XRAY T2’009
08-04-2009, 08:08 AM
#1441
Yes That is what I am speaking of. The turnbuckle is not parallel with the chassis. The side that connects to the servo arm is higher than the side that connects to the servo saver system. Is this ok or will it cause problems? I can put spacers in the servo saver system assembly to lift the turnbuckle up but not sure if this is recommended and/or necessary.
08-04-2009, 09:12 AM
#1442
I know TRF shocks are very good.One of the best.Its just a thing about setup.If you never run others setups,the Tamiya shocks are fine.But that really limits the cars quick-tune ability because even with similar shock setups,it will never feel the same.With guys like Kevin Woods around here,it would be hard to duplicate his setup.Thats just a simple example.I am building my 009 with the Aluminum 009 shock set.I start today!See you at the track fast guy and congrats on your bump to the big boy class!
I get what your saying. I just didn't like the way the Xray shocks built and the Tamiya ones are so smooth and a simple build and to get rebound and length precise between shocks. If I ever get to the point I am trying to match someones setup I've got the Xray composite shocks on hand. I may go back to the Xray ones for weight savings at some point with the newer TC ROAR weight limit. The composite shocks are considerably lighter 
08-04-2009, 10:55 AM
#1443
Anyone know an online store that sells the full range of parts for this car with reasonable prices and shipping to asia? Thanks in advance.
08-04-2009, 12:28 PM
#1445
Glad to hear you are running the 009 John, hope it works out well for you. I am biting the bullet and going to do the Xray shocks for a while and just learn to accept how they build. That way maybe I can bug KW for his 13.5 setup. I'll be at the track this weekend prepping for the TOP Gun race...
08-04-2009, 05:14 PM
#1446
08-04-2009, 07:17 PM
#1447
Xray parts are some of the most expensive but it goes hand in hand with their quality. If you want cheap there are plenty of options. I think after initial sticker shock - once you know how well the stuff works and how durable it is you will realize that ongoing expenses are minimal. I went the "cheap" (AE) route with TCs before and spent more because I ended up replacing everything a few times over. Now it's an occasional knuckle.
08-04-2009, 08:27 PM
#1452
08-05-2009, 02:47 AM
#1453
Back to the servo horn at 90* to the steering link comment has anyone managed to achieve this using the servo saver in the "rubber setup" position?
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
08-05-2009, 03:04 AM
#1454
Back to the servo horn at 90* to the steering link comment has anyone managed to achieve this using the servo saver in the "rubber setup" position?
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
I have found it is best when your servo horn is at 90 Degrees with your Link, and at about a 30 Degree angle to the chassis, this gives the most consistent steering feel. And it's how the Xray Manual says to do it
Ryan.
08-05-2009, 03:50 AM
#1455
Back to the servo horn at 90* to the steering link comment has anyone managed to achieve this using the servo saver in the "rubber setup" position?
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
Mine is not 90* using a standard Futaba servo. I think to easiest way to get it to 90* is to shorten the servo link turnbuckle and plastic ball joint. It cannot be made any shorter using the standard parts.
It is difficult to get it exact as you have to allow for the servo spline as well, but with the steering in the center my servo horn does lean forward slightly.
Skiddins