TC3 Forum
Should i get the 2402 cvd's for front and rear? Do i need to use different bearings in the hubs with them?
Thanks
jB
Thanks
jB
Tech Regular
ASC2402 is listed as an NTC3 part, so probably the wrong length. The TC4 parts will fit #ASC3886 axles with #3888 or 31034 bones. MIP used to make steel ones, but apparently are discontinued.
However, I haven't noticed any performance advantage to using them. They weigh more than the plastic or aluminum. My personal preference is to use the stock plastic axles. Not just to reduce weight but when plastic bends, it also bends back. Aluminum wears faster and when both steel and aluminum bend, they stay bent causing a lot of extra vibration if you don't replace them. I only race 21.5 and 25.5 classes though. So unless you need the extra durability of steel or a wider axle, these probably aren't worth the extra cost.
The critical dimensions of these axles are exactly the same as the electric TC3 parts and they will work fine using only stock parts. The only difference is the threaded portion of the axle is slightly longer, which would allow you to use a thicker hex or spacers to widen your car a little if you want.
However, I haven't noticed any performance advantage to using them. They weigh more than the plastic or aluminum. My personal preference is to use the stock plastic axles. Not just to reduce weight but when plastic bends, it also bends back. Aluminum wears faster and when both steel and aluminum bend, they stay bent causing a lot of extra vibration if you don't replace them. I only race 21.5 and 25.5 classes though. So unless you need the extra durability of steel or a wider axle, these probably aren't worth the extra cost.
However, I haven't noticed any performance advantage to using them. They weigh more than the plastic or aluminum. My personal preference is to use the stock plastic axles. Not just to reduce weight but when plastic bends, it also bends back. Aluminum wears faster and when both steel and aluminum bend, they stay bent causing a lot of extra vibration if you don't replace them. I only race 21.5 and 25.5 classes though. So unless you need the extra durability of steel or a wider axle, these probably aren't worth the extra cost.
jB
Great info! Thank you. I am not going to run any classes, really just getting it running again for parking lots. I am trying to choose a motor. I want something reasonably fast for fun, but dont want to tear it apart....it has the composite drive shaft and plastic cups. Do you think 13.5 is too much or should i step it down to 17.5?
jB
jB
First time Associated TC3 owner :D
Greetings...to anyone who might happen upon this vintage thread. Haha! I was recently inspired by a couple of distant buddies to get a TC3 or TC4, and found this TC3 in a local Craigslist posting. I was able to trade my old Traxxas MJ Son-uva Digger for it, which was good, because I wasn't interested in it any longer, and the seller was looking for a monster truck for his nephew to play with. Mutually beneficial trade!
The previous owner never upgraded this, or ran it on it LiPo, and claims he never took it out in the rain. Regardless, it seems to be in good shape, for its age. One of my pals, who prefers nitro, sent me a free Team Associated SC700 brushless esc + Reedy 3300KV bl motor, back last summer, which was another reason I wanted a touring car, so I'd have something to put it in. I've got a TQi receiver coming in this evening, so I can get it on 2.4 GHz. In the coming months, it'll get a full body/wheel/tire makeover.
The previous owner never upgraded this, or ran it on it LiPo, and claims he never took it out in the rain. Regardless, it seems to be in good shape, for its age. One of my pals, who prefers nitro, sent me a free Team Associated SC700 brushless esc + Reedy 3300KV bl motor, back last summer, which was another reason I wanted a touring car, so I'd have something to put it in. I've got a TQi receiver coming in this evening, so I can get it on 2.4 GHz. In the coming months, it'll get a full body/wheel/tire makeover.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Did you take the wing off on purpose to slide the rear around when driving? Otherwise, you probably want the wing. It makes a bigger difference than you think.
He's right about the wing. Does matter often.
Are you planning to race it at a local track or just zoom?
TC3's are really good for the US Vintage Trans Am class: URL="http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html"]http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html[/URL]
This is my VTA set up if you are interested.
Are you planning to race it at a local track or just zoom?
TC3's are really good for the US Vintage Trans Am class: URL="http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html"]http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html[/URL]
This is my VTA set up if you are interested.
Good deal. Plenty of fun that way too! Tower Hobbies still sells a lot of TC3 parts. And, you can find them on ebay too.
Ok I've started running my TC3 again and I've been annoyed by the extant setup sheet which had plenty of useless info IMHO and missed plenty of info as well. And the blanks for writing were super tiny. So I modified it a little bit, by basically moving stuff around in Paint. I added the TC4 side braces because that's what I use. It is far from perfect but I figured it might be of use to someone here.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Ok I've started running my TC3 again and I've been annoyed by the extant setup sheet which had plenty of useless info IMHO and missed plenty of info as well. And the blanks for writing were super tiny. So I modified it a little bit, by basically moving stuff around in Paint. I added the TC4 side braces because that's what I use. It is far from perfect but I figured it might be of use to someone here.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
duhjun; great looking car & excellent deal. I wouldn't mind finding one like that myself.