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Old 01-12-2010, 08:45 PM
  #1741  
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You think the RB30 has a turbo, the RB-S make the RB30's Turbo look like you forgot to turn it on, try sticking some double sided tap under your trigger so you need to real push the trottle to kick the turbo in this is a must with twin turbo power..

Now Speed Passion GT2.. my LCD is turning up today there seems to be a few people who run this on 1s.

Using a 6.6v life pack in my car so power to the reciver is not a problem, is there a good base to start with?

My plan is to run 110 reading though it seems to be the best starting point. Has anyone had problems with 1s using SP GT2 and software verison 110?

Motor will be a 6.5 SP v3 this weekend and don't want to blow it up using to high timming's


Alex
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Old 01-12-2010, 10:03 PM
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Default Problem with motor???

Hoping you all can help. I am new to brushelss motors and esc's. I am just getting back to racing and when I left it was all brushed motors with the Novak brushless systems just srating to show up in mod racing.

Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.

Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.

I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.

I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!...and HELP!!!
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:04 AM
  #1743  
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Hi all,

Can SOMEONE please tell where i can find a Competition 3.0 11.5t Motor that actually has them in stock??

any help would be much appreciated

Ben
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:08 AM
  #1744  
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Originally Posted by Old Tech
Hoping you all can help. I am new to brushelss motors and esc's. I am just getting back to racing and when I left it was all brushed motors with the Novak brushless systems just srating to show up in mod racing.

Here's the details. I have a new Speed Passion motor, a 17.5...the new 3.0 with the plug in wire terminals. It's been run about a alf dozen runs...3 practice, two qualifiers and a main. Motor was never run for more than 6 minutes in a run, and never temped over 140 drgrees. I tried to race tonite, but when I put the car down for practice, when I took off it sounded like I stripped a spur. Picked up the car and checked the spur and it was fine. I blipped the throttle while holding the car and everything sonded fine. Put it down again, and again the grinding noise. This time when I picked it up and verified that again the spur was fine, I tried the throttle again and nothing...motor would not turn. Back to the bench and I see that if I rotate the wheels a little, everything works again. A few blips of the throttle and it's fine...then stops again. Spin the wheels a little and it goes again for a few tries, then stops. I pulled the motor out of the car and tried to run the motor only. Same thing, runs fine for a few blips of throttle, then just stops working...spin the motor shaft and we run again. I did notice that when the motor would stop running, it stopped in the same spot..in about the same 90 or so degrees.

Trouble shooting, I tried a different battery pack and a new sensor wire. Problem still exists. I also reprogrammed the esc twice.

I am running a brand new Novak GTB 2.4ghz version. The battery is a Reedy 5000mah 2S 35C lipo. Chassis is an Ofna JL-10e. FDR was run from 4.0 to about 3.9. Motor temp never over 140 degrees.

I realize this may also be an esc issue, but I'll start here. I see that SP sells just the internal sensor ring/plate for the 3.0 motor...might I have a bad sensor as the motor always stops in the same spot
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!...and HELP!!!
From what you say this a sensor problem of the esc or the motor. I had the same problem and it was esc. Try putting another motor to the esc . If it works its the motor , if it dos not is the esc and you have to repair it.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:57 AM
  #1745  
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Default Speed Passion Wireless Power

Originally Posted by abailey21
HAHAHAHAAAHAHA!
since 2008
said that 2009 is the research year
is it true that Speed Passion Wireless Power was a Hoax adam?
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:07 AM
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Just a little info for you guys, a team driver of mine was trying to install some S/W on his ESC last night and ended up ruining his Speed Passion ESC and Speed Passion LCD box because he was using the Hobbywing software, not the Speed Passion software.

So next time someone tells you it's the same, it's not.

Just a little cost saving tip...
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:11 AM
  #1747  
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Cough Cough...Yeah, don't cross breed Hobbywing with Speedpassion. Its like mating a Chihuahua with a Saint Bernard. Don't do it! And No, they are definitely not the same.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:14 AM
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I was gonna be nice and not dime you out Charlie lol
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:15 AM
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Dude..word would have gotten out sooner or later....
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:19 AM
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True, but it wasn't going to come from me
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by memix
From what you say this a sensor problem of the esc or the motor. I had the same problem and it was esc. Try putting another motor to the esc . If it works its the motor , if it dos not is the esc and you have to repair it.
I'll give another motor a try...hopefully I can isolate the problem to either the motor or the esc.

BTW, sorry if it sounds like I am being critical of the SP motor...I am not. I just fugred that this would be the best place to start trouble shooting. The new 3.0 motor is really nice with the ability to change motors (to other SP motors) by simply unplugging, then plugging back in...easy!
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:43 AM
  #1752  
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Originally Posted by Old Tech
I'll give another motor a try...hopefully I can isolate the problem to either the motor or the esc.

BTW, sorry if it sounds like I am being critical of the SP motor...I am not. I just fugred that this would be the best place to start trouble shooting. The new 3.0 motor is really nice with the ability to change motors (to other SP motors) by simply unplugging, then plugging back in...easy!
Yeah man, I just read your original post, deducing the issue is the first step.

1. I would try a different sensor cable (easiest and cheapest)
2. borrow, or try and different motor (easier than swapping an ESC)

If the problem is still there, obviously it's the sensor in the motor, shoot me an email, or call me and I'll be able to get you squared away if it is.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by abailey21
Yeah man, I just read your original post, deducing the issue is the first step.

1. I would try a different sensor cable (easiest and cheapest)
2. borrow, or try and different motor (easier than swapping an ESC)

If the problem is still there, obviously it's the sensor in the motor, shoot me an email, or call me and I'll be able to get you squared away if it is.
Thank you Adam. I'll do a little more trouble shooting and let you know.

Question, and maybe this has already been answered in this thread earlier, but what is the difference between the tow SP esc's?...the LPF seems to have more limited amp rating, but more than enough for 17.5 racing. Can both be programmed for timing boost?
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:55 AM
  #1754  
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Originally Posted by Old Tech
Thank you Adam. I'll do a little more trouble shooting and let you know.

Question, and maybe this has already been answered in this thread earlier, but what is the difference between the tow SP esc's?...the LPF seems to have more limited amp rating, but more than enough for 17.5 racing. Can both be programmed for timing boost?
Both ESC's will accept the same software, and you are correct, the difference between the two is price and capability

The LPF is rated to 5.5T and the Pro had no motor limit.

The LPF is MORE than enough for 17.5, 13.5 and is the ESC I recommend for anyone NOT running mod, in on or off road applications.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:13 AM
  #1755  
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Thanks again Adam. I'm kinda kicking myself right now. I didn't really know what I was buying when I started putting this car together so I went with what I knew...Novak. I found a new GTB 2.4ghz esc for $119. I did do some research on the boards, but didn't understand (until I got on the track) just what all the new technology is all about. I see that I can get the SP LPF for $130...for the extra $11 I think I blew it! Not knocking the Novak, it's just that the GTB is not the most current technology.

Oh well, live and learn!
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