XXX-S vs Mission
10-31-2003, 06:23 AM
#31
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Dislikes
- Poor Droop screw placement, its not difficult to adjust, but it is a pain, cause you have to access them from the bottom.
- Diff access is complicated. You end up disassembling your suspension a little to gain diff access. This can change your settings, and in a rush, this is not good!
- Breakage. Yes, this car does break parts, especially arms in hits and tumbles.
- Sloppy ball ends/bellcranks
- Set screws that hold outer hingepins; a very poor design, and I just wish everyone would do like the B4 or yok SD, and caputure their hingepins that way.
Why do i run one then? Despite all my dislikes, its still a competitive car. I'm still sorting things out on it, but so far its been able to keep pace with my previous TC3.
Buddha
Dislikes
- Poor Droop screw placement, its not difficult to adjust, but it is a pain, cause you have to access them from the bottom.
- Diff access is complicated. You end up disassembling your suspension a little to gain diff access. This can change your settings, and in a rush, this is not good!
- Breakage. Yes, this car does break parts, especially arms in hits and tumbles.
- Sloppy ball ends/bellcranks
- Set screws that hold outer hingepins; a very poor design, and I just wish everyone would do like the B4 or yok SD, and caputure their hingepins that way.
Why do i run one then? Despite all my dislikes, its still a competitive car. I'm still sorting things out on it, but so far its been able to keep pace with my previous TC3.
Buddha
... not to start argument, but i'd just like to share my opinion on what buddaha posted...
... i don't disassemble my suspension in order to gain diff access, in fact the xxx's has the most convient diff access.
... i don't use the droop screw, this one is a fact, the xxxs droop screws dont work, that is why i adjust the shock ends equally to meet the droop that i want.
... and yes, its a very competive car...
- jason
10-31-2003, 08:32 AM
#32
Tech Rookie
Highwayman,
I have found the Droop screws on my XXX-S to seem a little ineffective too, certainly at the front. Seems that if I adjust them so they actually do something, they bend the part of the front bumper they screw into.
This may ne a completely stupid question, but if I don't ask, I will never know
How do you adjust the shock ends to adjust the droop? and while I am on the prowl for tips and tricks......
Has anyone got any tips on what spur / pinion to use on a Trinity Revenge of the Monster?
Currently trying a 118 spur and 37 pinion (following one of the Losi setup sheets), but I think that is overgeared quite a lot. Would dropping down to a 33 pinion be more about right? (64dp gearing obviously)
Oh, and anyone have any preference for what make of hex driver to use? I see Losi do a set, is it worth the money? The standard Allen Keys that came with the kit are trashed now, and cut my fingers to pieces when building it in the first place. I'm very delicate, you know!
Thanks for reading!
Rain
I have found the Droop screws on my XXX-S to seem a little ineffective too, certainly at the front. Seems that if I adjust them so they actually do something, they bend the part of the front bumper they screw into.
This may ne a completely stupid question, but if I don't ask, I will never know
How do you adjust the shock ends to adjust the droop? and while I am on the prowl for tips and tricks......Has anyone got any tips on what spur / pinion to use on a Trinity Revenge of the Monster?
Currently trying a 118 spur and 37 pinion (following one of the Losi setup sheets), but I think that is overgeared quite a lot. Would dropping down to a 33 pinion be more about right? (64dp gearing obviously)
Oh, and anyone have any preference for what make of hex driver to use? I see Losi do a set, is it worth the money? The standard Allen Keys that came with the kit are trashed now, and cut my fingers to pieces when building it in the first place. I'm very delicate, you know!
Thanks for reading!
Rain
10-31-2003, 08:35 AM
#33
No Arguments here...
... not to start argument, but i'd just like to share my opinion on what buddaha posted...
... i don't disassemble my suspension in order to gain diff access, in fact the xxx's has the most convient diff access.
... i don't use the droop screw, this one is a fact, the xxxs droop screws dont work, that is why i adjust the shock ends equally to meet the droop that i want.
.. and yes, its a very competive car...
- jason
... i don't disassemble my suspension in order to gain diff access, in fact the xxx's has the most convient diff access.
... i don't use the droop screw, this one is a fact, the xxxs droop screws dont work, that is why i adjust the shock ends equally to meet the droop that i want.
.. and yes, its a very competive car...
- jason
I'm not trying to say that the XXX-S has the worst diff access. The xray, 414m2, and even the tc3 can be cumbersome to get to the diffs, especially when you need to make a quick repair.
As far as droop screws:
Yes, I could use spacers in the shocks, but that is inconvenient. It would require additional spacers of varying thicknesses and take MORE time away from driving the car. Turning a little screw is much more convenient, less time consuming, and probably more accurate. I agree that they don't work, and I'm very surprised Losi hasn't done anything to rectify the problem.
I'm not trying to say that I sit there and constantly rebuild my diffs and adjust my droop. I don't. I just feel that: the easier it is to make these adjustments/repairs, the faster you can get on the track to run.
Just my .02,
Buddha
10-31-2003, 08:54 AM
#34
Originally posted by Rain
Highwayman,
I have found the Droop screws on my XXX-S to seem a little ineffective too, certainly at the front. Seems that if I adjust them so they actually do something, they bend the part of the front bumper they screw into.
This may ne a completely stupid question, but if I don't ask, I will never know How do you adjust the shock ends to adjust the droop? and while I am on the prowl for tips and tricks......
Highwayman,
I have found the Droop screws on my XXX-S to seem a little ineffective too, certainly at the front. Seems that if I adjust them so they actually do something, they bend the part of the front bumper they screw into.
This may ne a completely stupid question, but if I don't ask, I will never know
How do you adjust the shock ends to adjust the droop? and while I am on the prowl for tips and tricks......
yep... i believe no one really uses the droop screws anymore, they screw up your setup more than actually improving it.
I adjust the droop through the lengthening or shortening of the shock ends. to lengthen, i unscrew the shock end a little and vise versa.
Has anyone got any tips on what spur / pinion to use on a Trinity Revenge of the Monster?
Currently trying a 118 spur and 37 pinion (following one of the Losi setup sheets), but I think that is overgeared quite a lot. Would dropping down to a 33 pinion be more about right? (64dp gearing obviously)
Currently trying a 118 spur and 37 pinion (following one of the Losi setup sheets), but I think that is overgeared quite a lot. Would dropping down to a 33 pinion be more about right? (64dp gearing obviously)
for the monster i use 128 spur with a 33 pinion.
Oh, and anyone have any preference for what make of hex driver to use? I see Losi do a set, is it worth the money? The standard Allen Keys that came with the kit are trashed now, and cut my fingers to pieces when building it in the first place. I'm very delicate, you know!
Rain
Rain
yes, the losi drivers are worth it, these are the most durable that i have tried by far. as for me, the only thing i dont like is that they're quite short.
10-31-2003, 09:00 AM
#35
Re: No Arguments here...
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Out of curiosity, how do you disassemble your car to get the diffs? I have to undo the gear cover, unscrew the tensioner, and undo the 4 or 6 more that releases the trans case. That in turn, pulls one of the suspension mounts out, and temporarily undoes your suspension. How is yours different?
Buddha
Out of curiosity, how do you disassemble your car to get the diffs? I have to undo the gear cover, unscrew the tensioner, and undo the 4 or 6 more that releases the trans case. That in turn, pulls one of the suspension mounts out, and temporarily undoes your suspension. How is yours different?
Buddha
... my $.02... 4 screws on the diff cover (rear) 6 if for the front and one for the the tensioner is a bit easier than the others i have tried.
... with regards the suspension mounts, i personally, leave the arms there if the diff is the only thing im removing. unless, im rebuiding the whole car.
10-31-2003, 12:06 PM
#36
Tech Rookie
Thanks Mercury, I shall make some changes and see how it goes
Rain
Rain
11-01-2003, 07:14 AM
#37
Originally posted by Rain
Thanks Mercury, I shall make some changes and see how it goes
Rain
Thanks Mercury, I shall make some changes and see how it goes
Rain
No problem...
BTW, there's a losi XXX's thread solely dedicated to the touring car, if you have any other questions, post it there, so that more drivers can give you their opinions.
11-01-2003, 04:27 PM
#38
Tech Regular
Don't get the same car your man has! Here is why when you beat him or get in a heated argument about which is better you then need to make up and nothing beats make-up SEX!!!!!!!
11-01-2003, 11:03 PM
#39
Hey,
i
i
11-02-2003, 09:39 AM
#40
Heck,
if you are worried about breaking and the price, get a HPI pro 2!
Change all the graphite composite plastic parts to normal parts (6 bucks per tree) and you have a tank that will be fast/ light/ and cheap.
As for speed controls, MC330CR are very good reverse speed controls. It handles up to 13T and is reverse lockable.
The mc230cr and mc330cr is the best reversing controlers in my opinion. First reverse pull is always break! and if you go back to neutral and pull reverse again, then it's reverse. This way, you don't have to worry about setting when your reverse to kick in but also allow whenever you want it to kick in!
if you are worried about breaking and the price, get a HPI pro 2!
Change all the graphite composite plastic parts to normal parts (6 bucks per tree) and you have a tank that will be fast/ light/ and cheap.
As for speed controls, MC330CR are very good reverse speed controls. It handles up to 13T and is reverse lockable.
The mc230cr and mc330cr is the best reversing controlers in my opinion. First reverse pull is always break! and if you go back to neutral and pull reverse again, then it's reverse. This way, you don't have to worry about setting when your reverse to kick in but also allow whenever you want it to kick in!
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