The Speed Passion Thread
#1741
You think the RB30 has a turbo, the RB-S make the RB30's Turbo look like you forgot to turn it on, try sticking some double sided tap under your trigger so you need to real push the trottle to kick the turbo in this is a must with twin turbo power..
Now Speed Passion GT2.. my LCD is turning up today there seems to be a few people who run this on 1s.
Using a 6.6v life pack in my car so power to the reciver is not a problem, is there a good base to start with?
My plan is to run 110 reading though it seems to be the best starting point. Has anyone had problems with 1s using SP GT2 and software verison 110?
Motor will be a 6.5 SP v3 this weekend and don't want to blow it up using to high timming's
Alex
Now Speed Passion GT2.. my LCD is turning up today there seems to be a few people who run this on 1s.
Using a 6.6v life pack in my car so power to the reciver is not a problem, is there a good base to start with?
My plan is to run 110 reading though it seems to be the best starting point. Has anyone had problems with 1s using SP GT2 and software verison 110?
Motor will be a 6.5 SP v3 this weekend and don't want to blow it up using to high timming's
Alex
#1742
Problem with motor???
Hoping you all can help. I am new to brushelss motors and esc's. I am just getting back to racing and when I left it was all brushed motors with the Novak brushless systems just srating to show up in mod racing.
Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.
Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.
I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.
I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!...and HELP!!!
Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.
Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.
I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.
I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!...and HELP!!!
#1744
Hoping you all can help. I am new to brushelss motors and esc's. I am just getting back to racing and when I left it was all brushed motors with the Novak brushless systems just srating to show up in mod racing.
Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.
Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.
I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.
I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!...and HELP!!!
Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.
Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.
I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.
I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!...and HELP!!!
#1745
#1746
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Just a little info for you guys, a team driver of mine was trying to install some S/W on his ESC last night and ended up ruining his Speed Passion ESC and Speed Passion LCD box because he was using the Hobbywing software, not the Speed Passion software.
So next time someone tells you it's the same, it's not.
Just a little cost saving tip...
So next time someone tells you it's the same, it's not.
Just a little cost saving tip...
#1751
BTW, sorry if it sounds like I am being critical of the SP motor...I am not. I just fugred that this would be the best place to start trouble shooting. The new 3.0 motor is really nice with the ability to change motors (to other SP motors) by simply unplugging, then plugging back in...easy!
#1752
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
I'll give another motor a try...hopefully I can isolate the problem to either the motor or the esc.
BTW, sorry if it sounds like I am being critical of the SP motor...I am not. I just fugred that this would be the best place to start trouble shooting. The new 3.0 motor is really nice with the ability to change motors (to other SP motors) by simply unplugging, then plugging back in...easy!
BTW, sorry if it sounds like I am being critical of the SP motor...I am not. I just fugred that this would be the best place to start trouble shooting. The new 3.0 motor is really nice with the ability to change motors (to other SP motors) by simply unplugging, then plugging back in...easy!
1. I would try a different sensor cable (easiest and cheapest)
2. borrow, or try and different motor (easier than swapping an ESC)
If the problem is still there, obviously it's the sensor in the motor, shoot me an email, or call me and I'll be able to get you squared away if it is.
#1753
Yeah man, I just read your original post, deducing the issue is the first step.
1. I would try a different sensor cable (easiest and cheapest)
2. borrow, or try and different motor (easier than swapping an ESC)
If the problem is still there, obviously it's the sensor in the motor, shoot me an email, or call me and I'll be able to get you squared away if it is.
1. I would try a different sensor cable (easiest and cheapest)
2. borrow, or try and different motor (easier than swapping an ESC)
If the problem is still there, obviously it's the sensor in the motor, shoot me an email, or call me and I'll be able to get you squared away if it is.
Question, and maybe this has already been answered in this thread earlier, but what is the difference between the tow SP esc's?...the LPF seems to have more limited amp rating, but more than enough for 17.5 racing. Can both be programmed for timing boost?
#1754
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Thank you Adam. I'll do a little more trouble shooting and let you know.
Question, and maybe this has already been answered in this thread earlier, but what is the difference between the tow SP esc's?...the LPF seems to have more limited amp rating, but more than enough for 17.5 racing. Can both be programmed for timing boost?
Question, and maybe this has already been answered in this thread earlier, but what is the difference between the tow SP esc's?...the LPF seems to have more limited amp rating, but more than enough for 17.5 racing. Can both be programmed for timing boost?
The LPF is rated to 5.5T and the Pro had no motor limit.
The LPF is MORE than enough for 17.5, 13.5 and is the ESC I recommend for anyone NOT running mod, in on or off road applications.
#1755
Thanks again Adam. I'm kinda kicking myself right now. I didn't really know what I was buying when I started putting this car together so I went with what I knew...Novak. I found a new GTB 2.4ghz esc for $119. I did do some research on the boards, but didn't understand (until I got on the track) just what all the new technology is all about. I see that I can get the SP LPF for $130...for the extra $11 I think I blew it! Not knocking the Novak, it's just that the GTB is not the most current technology.
Oh well, live and learn!
Oh well, live and learn!