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Old 12-24-2009, 03:52 PM   #481
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Default losing power

was doing what was suggested...does 135 to 150 make a difference compared to the 90 to 100 if so how...not doubting your suggestion just want to know
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Old 12-24-2009, 03:55 PM   #482
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not sure, i don't see the need to go above 100. maybe i'm missing a new racing secret
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:38 PM   #483
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Earlier versions would deactivate turbo if you backed off from full throttle even 1%. It was suggested that racers calibrate at 90% and then increase their throttle hi point 5-10% for some dead band at full throttle so flinching at full throttle and any wander in the throttle pot wouldn't result in loss of turbo. The current version 200 software has made this technique unnecessary however as it will not disengage full throttle until you reduce the throttle 5% or more. I verified this using a SpeedPassion brushless motor analyzer. Once the throttle is turned to full throttle the lights continue to flash until the throttle was reduced past 95%.
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:46 PM   #484
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Turbo would be totally disengaged after 3 minutes or so in the race even though i would do full throttle. The software just didn't see the turbo anymore when i hit full throttle.

Even in the new version v200 it was the case with certain transmitters. I for one had the same issue with v200 as i had with all other versions. When i did the 90% epa, calibrating of the speedo to the transmitter and then bumped it to 100% it was gone and i got turbo for the whole race, not only for a few minutes.
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:53 AM   #485
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Hi,
Just got myself a 10R5. I am thinking of running brush motor set up.
If not wrong, the 10R5 is spec for brushless while 12R5 is spec for brush motor. Will it be better/more weight balance if i use the whole 12R5 rear pod? Anyone tired before?
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Old 12-25-2009, 06:04 AM   #486
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Default brushed motor

To balance the rear pod for a brush motor you would only need to replace the rear pod upper and lower plates with the ones from a 12R5 (not the 12R5.1). You would then have to shim the hubs to get the proper rear axle width. You could also simply add 1 mm washers between the motor and the bulkhead to move the motor over to the left to get proper balance.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:25 AM   #487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hm, this red lipo pack has some bulbs on bottom side?

I don't know what to do with my SMC 1S lipo which is flat Maybe I glue it
on double tape ... and it stop moving

Any tip for flat packs are welcome
I guess this is the easiest way.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:00 PM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkkom View Post
I guess this is the easiest way.

Thanks for tip, will try it at next event

Regards!
m.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:00 AM   #489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuner EM View Post
Lipo

I moved the center shock mount over to the left by 8.5 mm which now gives enough room for a lipo. I installed the shock on the other side of the plate to keep it centered. The car is shown with a spec 2400 lipo for a spec class will be starting soon. I plan on taping the battery in place.
Attachment 404868Attachment 404869

Steering Mod
For those of you who hit a lot of boards I found that hitting the inside corner with the wheel turn can force the wheel to get pushed past the a-arm holder nut and jam there. This also ruins tires. I installed short allen screws 3mm x 4mm (3x3 would be better) to serve as steering stops. We race on a very small tight track so there is some bumping going on. The AE RC10R5 is good so far. The front parts seem flexible as I haven't broke anything yet after lots of hitting.
Attachment 404870

Servo
I used a servo with a 35oz.in @ 6V rating on 4 cell and it didn't feel right too slow. I changed it to a stronger Futaba S9650.
Can you post a picture of the car with the lipo stick pack down the side? How much weight did you use on the other side and where would it be best placed? thanks

Cheers,
Daniel
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:57 AM   #490
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I have not had a chance to race and test and won't get a chance before heading to the Snowbirds. Nothing like showing up cold! Any suggestions for a Tekin RS in a 10R5? I have X12 and Novak 13.5 to run on TP 1S LiPo's. This turbo ESC stuff has me a little perplexed. I had the car running very well with an SXX and the Ballistic and X12 motor. Just need a place to start as far as roll out and ESC settings.

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #491
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Has any of you had issues with the clamping hub staying tight? I can not keep this thing in place to save my life. Its almost like they didnt remove enough material for it to clamp. Been messing with it for a few weeks hoping it will seat.. Not yet..lol
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:38 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
Has any of you had issues with the clamping hub staying tight? I can not keep this thing in place to save my life. Its almost like they didnt remove enough material for it to clamp. Been messing with it for a few weeks hoping it will seat.. Not yet..lol
Looks like I won't have a running R5 on Sunday. DD sent me the Oval version.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:39 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
Has any of you had issues with the clamping hub staying tight? I can not keep this thing in place to save my life. Its almost like they didnt remove enough material for it to clamp. Been messing with it for a few weeks hoping it will seat.. Not yet..lol
Contact AE customer service they will send you a replacment.
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:16 PM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Looks like I won't have a running R5 on Sunday. DD sent me the Oval version.
Wow, I was worrying the same thing. Fortunately, I got the right version but unfortunately, there was a problem with one of the shocks, so I can only build one of them. They're sending the replacement part but it won't arrive in time for my next race!

Help! do I build the sideshock and make a centre shock from a 12L3, TC3 FT or Tamiya F103 (gold shock) (are any the right length and suited to the car's weight?) OR do I build the centre shock and skip the side damper (I'm only running 17.5 4cell on carpet, will I get away with no side damper?) Help!

Thanks
Daniel
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:15 AM   #495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gramm View Post
Help! do I build the sideshock and make a centre shock from a 12L3, TC3 FT or Tamiya F103 (gold shock) (are any the right length and suited to the car's weight?) OR do I build the centre shock and skip the side damper (I'm only running 17.5 4cell on carpet, will I get away with no side damper?) Help!

Thanks
Daniel

Save and build side shock from ae 10R5 and for main center shock use something from TC car with medium spring.

Check my picture: http://abram.eu.org/files/Vilnius_09...0/img_2566.jpg

My car back to asso shock mount and 1S lipo, but bigger shock with
spring 25lb and 30 oil is now set.


Regards!
m.
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