine just about everybody has an old ATX case ( desk top computer box ) from an old computer laying around .
Here is the link to step be step instructions for this simple but effective power supply .
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
My best friend is a electrical engineer , and he was over checking out my RC set up and looked at my charging station .
He simply asked , why are you not getting your 12 volts from a computer power supply ?
Well , with two of them sitting in a closet , i was all ears .
It will deliver 5 volt - 32 amps
it will deliver 12 volt -12 amps continuous .
I will imagine just about everybody has an old ATX case ( desk top computer box ) from an old computer laying around .
Here is the link to step be step instructions for this simple but effective power supply .
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
Last edited by msbeckysboy; 08-28-2009 at 05:20 AM. Reason: link bad
#2
its good to have for bashing around then im sure you will get to a event and get pulled up as people cry there not earthed correctly
#3
It is a power supply for your charger .
Not a charger .
That plugs into the wall 120 volt ac current .
Is your computer not earthly grounded ?
I thought so .
Not a charger .
That plugs into the wall 120 volt ac current .
Is your computer not earthly grounded ?
I thought so .
#6
I have converted 2 power supplies now. I have one that does strickly +12V. Nice thing is it has two completely seperate 12V rails, one rated for 18A, and another for 12A. Lots of power there.
The other power supply I have kept the +5V rail available too. So now when I use it for operated my comm lathe, tire warmers and tire truer, I can use 5V, 7V, or 12V. The 5V rail is rated for 30Amps.
I de-soldered all the extra cables from the power supplythough, keeps tihngs alot neater.
Shawn.
The other power supply I have kept the +5V rail available too. So now when I use it for operated my comm lathe, tire warmers and tire truer, I can use 5V, 7V, or 12V. The 5V rail is rated for 30Amps.
I de-soldered all the extra cables from the power supplythough, keeps tihngs alot neater.
Shawn.
#7
Just in case some of you want to leave the original wiring connectors from the PSU in one piece;
#8
Tech Adept
they work well, do a search for how to convert as you need to put a resistor in the circuit so that they sense a load. Was using one, but started to buy industrial power supplies in a chinese market for cheap ($8 for 10 amp, $12/16.5 amp) so I now use those instead.
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
John
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
John
#9
I skipped the resistor part all together .
I installed a second fan in it,s place .
Another thought would be to put a low voltage auto light instead of the fan .
That is your lead to sense a load .
Like the cool blue one shown in the one for sale .
It is super simple -
brown wire goes with all the orange .
The grey and black for the LED . Or just do not use them at all .
The pink goes with the red wires .
green and one black is the power on switch for on off
The purple lead is not mentioned in the scematic build .
Except for the comtradiction that the grey lead is for the LED -
Later in the tips it says it is used for powering the LED .
Other than that , i capped it off along with the grey lead for the LED .
If the fans are turning ,it is on .
Greg
I installed a second fan in it,s place .
Another thought would be to put a low voltage auto light instead of the fan .
That is your lead to sense a load .
Like the cool blue one shown in the one for sale .
It is super simple -
brown wire goes with all the orange .
The grey and black for the LED . Or just do not use them at all .
The pink goes with the red wires .
green and one black is the power on switch for on off
The purple lead is not mentioned in the scematic build .
Except for the comtradiction that the grey lead is for the LED -
Later in the tips it says it is used for powering the LED .
Other than that , i capped it off along with the grey lead for the LED .
If the fans are turning ,it is on .
Greg
#10
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
They work good.
I stripped mine apart, de-soldered all the power cabling from the board
I then soldered a larger, thicker single cable to each of the points. Run out to a transfer box with female bullets in it.
You can get 3v, 5v and 12v. Handy for running motors in
Only problem i have with mine is you have to turn it off to plug something in otherwise the short circuit protection kicks in and you need to unplug from the wall.
On the main motherboard ATX cable keep the green wire. Connect it to a switch with any earth and you have power switch
I stripped mine apart, de-soldered all the power cabling from the board
I then soldered a larger, thicker single cable to each of the points. Run out to a transfer box with female bullets in it.
You can get 3v, 5v and 12v. Handy for running motors in
Only problem i have with mine is you have to turn it off to plug something in otherwise the short circuit protection kicks in and you need to unplug from the wall.
On the main motherboard ATX cable keep the green wire. Connect it to a switch with any earth and you have power switch