TC3 VTA Setup or Rubber Tire on Carpet
#2
tc3 vta
My tc3 is set up as follows.
Blue shock springs all in front and left rear
Silver on right rear
All shocks in the second from inside hole on top and the outer hole on arms
30 wt shock oil all around
2 degree blocks in rear
0 degrees toe in the front
droop screws all the way out
no sway bar front or rear
TQ tire traction compound in the blue can for rubber
I use a GTB with the Tekin 17.5 and this setup works well for our short track. The thing I have noticed most with this car on any track is it likes to be setup soft in the front and very soft in the rear. When I have tried running stiff it looses traction with those vta tires.
Blue shock springs all in front and left rear
Silver on right rear
All shocks in the second from inside hole on top and the outer hole on arms
30 wt shock oil all around
2 degree blocks in rear
0 degrees toe in the front
droop screws all the way out
no sway bar front or rear
TQ tire traction compound in the blue can for rubber
I use a GTB with the Tekin 17.5 and this setup works well for our short track. The thing I have noticed most with this car on any track is it likes to be setup soft in the front and very soft in the rear. When I have tried running stiff it looses traction with those vta tires.
#5
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
TC3 VTA set-up
Mach 51, check out the set-up sheets on the Associated website. Alan Leighton's from 1999 is a good start.
I run 40 wt shock oil, front sway bar, front droop at 6, rear droop at 4, 8 mm ride height, zero caster, 2 degrees kick-up, STD Ackerman, -1 degree camber front / rear, 1 degree front toe out, Blue springs in front, Green in rear & 4 cell battery at rear of tray.
FWIW this works for me but I am very new at RC racing.
I run 40 wt shock oil, front sway bar, front droop at 6, rear droop at 4, 8 mm ride height, zero caster, 2 degrees kick-up, STD Ackerman, -1 degree camber front / rear, 1 degree front toe out, Blue springs in front, Green in rear & 4 cell battery at rear of tray.
FWIW this works for me but I am very new at RC racing.
#6
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
my setup might be off a lil compared to most....
FRONT
2 deg caster
7.5 ride height
rear shock tower...outside hole...inside top hole ball stud
gold springs
25wt oil
#2 pistons
everything set to zero...toe-in,out,camber,.. ect
REAR
6.5 ride height
3 degree toe in
wheel adj...long
#2 pistons
20 wt oil
shock tower.....inside hole...inside top hole ball stud
green springs
novak 21.5 gtb...76/45...4.2222 fdr
orion 3600
Ragu tire sauce...all rear ....half front
FRONT
2 deg caster
7.5 ride height
rear shock tower...outside hole...inside top hole ball stud
gold springs
25wt oil
#2 pistons
everything set to zero...toe-in,out,camber,.. ect
REAR
6.5 ride height
3 degree toe in
wheel adj...long
#2 pistons
20 wt oil
shock tower.....inside hole...inside top hole ball stud
green springs
novak 21.5 gtb...76/45...4.2222 fdr
orion 3600
Ragu tire sauce...all rear ....half front
#8
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
VTA TC3
Good thread. I have been racing a TC3 Late Model on dirt oval for a couple of years and I just put together another TC3 for VTA. Since I have no experience, I only have observations and both are about tires. The spec tires are a hard compound with a soft insert, so tire compliance appears to be an issue. (I race karts as well and tire pressure is your biggest tuning tool.) A softer suspension setting makes tire compliance less of an issue. Does anyone else have ideas about the stiffness/flexibility of the spec tires?
Also, the tires seem to have a bit of built-in camber -- they appear to be a smaller diameter on the outside than on the inside. I notice that somebody runs 0 degrees camber and almost nobody runs more than -1 degree. Does anybody else notice this?
I'm heading out to practice tomorrow (medium bite carpet) and will post any brilliant discoveries afterwards.
Also, the tires seem to have a bit of built-in camber -- they appear to be a smaller diameter on the outside than on the inside. I notice that somebody runs 0 degrees camber and almost nobody runs more than -1 degree. Does anybody else notice this?
I'm heading out to practice tomorrow (medium bite carpet) and will post any brilliant discoveries afterwards.
#10
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Tried both diff and one-way in front. One-way lets you rotate the car into tight corners much more easily. I think it's overall easier to drive with a one-way. I have battled a loose condition and have cured it by increasing the weight of the front shock oil. I'm up to 60wt. I laid the rear shocks down and that has increased the grip at the back. Car now pushes a little, but is controllable with the throttle (snap off the throttle to rotate and set the car, get immediately back in to carry speed through the corner). Also believe that the lower the better.