gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

I need help with this. Especially the droop because when I lift the car by the center of the chassis to check droop the tires fill out before lifting of the setup board. With foams they lift right up so droop is easy to set.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

What I do is put my pinky finger on one turnbuckle and my index finger on the turbnbuckle on the other side then with my thumb lift the middle of the car by the sway bar, shock tower, bulkhead, whatever untill you feel the shocks are extended. You fingers on the turn buckles will hold the tires in contact with the surface you are on and lifting the center of the car will top out your suspension. While holding this I measure the ride height. Then I let go, tap the top of the car a few times and measure the ride height again. The diffrence between the two measurements is your droop.

I swear its easier to do than to describe...lol!

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

that is a popular and innacurate way to do it. Here is the right way

chicagokenji

Nicely adorned pit space you have there!

Luxurious compared to mine!

chris_dono

When people mention "droop" in reference to running rubber tyres, they normally mean the downstop value on the suspension arms, and NOT the droop measurement.

Adrians measurement is the correct measurement for droop (difference between ride height and maximum travel of suspension), however nobody really uses that for rubber.

|JayFlores|2

iTrader: (16)

you might want to remove your shocks first Actually i use the droop guage to set my droop screws evenly. then, i use adrianM's method.

mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

Uh nobody other than myself and all the other people who know what droop actually is about.

mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

Here is yet another version.

For this I use the Prescision Ride Height Gauge from HUDY.

Set the car on the board in RTR condition.

Settle the suspension.

Check the ride height.

The slide the under the chassis's edge until the point that it looks like the tires shape (contact patch) is just slightly changing.

The roll the tires at that end of the car just enough to see if they are slipping or grabbing (getting traction on the board).

The value on the gauge when you get both tires teatering between the point of slipping or grabbing is the value to subtract your ride height from which will give you the droop value.

The method is much like Adrians except you are less likely to pull a muscle or dislocate a knuckle doing it.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Well, that works for setting the car initially our after you know what figure to set it to but to determin the difference between ride height and the chassis topped out sate you HAVE to do it my way.

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

I tried this way. My ride height was 5mm, then I set the droop on the gauge at 5. When I put the tires on the droop screws were literally on the chassis. So there was no uptravel at all.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

i forgot to mention that the shocks and swaybars MUST be removed before adjustment, i didn't just so i could take a quick photo.

Adam?

The David Jun method has a formula that allows you to translate your settings to the more common "over ride height" or "up travel" measurements.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/3148889-post6.html

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Thats because all the gauge gives you is a RELATIVE measurement. The numbers on the gauge tells you the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the suspension arms...NOT an actual amount of droop or more correctly, suspension sag.

To determine the amount of real droop you have you have to measure your ride height then lift the center of the car they way I described until the shocks top out them measure your ride height again. The diffrence between the two figures is your real droop.

Then and only then can you remove the tires and use your droop blocks to record the relative figure that will give you the actual droop you want.

For example, To get 1.5mm of droop in the rear of my Mi3.5 I need to set my lower arms to 5.0 on my droop blocks.

FYI, for the last 7 years I was the sales manager for Schumacher USA. I have run the tech table at an IFMAR Worlds, am friends with most of the drivers you read about and I can tell you this is how most of them set droop.

Also, I always leave my shocks on when setting my suspension. There is no point taking them off since when you are racing they will be acting on your suspension arms. Its best to setup your suspension in race ready condition.