One-way diff versus CVD's durability
08-02-2003, 10:54 AM
#1
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
One-way diff versus CVD's durability
I'v been briving my HPI Pro2 approx. 3-4 month with a one-way diff. It seems to be hard on the CVD's, they are bent and twisted. I rectified them as good as I could, when it comes to the bent shape. The twisted thing, well, it wont matter much.
Our track is very tough, when one hit the barrier. The guys with shaft cars, they simply brake the CVD's, regardless of plastic, steel or what they else got. They've only been running one-way diffs for a month or so.
The best solution will be not to crash, but I dont crash much anymore. But the few crashes I do have, seems to be enough....
My Pro2 got alu MIP CVD's. If I can get steel ones, will it just be something else that brake?
Another choise is to run a one-way pulley instead, but I'll mis that nice on-power steering, especially since I'm running on a tight and narrow track !
Our track is very tough, when one hit the barrier. The guys with shaft cars, they simply brake the CVD's, regardless of plastic, steel or what they else got. They've only been running one-way diffs for a month or so.
The best solution will be not to crash, but I dont crash much anymore. But the few crashes I do have, seems to be enough....
My Pro2 got alu MIP CVD's. If I can get steel ones, will it just be something else that brake?
Another choise is to run a one-way pulley instead, but I'll mis that nice on-power steering, especially since I'm running on a tight and narrow track !
08-02-2003, 11:01 AM
#2
since I'm not a good driver it happenned a lot on my Yokomo,
but even with small jumps it happened I broke some aluminium ones.
I don't think you will break something else while changing for steel (u can also break them), but I have been told that 1/8 th were using Ti bones to solve the problem (already ordered for the front
)
but even with small jumps it happened I broke some aluminium ones.
I don't think you will break something else while changing for steel (u can also break them), but I have been told that 1/8 th were using Ti bones to solve the problem (already ordered for the front
)
08-02-2003, 12:23 PM
#3
hey cole,
yup, one ways and spools are murder on cvd's. i was running the type t for a few months and it had steel cvd's. i broke two or three in no time. the steel bones may hold up, but the pin can sever. it's very difficult to keep durability when running solid type front ends. perhaps a solution is to run a diff up front , but tighten it down a ton, and use the center one way. the one way will unload under braking , giving you decent off power turn in, but the tight diff will pull the front around on power. it will still be slower this way, but you won't be sidelined as much.
also try to mechanically limit your steering to just more than the car will need. perhaps via some spacers glued to the carriers where the knuckles will contact. often it is hyperextending the cvd that causes the damage.
lata
yup, one ways and spools are murder on cvd's. i was running the type t for a few months and it had steel cvd's. i broke two or three in no time. the steel bones may hold up, but the pin can sever. it's very difficult to keep durability when running solid type front ends. perhaps a solution is to run a diff up front , but tighten it down a ton, and use the center one way. the one way will unload under braking , giving you decent off power turn in, but the tight diff will pull the front around on power. it will still be slower this way, but you won't be sidelined as much.
also try to mechanically limit your steering to just more than the car will need. perhaps via some spacers glued to the carriers where the knuckles will contact. often it is hyperextending the cvd that causes the damage.
lata
08-02-2003, 12:40 PM
#4
Front one ways are tougher on the CVD because if you crash and "launch" the car off the ground, the wheels will keep on spinning. When the car hits the ground again, the spinning wheel will come to a full stop very quickly. Normally I do not run alloy CVDs up front but use steel ones. This will help a lot, but the final solution is still not to crash....but easier said than done!
08-03-2003, 06:12 AM
#5
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Originally posted by dtm
Front one ways are tougher on the CVD because if you crash and "launch" the car off the ground, the wheels will keep on spinning. When the car hits the ground again, the spinning wheel will come to a full stop very quickly. Normally I do not run alloy CVDs up front but use steel ones. This will help a lot, but the final solution is still not to crash....but easier said than done!
Front one ways are tougher on the CVD because if you crash and "launch" the car off the ground, the wheels will keep on spinning. When the car hits the ground again, the spinning wheel will come to a full stop very quickly. Normally I do not run alloy CVDs up front but use steel ones. This will help a lot, but the final solution is still not to crash....but easier said than done!
I also have a problem with a particular corner, if I fail in this corner, I hit the barrier frontally (T-bone!). This will also be very hard on the front CVD's.
08-03-2003, 06:13 AM
#6
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Originally posted by seaball
also try to mechanically limit your steering to just more than the car will need. perhaps via some spacers glued to the carriers where the knuckles will contact. often it is hyperextending the cvd that causes the damage.
also try to mechanically limit your steering to just more than the car will need. perhaps via some spacers glued to the carriers where the knuckles will contact. often it is hyperextending the cvd that causes the damage.
08-03-2003, 06:15 AM
#7
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Originally posted by seaball
perhaps a solution is to run a diff up front , but tighten it down a ton, and use the center one way. the one way will unload under braking , giving you decent off power turn in, but the tight diff will pull the front around on power. it will still be slower this way, but you won't be sidelined as much.
perhaps a solution is to run a diff up front , but tighten it down a ton, and use the center one way. the one way will unload under braking , giving you decent off power turn in, but the tight diff will pull the front around on power. it will still be slower this way, but you won't be sidelined as much.
And an advantage of using a ball diff, is that I can use the graphite outdrives, which save some rotating mass. If they just can stand the crashes ...
08-03-2003, 06:17 AM
#8
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Seaball, by the way, your signature is nice: an error doesn't become a mistake until you refuse to correct it.
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