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Old 02-11-2010, 07:42 PM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by robk
As far as the front end lower arms shifting, I think I have a solution that might work. The problem looks like the 2 slots that run parallel to the 2 front end 4mm screws. I drilled the ends of the slots for a 3mm grub screw, and then tapped and installed like a 5mm long grub screw. This should lock down the front end by pinning the ends of the slots. It seems much more solid now, but I will have to track test it. Will post pics later.
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:24 PM
  #677  
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Is it me or is putting a silvercan/w stock wires(outta the box) into the rear pod a PITA.
Had to take the top plate offand bend the tabs a little.
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:15 PM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by GasGod
Is it me or is putting a silvercan/w stock wires(outta the box) into the rear pod a PITA.
Had to take the top plate offand bend the tabs a little.
Yeah, when we assembled Papo's car in that mad rush to make the main, disassembling the pod put us back a couple minutes.
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Old 02-13-2010, 03:27 AM
  #679  
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Guys,

I have 6 F1-09's here, myself and a colleague are building them for an event we're doing in April in a shopping centre.

We are using 540 type motors and wonder if anyone can advise what size pinion (64DP as using kit spur gear) to use? I know we're probably limited by the space available when the motor is furthest away on the mount from the spur.

Any advice welcome.

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:11 AM
  #680  
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Hi Dan

I use silver can motors what the club limits us too ! i run 48 dp i use a 75 spur and around a 18 pinion give or take a few teeth depending on the track this gives me a final ratio of 4.17 . if you look on the back of the instrctions it tells you 98 spur (kit) and 23 pinion witch works out at 4.26 final ratio ! I wouldnt say you will be far out with what it tells you
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:51 PM
  #681  
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Is there a known issue with the stock uprights ?
I broke 2 one with a slight brush of a pipe and another with a light hit.It seems they are made of plastic rather than a nylon composit like the t-brand.
Another racer also broke one with a light hit,the kits were both from the same batch so it may just be a random thing but all 3 broke exactly in the same place and in the same pattern of shearing-- weird.Another small PITA is the rear pod motor acsess and the spur hitting the rear link when trying to pull out the axle.
Other than that I love the performance/price point.Very smooth and predictable;we race silvercan.
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:37 AM
  #682  
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I just use tamiyas
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:50 PM
  #683  
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Default front rideheight

Does anyone have any idea what can be done to the f109 to adjust the front rideheight?
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:35 PM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by PAPOSWING
Does anyone have any idea what can be done to the f109 to adjust the front rideheight?
spacers between the arm and the spring

it makes the front springs arder though

or cut your tyres down
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
TRG front end

Is this an option you can buy. looks cool
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:02 AM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by HaraR40
Is this an option you can buy. looks cool
How much (why so expensive) and where ?



m.
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:30 PM
  #687  
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http://www.rc-trg.com/
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:32 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by PAPOSWING
Does anyone have any idea what can be done to the f109 to adjust the front rideheight?
You can remove about 2mm of material from the bottoms of the steering knuckles, and use a spacer on top of the knuckle to run smaller tires. That's about it, short of custom milling.
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:28 PM
  #689  
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Originally Posted by robk
You can remove about 2mm of material from the bottoms of the steering knuckles, and use a spacer on top of the knuckle to run smaller tires. That's about it, short of custom milling.
THANKS!!
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:44 PM
  #690  
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For anyone interested I have managed to fit the F60 body onto my F109 and will take pics once completed..hopefully later today..10.30am here in NewZealand...front and rear wing lined up perfectly and lucky they give you the extra pods if you need extra electronic room as F104 much narrower at the back and you need to place rear body posts in more ontop of the battery top plate but easy stuff really and then you cut off the old post holders as they get in the way of the body on the sides and I even managed to squeeze in my Havoc speed controller which isnt small so smaller electronics will be even easier..well worth it as way cooler than the factory body
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