Nico'

Hi Martin,

I'm really very sorry to have said something wrong, please excuse me.

I use flat batteries and can you tell me how to lock the battery ( on more than tape, of course) if I want to put off central 20g weight?

jackdani

this was my feeling too,
how do you suggest to do?

tnx

jackdani

hi nico where are u from?

however i had you problem too,
as i m using flat batteries.
solutions i used are two:

-i glued a small square of carbon under the batteries so that it will fit the hole
-if you don't want to glue it u can use the tape not only in the front-to-back direction but also in the left-to-right direction because as you can see the chassis has 4 holes for the tape.
this is how i tape:

Nico'

Hi Jackdani,

Thank you a lot for your answer.

I'm from France and you?

So thanks I have 2 ways to solve my problem.

today I use the inner 20g weight to lock the battery ( in one way only but it seems to work)
but if I put off the weight ( my car is too heavy with big fan on the motor) the battery will touch the belt, so I will do as you said me.

one thing I don't understand is if I use the left to right tape or small square of carbon or against the inner weight the position of the battery is not the same.
Which way is the best for the balance please?

kschu

iTrader: (16)

u can try the center 8mm centerlink...use ltc-r shell or P37 will gv u better steering....

jackdani

no, it has to be the same,
when you tape you have to fix the front-to-back tape as you have the battery in holes, than you tape the others way little bit behind...the battery should be always in the same inner position as you have the 20g weight!

btw i m from italy...i supposed you where from europe as US user now are seeping!!

jackdani

tnx a lot, do you know where i can find the centerlink?

nex body will be ltcr btw!

fpart

iTrader: (41)

the outter hingepin is 2mm, Xray is 3mm, so you would need to drill up the hole to make the new hingepins fit, but the standard driveshafts are absolutely fine, as long as you take them apart the very first time before using them, cleaning them properly, heating them once and oil them with 2 drops of WD40[/QUOTE]

I am one of the BD5 racers that run at Horsham(sometimes). I bought some graphite rod that has 2mm ID and 3mm OD and inserted them in the xray c-hubs. This makes the stock outer hinge pine work perfectly. In addition, you have to be very careful on the spacing of the spindle in the c-hub to get as close geometry as possible to the stock BD-5 front suspension. I have used both the Yokomo spindles and the xray spindles in this setup.

The setup isn't as good as using the stock parts(geometry wise). Im sure Martin has said this before. However, since I guess I don't drive well enough to stay of boards and the stock setup usually breaks every other heat so the xray setup works for me. I also use the spec R ecs driveshafts and as stated above the stock c-Hubs need to be ground to use them and this makes the c-hubs weaker. I agree with Martin that the ecs shafts aren't needed but again I have had some failure issues with the stock driveshafts also so the spec R ones seem to be a little more reliable.

I showed Jeff Cuffs what I did and he was running the xray setup for a while but went back to the stock setup.

matt rem

iTrader: (25)

Tom, can you tell me where you got the graphite rod? Jeff isn't running a Yokomo anymore, hes running a TC6

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Yes I heard..I heard he was fast with his TC6. I think I got the graphite from rcfoam(don't quote me though). www.rcfoam.com

kschu

iTrader: (16)

after i change the c-hub to plastic, i feel is better and more durable than the graphite c-hub..

so far, i never break a plastic c-hub yet....

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Do you have barriers on your track?

We have a medium sized carpet track with PVC barriers(many of them). We have no corner dots, so you really need to hold a tight apex to go fast. Many of our US national level drivers even break parts on their cars, although not as many as I have with my BD-5. One of them was posting here, a former Snowbirds winner, as well as Reedy Race of Champions winner.

I have broken many C-hubs and even split a few spindles. I fully agree that the plastic ones are much better but they still break. Since I converted to Xray C hubs, I have not broken even one of them. Let me tell you I have hit the barriers pretty hard with them!

I also have a xray T3 and have not broken any C-hubs on it either.

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Are the BD5 and TC6 steerig knuckles the same? Also are the F/R belts interchangable between the TC6 and BD5?

Jeff Cuffs

iTrader: (2)

The steering knuckles are different

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Thanks are u going to birds? Is so good luck.