5LikesTamiya TB-03
03-26-2011, 10:40 PM
#1906
Tech Initiate
yes i asked a similar one, but not regarding the replacement. thanks for the reply and i will look into it.
take care.
take care.
03-28-2011, 07:19 AM
#1907
Hey Guys,
Any good first hand experience w/ the Spec-R gear diff? Pros? Cons?
Looking for a low (no) maintenance alternative to the ball diffs I currently run. I just don't have much free time (job, wife, kid) to spend rebuilding the ball diffs.
For those in the know, oil wt suggestions would also be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
SoCal
Any good first hand experience w/ the Spec-R gear diff? Pros? Cons?
Looking for a low (no) maintenance alternative to the ball diffs I currently run. I just don't have much free time (job, wife, kid) to spend rebuilding the ball diffs.
For those in the know, oil wt suggestions would also be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
SoCal
03-31-2011, 09:52 PM
#1908
Hi Socal,
do also use meanwhile the Spec-R-diff in rear, front spool with 17,5t no boost brushless setup. The diff is really cool, began now with #1000 diff oil.
For my taste it seems at the moment sligthly to tight, so I will simply try next time WT80 LRP shock oil, as I have lying it here around.
The only drawback I noticed here in Germany is, that maybe a batch of outdrives is very raw in the slots, so it eats the plastic blades like shit. A guy showed some photos, they didnīt even last 1 battery run. So I grinded mine slightly with 400 and 800 grinding paper. Up to now I have no problems after the mod.
If you order, be aware that you need the plastic blades for the cardans as in the 416. As I didnīt know this, I had to order twice...
Another tip: If you grease the paper sealing with Tamiya aw grease, you can use them several times, it stays oil tight.
Actually, I tend to order a second one (for the front) for testing with very tight diff oil, to get something in between the spool and the ball diff...
BR,
Matthias
do also use meanwhile the Spec-R-diff in rear, front spool with 17,5t no boost brushless setup. The diff is really cool, began now with #1000 diff oil.
For my taste it seems at the moment sligthly to tight, so I will simply try next time WT80 LRP shock oil, as I have lying it here around.
The only drawback I noticed here in Germany is, that maybe a batch of outdrives is very raw in the slots, so it eats the plastic blades like shit. A guy showed some photos, they didnīt even last 1 battery run. So I grinded mine slightly with 400 and 800 grinding paper. Up to now I have no problems after the mod.
If you order, be aware that you need the plastic blades for the cardans as in the 416. As I didnīt know this, I had to order twice...
Another tip: If you grease the paper sealing with Tamiya aw grease, you can use them several times, it stays oil tight.
Actually, I tend to order a second one (for the front) for testing with very tight diff oil, to get something in between the spool and the ball diff...
BR,
Matthias
04-01-2011, 06:42 AM
#1909
Ruebiracer,
Wie geht es dir?
Thanks for your input; I'm going to give them a try.
What plastic blades are you referring to?
Danke schön!
SoCal
BTW: Have been to Germany twice (Munich); absolutely beautiful Country!
Wie geht es dir?
Thanks for your input; I'm going to give them a try.
What plastic blades are you referring to?
SoCal
BTW: Have been to Germany twice (Munich); absolutely beautiful Country!
04-02-2011, 02:18 AM
#1910
Hey Socal,
thanks for greetings in German!
Actually, I live around 360 km north from Munich, but still in Bavaria.
You need to attach some plastic c-clips called blades on the dogbone end of your cardans, to get them to fit to the spec R Diff. The Tamiya no. is 53890,
around 5 here in Germany for 4 pcs.. It should in fact reduce the wear between dogbones and outdrives, so your mneed for maintenance should be reduced even further!
Have a nice day and good success with your TB03!
BR, Matthias
thanks for greetings in German!
Actually, I live around 360 km north from Munich, but still in Bavaria.
You need to attach some plastic c-clips called blades on the dogbone end of your cardans, to get them to fit to the spec R Diff. The Tamiya no. is 53890,
around 5 here in Germany for 4 pcs.. It should in fact reduce the wear between dogbones and outdrives, so your mneed for maintenance should be reduced even further!
Have a nice day and good success with your TB03!
BR, Matthias
04-02-2011, 10:46 AM
#1911
Ruebiracer,
I kinda figured that was what you were referring to; I already use them (-:
Cheers,
SoCal
I kinda figured that was what you were referring to; I already use them (-:
Cheers,
SoCal
04-06-2011, 01:16 PM
#1912
Meanwhile I figured out, that my rear end is a bit more settled, by filling the spec r diff with 80wt shock oil instead of 1000 gear diff oil.
Running spool in front, lower grip dusty tarmac road...
The diff feels really good turning it.
Definitely best invention of the last years for touring cars regarding maintenance...
Best regards,
Matthias
Running spool in front, lower grip dusty tarmac road...
The diff feels really good turning it.
Definitely best invention of the last years for touring cars regarding maintenance...
Best regards,
Matthias
04-07-2011, 07:48 AM
#1913
Me again,
taking some great infos in this thread so far.
Now I have a special question to Timmy, if he is still active in this thread at the moment:
Was looking at your Low traction tarmac setting: Regarding Anti Squat in rear you use the XA block supported by 2 mm spacers (3mm Manual) and 1 mm under the E-Block (0mm Manual). As it looks for me, manual is 0° Anti squat, so your setup should give a negative Anti Squat in rear? As far as I know, a positive Anti squat in rear is more common?
Can you explain shortly, what you gained by this?
Hope you read this some day,
BR, Matthias
taking some great infos in this thread so far.
Now I have a special question to Timmy, if he is still active in this thread at the moment:
Was looking at your Low traction tarmac setting: Regarding Anti Squat in rear you use the XA block supported by 2 mm spacers (3mm Manual) and 1 mm under the E-Block (0mm Manual). As it looks for me, manual is 0° Anti squat, so your setup should give a negative Anti Squat in rear? As far as I know, a positive Anti squat in rear is more common?
Can you explain shortly, what you gained by this?
Hope you read this some day,
BR, Matthias
04-29-2011, 06:35 AM
#1914
This thread has been way too quiet 
I'll throw out a real basic question;
With the TRF shocks, tarmac w/ medium bite, suggest a good starting point for shock oil weight and spring stiffness. I had my car set up pretty good from prior info I took from this forum, but can't remember for the life of me what it was
Stupid me for not keeping a setup sheet.
Thanks!!!
SoCal
I'll throw out a real basic question;
With the TRF shocks, tarmac w/ medium bite, suggest a good starting point for shock oil weight and spring stiffness. I had my car set up pretty good from prior info I took from this forum, but can't remember for the life of me what it was
Stupid me for not keeping a setup sheet.Thanks!!!
SoCal
04-29-2011, 05:47 PM
#1915
Hey do you guys run the aluminum 48pitch adapter because my stock plastic one keeps moving my motor and striping my spur
04-30-2011, 11:04 AM
#1916
Tech Rookie
I picked up a TB-03 this week to get back into the hobby after a 4-5 year break. Used to just do some mild off-road racing and bashing, decided it was time to try some on-road stuff.
I'm debating right now but I think I'm going to make the TB-03 into a drift car and see how I like it then either pickup a TB03 VDS or just stick with the reg TB03, anyway So far I've got a Sidwinder2 ESC and 1406 5700kv motor, some 5200mah 2s 30c Lipos, have the car partially assembled but waiting for my order from rcmart before I put it fully together - Here's what i have for hop-up's so far, figure I'll give this a try and see what works and what needs fixing and then maybe look at more, if anyone has other recommendations I'd be happy to hear them!
Yeah Racing Aluminum Battery Plate Shaft Set
3Racing Alum Front and Rear Damper Set
3Racing Universal Shaft (F+R)
3Racing 7075 Differential Shaft (For front)
Tamiya (#53842) TA05 Stabilizer Set (F & R)
Tamiya (#54093) TB-03 Aluminum Heat Sink
Tamiya (#54094) TB03 Aluminum Spur Gear Mount
Tamiya (#54098) TB-03 Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Gear Case)
Tamiya (#54125) TB03D Direct Coupling (Rear)
Looking for suggestions on Springs for drifting if anyone has any as well as gearing.
(Doh just realized I missed the prop shaft and joints, guess I'll need to fix that).
I'm debating right now but I think I'm going to make the TB-03 into a drift car and see how I like it then either pickup a TB03 VDS or just stick with the reg TB03, anyway So far I've got a Sidwinder2 ESC and 1406 5700kv motor, some 5200mah 2s 30c Lipos, have the car partially assembled but waiting for my order from rcmart before I put it fully together - Here's what i have for hop-up's so far, figure I'll give this a try and see what works and what needs fixing and then maybe look at more, if anyone has other recommendations I'd be happy to hear them!
Yeah Racing Aluminum Battery Plate Shaft Set
3Racing Alum Front and Rear Damper Set
3Racing Universal Shaft (F+R)
3Racing 7075 Differential Shaft (For front)
Tamiya (#53842) TA05 Stabilizer Set (F & R)
Tamiya (#54093) TB-03 Aluminum Heat Sink
Tamiya (#54094) TB03 Aluminum Spur Gear Mount
Tamiya (#54098) TB-03 Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Gear Case)
Tamiya (#54125) TB03D Direct Coupling (Rear)
Looking for suggestions on Springs for drifting if anyone has any as well as gearing.
(Doh just realized I missed the prop shaft and joints, guess I'll need to fix that).
05-03-2011, 04:08 PM
#1917
Diff issues
Hi Guys,
So I tried the Spec-R gear diffs in my TB03; stripped all the internal gears on the first pack )-: I'm guessing my 9000 kV brushless setup was a bit hot for them to handle flying up and down my street.
Anyway, I recall seeing a mod some you you have done on the standard ball diff using parts from a different Tamiya model to strengthen it up a bit. Would someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction, as I'm getting pretty frustrated with the diff constantly loosening up on me.
Thanks again!
SoCal
So I tried the Spec-R gear diffs in my TB03; stripped all the internal gears on the first pack )-: I'm guessing my 9000 kV brushless setup was a bit hot for them to handle flying up and down my street.
Anyway, I recall seeing a mod some you you have done on the standard ball diff using parts from a different Tamiya model to strengthen it up a bit. Would someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction, as I'm getting pretty frustrated with the diff constantly loosening up on me.
Thanks again!
SoCal
05-06-2011, 07:34 AM
#1918
Run spool on the front, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54125
Rear ball diff, put these outdrives http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54056
and expensive ceramic diff balls http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42142
and see if you can find 2x25mm diff adjustment screw in higher grade material such as titanium.
Rear ball diff, put these outdrives http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54056
and expensive ceramic diff balls http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42142
and see if you can find 2x25mm diff adjustment screw in higher grade material such as titanium.
05-08-2011, 05:57 PM
#1919
Superspeed,
Thanks for the suggestions. I've tried the first three prior to going the the gear diff; was just looking for a more maintenance free option. I just find that the ball diff loosens up on me and becomes "gritty" feeling a bit to quick for my liking. With a 4 year old daughter my free time for diff maintenance is a bit of an issue.
Thanks again,
SoCal
Thanks for the suggestions. I've tried the first three prior to going the the gear diff; was just looking for a more maintenance free option. I just find that the ball diff loosens up on me and becomes "gritty" feeling a bit to quick for my liking. With a 4 year old daughter my free time for diff maintenance is a bit of an issue.
Thanks again,
SoCal
05-13-2011, 08:23 PM
#1920
This chassis is a very good club racer