Originally Posted by gonzo416
I tried this way. My ride height was 5mm, then I set the droop on the gauge at 5. When I put the tires on the droop screws were literally on the chassis. So there was no uptravel at all.
Thats because all the gauge gives you is a RELATIVE measurement. The numbers on the gauge tells you the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the suspension arms...NOT an actual amount of droop or more correctly, suspension sag.
To determine the amount of real droop you have you have to measure your ride height then lift the center of the car they way I described until the shocks top out them measure your ride height again. The diffrence between the two figures is your real droop.
Then and only then can you remove the tires and use your droop blocks to record the relative figure that will give you the actual droop you want.
For example, To get 1.5mm of droop in the rear of my Mi3.5 I need to set my lower arms to 5.0 on my droop blocks.
FYI, for the last 7 years I was the sales manager for Schumacher USA. I have run the tech table at an IFMAR Worlds, am friends with most of the drivers you read about and I can tell you this is how most of them set droop.
Also, I always leave my shocks on when setting my suspension. There is no point taking them off since when you are racing they will be acting on your suspension arms. Its best to setup your suspension in race ready condition.