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Old 05-18-2004, 08:16 AM
  #2161  
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I've run Tamiya's ti axles in both my Evo3 and 415. I'd suggest that you put them in once you've got a good setup and would like that extra little rip coming out of corners. It's not really a must have item, but if you want all out performance, it provides a big weight savings compared with the steel axles, and that's rotating mass.

Durability:

I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)

I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.

I hope this helps.

Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:56 AM
  #2162  
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Default Re: Titanium Axles

Originally posted by jpn
Anyone using the Square or Tamiya optional titanium axles? Do any of them really make a difference in the performace of the car? In what way and by how much? Which of the two is better? Could they also be used in the front or just the rear durability wise? Thanks.
I use the Tamiya one front and rear. Performance-wise at least they make your car lighter. The Square one came out before the Tamiya one and is cheaper but not TCS legal.
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Old 05-18-2004, 10:22 AM
  #2163  
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Originally posted by Grindog001
i think it is out of stock there. if it is the $17.99 pulley

is there anywhere else or will they be in stock soon?
They are back in stock now (they came in yesterday)

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Old 05-18-2004, 10:43 AM
  #2164  
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Originally posted by rtypec
I've run Tamiya's ti axles in both my Evo3 and 415. I'd suggest that you put them in once you've got a good setup and would like that extra little rip coming out of corners. It's not really a must have item, but if you want all out performance, it provides a big weight savings compared with the steel axles, and that's rotating mass.

Durability:

I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)

I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.

I hope this helps.
the front pin holes are starting to look like ellipses now also. but this was after i slapped in a spool and ran it in 19T and a few races with a 9x1.

prior it was primarily stock and i didnt see any wear. so if you just run it in stock, you should be okay for a long time.
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Old 05-18-2004, 11:17 AM
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rtypec: wanna share your latest 415 setup for the tamiya track?
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Old 05-18-2004, 11:34 AM
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Originally posted by over gear
rtypec: wanna share your latest 415 setup for the tamiya track?
It's not too different from the last setup I posted. I tried a lot of things and ended up going back to my original setup (I know it could be faster but I guess I'm getting too used to this one). However, I did change to C/A blocks in the front. Also, I adjust rear camber from 1.5 to 1.25 degrees (okay 1.25 is like line edge to line edge on the setup station ) depending on time of day. Laptimes have improved by a tenth or two with fastest being 13.57. I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.


Click me for 415 Setup :P

*Disclaimer: This setup may not suit everybody's driving style.

Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 05-18-2004, 11:43 AM
  #2167  
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Originally posted by rtypec
I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.
Rod, I don't know about the rebuild but I know for certain the live animal sacrifice works. Too bad it's against county health regulations.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:25 PM
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Originally posted by rtypec
It's not too different from the last setup I posted. I tried a lot of things and ended up going back to my original setup (I know it could be faster but I guess I'm getting too used to this one). However, I did change to C/A blocks in the front. Also, I adjust rear camber from 1.5 to 1.25 degrees (okay 1.25 is like line edge to line edge on the setup station ) depending on time of day. Laptimes have improved by a tenth or two with fastest being 13.57. I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.


Click me for 415 Setup :P

*Disclaimer: This setup may not suit everybody's driving style.
C/A front blocks?? what is it for?
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Old 05-18-2004, 01:39 PM
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Originally posted by over gear
C/A front blocks?? what is it for?
C block and the A bridge block? doesnt that give you Toe Out?
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:06 PM
  #2170  
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I believe this will sweep the wheels farther when turning left and right, similar to having more Ackerman, to get more turn in. But I have not tried this yet, so for me it's all assumption and speculation.
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:10 PM
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Originally posted by Hebiki
C block and the A bridge block? doesnt that give you Toe Out?
this is similar to the pro4 toe blocks in front.. having more toe-out in front add to more aggressive cornering...
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:13 PM
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Originally posted by over gear
C/A front blocks?? what is it for?
OG,
Having the front hinge pins toe-out increases steering...entering a corner, mid corner, corner exit. Losi started it with the XXX-s, but it works well on just about every car. When you make this change, you will also have to adjust your front toe.
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:13 PM
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It provides more aggressive steering. Try it, you might like it

edit: Hey Ling, it was kinda ironic that Beale brought his "racing vehicle dynamics" books with him to the track to point out exactly what's wrong with our toy car setups and logic...but nowhere in the books does it say how to fix it. Typical engineer books that are good at defining but not so good with applying... Oddly enough, one of the books said that front inboard toe out or anything that promotes roll steer, is bad. Go figure


Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:15 PM
  #2174  
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Hey, I beat Rod at posting!!!
At least I get to beat rod at something!
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:29 PM
  #2175  
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is there a differnce between setting your toe out with suspension blocks or setting it with the steering turnbuckles?
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