R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

what about my post guys

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

i also suggest pre threading the screw holes for easier wrist action later.
i dont like the aluminium screws at all,well i do like the colours but they bend and strip too easily,and being in Asia,i've converted almost the whole car to metric(M3) screws.these are FAR stronger and it also offers more clamping force.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

the camber links should be equal.it's probably ur eyes when u see the asymmetrical shock towers.
How to make it smoother?well i think u should start with checking all the bearings(since u said it's a used car) there are possibililties that some bearings are shot.
u can sand the slots in the diff cases where the bearings sit.just lightly so that it doesn't clamp too hard on the bearings.
I dont know about the pitch of the gears but i dont think 48p 90T will fit the TC3.The pitch does not influence the ratio,so if u can fit whichever combo,that'll be it.

Rory

make sure your camber links are in the same holes on both the hubs (rear only) and the tower... as long as they are, and your camber is equal, the turnbuckles are the same length.

=MisFitz= NuKe

here take a look at what i have made.

Why Try?

Amg if your not going offroading sunday come to wynumm and take a look at my tc3 as all mods have been done.Also installed a 9x2 revolution motor and man it honks.

BIGDON18

iTrader: (72)

hey guys ,
i got my tc3 and iam hooked,,, so hook i did a traded for another one..

but i got a question ,, on the bearings with the teflon seals ,, what is the best thing to clean them with,, in my oval car i alway clean my bearing with injector cleaner and lube with zubie oil. well i know this i cant do with the seal type bearings and was woundering what i should use to clean the bearings with out taking the seals out every time.

BIGDON

=MisFitz= NuKe

well for weekly cleaning(or several weeks) I just use motor spray. but I have seen where that will corrode the bearings, although so far it has been ok on my car. Now, if there is a bunch of grit and @@!$ inside your bearings then you have no choice but to take the seal off to get it out.

Mark Mixon

iTrader: (3)

Any suggestions for aluminum front steering knuckles. I keep stripping the associated ones, and at 9 bucks a set, figure I should be able to replace them with a lasting aluminum replacement. Any experiences? Links?

Diva

iTrader: (20)

AMG, welcome to the TC3 club

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Here are your options.
You can buy aftermarket aluminum knuckles for the TC3 and
XXX-S made by aftermarket companies like, rc-square, gpm etc
or
Change to LOSI knuckles, less stripping and will give a better steering for your TC3 plus cheaper.

WHat I did, from stock knuckles, i got aftermarket Aluminum Knuckles by SQUARE, then later shift to the LOSI Knuckles and been smiling eversince.

But I will now go for the aluminum knuckles for the XXX-S made by square or jet.

Peace and happy racing!

Arun

I also had alluminum knuckles from megatech, and they were great (only 14.95), but I have since changed to the losi knuckles. I did at one point put metal 4-40 threads in them, but that became dubious, because I can find people who run the XXX-S who will basically give them away. When you buy Associated knuckles, you get the stupid rear uprights with them, but when you buy losi's, you get caster blocks. So every time a losi owner wants a caster block, they get steering knuckles. Many losi owners, consequently, have so many steering blocks they don't know what to do with them.

presure2

hey guys, ...so if i want to use the losi steering blocks, what mods are needed, if any?
thanks
manny

Bubblestc3

You really don't have to make adjustments other than making the tierods for the steering longer. If you don't do this, you will have excessive toe out on the front(about 3degrees on each side!).

PitCrew

Can somebody please post the formula for rollout.

I though you multiply the diameter times Pi, then divide by the FDR?