9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
01-01-2011, 08:27 PM
#6722
With the price of the front knuckle/rear hub combo from TOP it really makes sense to just replace these often. Buying XRay units will cost about 2x the price.
01-01-2011, 08:31 PM
#6723
XRay front steering knuckles and c-hubs work well. The rear hubs are a bit different so I would really just run the TOP units. If you add a set screw into the unused hole then last longer. The aluminum rear hubs are really nice too... as long as you don't wreck too much and bend them. I know at Snowbirds I'll be running some fresh (i.e. unbent) aluminum rear hubs to avoid any unexpected drama.
With the price of the front knuckle/rear hub combo from TOP it really makes sense to just replace these often. Buying XRay units will cost about 2x the price.
With the price of the front knuckle/rear hub combo from TOP it really makes sense to just replace these often. Buying XRay units will cost about 2x the price.
01-02-2011, 06:55 AM
#6726
Just want to share my steering bell crank,, it's one piece. Need some expert opinion on this.
01-02-2011, 07:05 AM
#6727
01-02-2011, 07:43 AM
#6729
01-02-2011, 07:50 AM
#6730
01-02-2011, 08:41 AM
#6731
The set screw boss needs to be shaved, and the hingepin boss is a little too wide to fit in the front TOP arm. Its nothing too involved, i did the mods at the track with minimal tools. (Micrometer, sandpaper, dremel with reinforced cutting wheel and sanding drum.)
It could stand to be cleaned up a little bit... as im usually pretty anal about my work... but i was just trying to see if it would even fit or make a difference on same track day conditions.
The only thing i see as a negative is the lower shock positions. The outer hole on the front arm is real close to the inner hole on the rear arm... which is what i was using anyways. On a track with more grip, you might have issues.
XRay front steering knuckles and c-hubs work well. The rear hubs are a bit different so I would really just run the TOP units. If you add a set screw into the unused hole then last longer.
With the price of the front knuckle/rear hub combo from TOP it really makes sense to just replace these often. Buying XRay units will cost about 2x the price.
With the price of the front knuckle/rear hub combo from TOP it really makes sense to just replace these often. Buying XRay units will cost about 2x the price.
Tony even scratched his head... as he saw it happen more than once. Very frustrating.
If you take into account how much i spent on replacement TOP parts... the XRay hubs are cheap not only to the plastic TOP parts... but the aluminum units as well. I NEVER broke any front or rear hubs on my XRay... and plastic doesnt bend like aluminum. I mean, you plan on buying new hubs before Snowbirds... so that means youre buying expensive aluminum parts twice? How is that inexpensive?
Not trying to debate here but i mean... really? Your reasoning doesnt follow sound logic.
01-02-2011, 09:35 AM
#6732
Tech Adept
my photon with the newest option parts to get
steering alloy crank set
alloy 20T center pulley
alloy camber link plates
u-pro geardiff
steering alloy crank set
alloy 20T center pulley
alloy camber link plates
u-pro geardiff
01-02-2011, 09:43 AM
#6733
Tech Adept
@DaveW:
Did this happen on a cold track?
Maybe the original top hubs are too stiff.
If I remember correctly the xray parts are little less stiff.
And in cold conditions they would last longer, indeed.
Iīve heard from people cooking their plastic parts in water before mounting.
Havenīt done this yet, but you might try this.
Did this happen on a cold track?
Maybe the original top hubs are too stiff.
If I remember correctly the xray parts are little less stiff.
And in cold conditions they would last longer, indeed.
Iīve heard from people cooking their plastic parts in water before mounting.
Havenīt done this yet, but you might try this.
01-02-2011, 11:25 AM
#6734
The set screw boss needs to be shaved, and the hingepin boss is a little too wide to fit in the front TOP arm. Its nothing too involved, i did the mods at the track with minimal tools. (Micrometer, sandpaper, dremel with reinforced cutting wheel and sanding drum.)
It could stand to be cleaned up a little bit... as im usually pretty anal about my work... but i was just trying to see if it would even fit or make a difference on same track day conditions.
The only thing i see as a negative is the lower shock positions. The outer hole on the front arm is real close to the inner hole on the rear arm... which is what i was using anyways. On a track with more grip, you might have issues.
My issue wasnt the lack of the setscrew in the rear hub... I had that installed as well. My car would seriously just tap a board and crack a steering hub across the bearing race... and/or then the rear of the car would hit and shatter a rear hub. This happened almost every run.
Tony even scratched his head... as he saw it happen more than once. Very frustrating.
If you take into account how much i spent on replacement TOP parts... the XRay hubs are cheap not only to the plastic TOP parts... but the aluminum units as well. I NEVER broke any front or rear hubs on my XRay... and plastic doesnt bend like aluminum. I mean, you plan on buying new hubs before Snowbirds... so that means youre buying expensive aluminum parts twice? How is that inexpensive?
Not trying to debate here but i mean... really? Your reasoning doesnt follow sound logic.
I think there are other ways to use that style hub too, the HB arms have the same pin size, but if I remember right they are about .5mm shorter than the top, which could also be a tuning choice.
01-02-2011, 11:29 AM
#6735
@DaveW:
Did this happen on a cold track?
Maybe the original top hubs are too stiff.
If I remember correctly the xray parts are little less stiff.
And in cold conditions they would last longer, indeed.
Iīve heard from people cooking their plastic parts in water before mounting.
Havenīt done this yet, but you might try this.
Did this happen on a cold track?
Maybe the original top hubs are too stiff.
If I remember correctly the xray parts are little less stiff.
And in cold conditions they would last longer, indeed.
Iīve heard from people cooking their plastic parts in water before mounting.
Havenīt done this yet, but you might try this.
I didn't get to see the incidents that caused the breakage, but the parts were breaking in abnormal ways. Dave is a talented driver and very meticulous about his cars. Odd situation at best. We have several Photons at the track and a variety of driver skill piloting them. No one has the same breakage problem that Dave has had. That's where the frustration comes in. I won't concede that the Xray parts are any better. The night before, one of our Xray drivers ripped an arm off his car and then followed the repair by tearing the rear bulkhead through the chassis. It happens to the best of them.