EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Mine would not setup either until I hooked a motor up to it. Make sure you set them type of motor first though (Brushed or BL). Then connect a motor and it will setup correctly. I fought for about 15 minutes before I tried that and it worked perfectly after that.

EA

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I just picked up an RS from your ebay shop, seems like everyone is on back order until earliest july except you.

Geezatec

Motor has to be connected Br or BL for it to chime or beep on setup. Set up motor, BL or Br(LED6), Do this with wheels off the ground or w/o pinion gear, The won't take off on ya.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

I just got my RS Speedo - can't believe how tiny this thing is!

Can't wait to try it tomorrow - I'll give a full report afterwards.

Kropy

iTrader: (12)

How's Florida treatin' ya

ottoman

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Eric but I had my Novak 4.5 hooked up the whole time
I didnt scroll through to verify it was set on brushless but I did do a "Factory reset" that should have put the default (brushless) setting in...
Going to start over from scratch tomorrow.

Today my Hotwire arrived but now I find it wont load onto my track lap top with windows 2000 more money to Mr Gates

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

dbl post

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Ottoman:

Hit me up at [email protected] and I will help you with your setup issue. I've been pretty succesful helping others.

I don't use a futaba but talking with you about we will get it to work together.

Like the others said, first thing is to do a factory reset and start fresh. Make sure to have your ABS or any other "extra" radio feature turned off. We need to see a good nuetral first(which your sounds like it does) the next thing is full throttle. Some radios like the Futba's can go further then we like to "see" when the epa's are maxed out. Try running 100 on both epa's.

Both the Futaba 3pk's and Spektrum Dx series radios can often put full throttle slightly out of our range and we simply disregard it. So if you want to see if this is what is happening to you , either run your epa at some obsurd amount like 70% and see if it will cal. If it does then you know that this is your issue.

I can run 140 and 160 on my trusty M8 but when I tried to run a DX3R it wouldn't allow me to max out the Epa's on that radio. I had to go back to 100 and 100.

Let me know. I check my e-mail more then I check the boards.

Randy

ottoman

iTrader: (13)

Randy thanks for the help!
I will give it a try first and email you if I have any issues

InspGadgt

Yay my Hotwire is on the way Now just to figure out what to do with it

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Let's talk settings! Here are some of my findings:

I ran the following last night:

Novak 10.5, 12 timing (default for 10.5), 4.8 FDR, hybrid mode = 170 degrees. Pretty good performance but slower on the straight-away then a lot of guys.

Novak 10.5, 12 timing (default for 10.5), 4.8 FDR, sensored only mode = 195 degrees. Performance seemed about the same but I faded big time towards the end of the race which is to be expected at that temp.

Another guy I race with runs the following which I will try my next race

Novak 10.5, 0 timing, 4.9 FDR, sensored only mode = 155 degrees and he has a lot more speed then me.

The weird thing is that my motor was 25 degrees hotter in sensored only more. The other guy is 40 degrees cooler then me in sensored only vs my temp in sensored only mode. The only differences being he is running pro and Im not, Im running 12 timing and he is running 0 and he is running 4.7 FDR vs my 4.8 (which you would think the 4.7 would be hotter). Obviously difference driving styles plays a role too but 40 degrees seems like a lot.

dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

I am no genius and can only speculate but Timing equals more heat if you turned your timing down the heat would go away. Turn timing down and gear up.

Fred_B

iTrader: (1)

How was the timing set on your motor compared to his in sensored only mode? Zero timing in sensored only mode still has the motor timing that's set on the timing ring. The other guy might have the timing set totally different on the motor.

I had pretty good luck setting the timing/gear like DArnold described earlier. Set the timing to zero on the motor and speedo to 12 (hybrid mode) and gear the motor to get about 150 degrees (or whatever you're comfortable with). Once you have that gear set, start turning up the timing to get the speed that you need on the straight (should just rev out at the end).

You should be within a tooth or so if you use that technique.

I always run the timing on the motor at zero if it's in hybrid mode because it launches better for me. Once it's moving a little it switches to sensorless and won't go back to sensored unless you stop or go really slow. Did the same thing with the SP speedo.

In the end, just set your gearing by lap time and go from there. If it falls off at the end of the run you're overgeared. If the lap times are ok, and you need more speed, try gearing up a tooth and turning the timing down a little. Timing can control the heat a little because it moves the powerband around.

With a long straight, you might end up with the timing almost all the way up by the time it's all said and done.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

We both have zero timing in the motor. Its 150 ft straight so pretty long. Actually its a 150 ft straight, a 105 ft straight with a 180 turn on the end followed by a 80 ft straight before it goes into a slightly technical section. Lots of high speed sections.

The other guy by the way is a Tekin team driver so Im letting him experiment more then me...

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

I guess the most important stat was that I finished only a second behind a US Indoor Champs A-mainer. So I guess I wasnt too far off I still felt much slower then him though. My car was a lot more dialed but slower...