Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5
#481
losing power
was doing what was suggested...does 135 to 150 make a difference compared to the 90 to 100 if so how...not doubting your suggestion just want to know
#483
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Earlier versions would deactivate turbo if you backed off from full throttle even 1%. It was suggested that racers calibrate at 90% and then increase their throttle hi point 5-10% for some dead band at full throttle so flinching at full throttle and any wander in the throttle pot wouldn't result in loss of turbo. The current version 200 software has made this technique unnecessary however as it will not disengage full throttle until you reduce the throttle 5% or more. I verified this using a SpeedPassion brushless motor analyzer. Once the throttle is turned to full throttle the lights continue to flash until the throttle was reduced past 95%.
#484
Turbo would be totally disengaged after 3 minutes or so in the race even though i would do full throttle. The software just didn't see the turbo anymore when i hit full throttle.
Even in the new version v200 it was the case with certain transmitters. I for one had the same issue with v200 as i had with all other versions. When i did the 90% epa, calibrating of the speedo to the transmitter and then bumped it to 100% it was gone and i got turbo for the whole race, not only for a few minutes.
Even in the new version v200 it was the case with certain transmitters. I for one had the same issue with v200 as i had with all other versions. When i did the 90% epa, calibrating of the speedo to the transmitter and then bumped it to 100% it was gone and i got turbo for the whole race, not only for a few minutes.
#485
Hi,
Just got myself a 10R5. I am thinking of running brush motor set up.
If not wrong, the 10R5 is spec for brushless while 12R5 is spec for brush motor. Will it be better/more weight balance if i use the whole 12R5 rear pod? Anyone tired before?
Just got myself a 10R5. I am thinking of running brush motor set up.
If not wrong, the 10R5 is spec for brushless while 12R5 is spec for brush motor. Will it be better/more weight balance if i use the whole 12R5 rear pod? Anyone tired before?
#486
Tech Apprentice
brushed motor
To balance the rear pod for a brush motor you would only need to replace the rear pod upper and lower plates with the ones from a 12R5 (not the 12R5.1). You would then have to shim the hubs to get the proper rear axle width. You could also simply add 1 mm washers between the motor and the bulkhead to move the motor over to the left to get proper balance.
#487
#489
Lipo
I moved the center shock mount over to the left by 8.5 mm which now gives enough room for a lipo. I installed the shock on the other side of the plate to keep it centered. The car is shown with a spec 2400 lipo for a spec class will be starting soon. I plan on taping the battery in place.
Attachment 404868Attachment 404869
Steering Mod
For those of you who hit a lot of boards I found that hitting the inside corner with the wheel turn can force the wheel to get pushed past the a-arm holder nut and jam there. This also ruins tires. I installed short allen screws 3mm x 4mm (3x3 would be better) to serve as steering stops. We race on a very small tight track so there is some bumping going on. The AE RC10R5 is good so far. The front parts seem flexible as I haven't broke anything yet after lots of hitting.
Attachment 404870
Servo
I used a servo with a 35oz.in @ 6V rating on 4 cell and it didn't feel right too slow. I changed it to a stronger Futaba S9650.
I moved the center shock mount over to the left by 8.5 mm which now gives enough room for a lipo. I installed the shock on the other side of the plate to keep it centered. The car is shown with a spec 2400 lipo for a spec class will be starting soon. I plan on taping the battery in place.
Attachment 404868Attachment 404869
Steering Mod
For those of you who hit a lot of boards I found that hitting the inside corner with the wheel turn can force the wheel to get pushed past the a-arm holder nut and jam there. This also ruins tires. I installed short allen screws 3mm x 4mm (3x3 would be better) to serve as steering stops. We race on a very small tight track so there is some bumping going on. The AE RC10R5 is good so far. The front parts seem flexible as I haven't broke anything yet after lots of hitting.
Attachment 404870
Servo
I used a servo with a 35oz.in @ 6V rating on 4 cell and it didn't feel right too slow. I changed it to a stronger Futaba S9650.
Cheers,
Daniel
#490
Tech Addict
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In the pits throwing wrenches at slow cars!
Posts: 548
I have not had a chance to race and test and won't get a chance before heading to the Snowbirds. Nothing like showing up cold! Any suggestions for a Tekin RS in a 10R5? I have X12 and Novak 13.5 to run on TP 1S LiPo's. This turbo ESC stuff has me a little perplexed. I had the car running very well with an SXX and the Ballistic and X12 motor. Just need a place to start as far as roll out and ESC settings.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#493
Contact AE customer service they will send you a replacment.
#494
Help! do I build the sideshock and make a centre shock from a 12L3, TC3 FT or Tamiya F103 (gold shock) (are any the right length and suited to the car's weight?) OR do I build the centre shock and skip the side damper (I'm only running 17.5 4cell on carpet, will I get away with no side damper?) Help!
Thanks
Daniel
#495
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Help! do I build the sideshock and make a centre shock from a 12L3, TC3 FT or Tamiya F103 (gold shock) (are any the right length and suited to the car's weight?) OR do I build the centre shock and skip the side damper (I'm only running 17.5 4cell on carpet, will I get away with no side damper?) Help!
Thanks
Daniel
Thanks
Daniel
Save and build side shock from ae 10R5 and for main center shock use something from TC car with medium spring.
Check my picture: http://abram.eu.org/files/Vilnius_09...0/img_2566.jpg
My car back to asso shock mount and 1S lipo, but bigger shock with
spring 25lb and 30 oil is now set.
Regards!
m.