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Old 11-12-2014, 10:05 AM
  #7396  
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Thanks, I'll try the C/A glue. got the hard bumper.

Last edited by magee; 11-12-2014 at 10:08 AM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:56 AM
  #7397  
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Originally Posted by magee
Thanks, I'll try the C/A glue. got the hard bumper.
The original P01 and P02 had issues popping off but Oleg made a "running change" keeping the original part number but making them significantly more crash resistant. It's been a long time since I had that part pop off. So make sure you have the newer style that have been available for well over a year now. They are very difficult to pop together during assembly and with some tires require some trimming to clear the rim if shimmed at 2.75mm on ST03. ( specifically sweep QTS true blue spec tires )

Jake D.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:57 AM
  #7398  
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Hi all,

I'm selling an A700 Evo

PM me for more details and pics

Claude
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:52 PM
  #7399  
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thanks very good info.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:44 PM
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You may find the revised P01 & P02 still pop off in a big hit. The best solution we have found is still to put a small amount of glue in the joint.

Cheers
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:41 AM
  #7401  
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Originally Posted by Wazza22
You may find the revised P01 & P02 still pop off in a big hit. The best solution we have found is still to put a small amount of glue in the joint.

Cheers
Sorry for asking, but i'm new to the EVO700. Is it a small drop of CA on the ball stud, ore inside the ball cup you are applying ?
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:20 AM
  #7402  
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Originally Posted by Shock Tower
Sorry for asking, but i'm new to the EVO700. Is it a small drop of CA on the ball stud, ore inside the ball cup you are applying ?
Neither, it is between P01 and P02 pieces where they snap together. Make sure they are at the angle that your setup is going to use before you glue them ie set camber, caster, etc and then glue them together. The ball stud on the hub and cup still need to move freely so don't glue those.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:05 AM
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It is also good practice to try to pop the ball cup off as little as possible as each time you do it becomes looser. On the inside ball cups it is a good idea to replace the balls and rod ends with either t.o.p or xray parts.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by trackout
Neither, it is between P01 and P02 pieces where they snap together. Make sure they are at the angle that your setup is going to use before you glue them ie set camber, caster, etc and then glue them together. The ball stud on the hub and cup still need to move freely so don't glue those.
I didn't think to glue the ballstub and the ball cup togehter. I thought that applying a little CA on one of those, you would add a little material, and then the excess free play would be removed. I had a Schumacher Mi5, where there was a ball wishbone connector, that would get loos, and then the fix was a little CA to remove the play.

But my mistake, i get it now, thanks.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:57 AM
  #7405  
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.

Last edited by G-rem; 11-14-2014 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:09 PM
  #7406  
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Guys i'm selling my EVO, focusing on pan car for now, link below if interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13655996
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:54 AM
  #7407  
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Nearly new Evo to sell with plenty of parts (a spare GD2, 2 spare GD1, parts for shafts,...), PM me for more info
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:19 AM
  #7408  
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Racing today on a bumpy track. Getting on brakes at one of the turns there are bumps making the car bounce in the back. Creating a spin if I don't set it up just right. The rest of the track the car handles great. I'm running stock 17.5 with L chassis and hanulec/fairtrace go to set up for carpet. Will the asymmetrical mod help?
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:17 AM
  #7409  
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Originally Posted by Jamison R
Racing today on a bumpy track. Getting on brakes at one of the turns there are bumps making the car bounce in the back. Creating a spin if I don't set it up just right. The rest of the track the car handles great. I'm running stock 17.5 with L chassis and hanulec/fairtrace go to set up for carpet. Will the asymmetrical mod help?
I think it may but some of the guys who ran IIC felt the bumps effected the car negitavly this way. Try asymmetrial first (will help some) but if it's not the total fix tray swapping and asymmetrical. I never was able to test this on the bumpy asphalt track in Dayton but regular asymmetrical did help there.

Not soilid advise but well worth your time in trying it.

Monti
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:44 AM
  #7410  
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Which track Jamison? Do u have a pic of the corner?

Reverse assymetrical doesn't help on bumps (per iic mod tc with reverse assymetrical on rear)

Assymetrical could help.
Another idea is to further soften the suspension (dampening/springs) but run HUGE bars.
Maximum droop to keep tires on the road
Longer links (my setup uses short links)

Thankfully (?) I don't run bumpy tracks much. The bumpiest so far was the washboard straightaway at 2013 asphalt nats. It was my 3rd race with the car ever and tried #3 dampeners all around that weekend. Not recommending this as a solution to bumps.. Just a fact of were my setup was in attempts to combat other handling issues ... And eventually drove me to the base setup i run today.
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