Advices on tb01
#91
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by blixelX
there are laydown, stand up, LR, SR, etc... what r all these means...??
there are laydown, stand up, LR, SR, etc... what r all these means...??
They have 1 side which is longer than it is wide.
In the old days, brushes were all mounted with their longer side
parallel to the armature's shaft. These are known as "stand up".
In recent years, some motors have the brushes mounted 90degs,
these are called "laydown".
Because new brushes usually come with the "C" curved end
already cut into them, you need different brushes for each type
so the brush contacts the comm properly.
Dunno re LR, SR...?
Brushes also come in different materials. Usually its a combination
of copper and silver; silver is better for passing current but it is
harsher on your comm and will chew comms up faster.
#92
Originally posted by blixelX
Hi everyone... i hav a stupid question again...
read some threads that said about the motor types, there are laydown, stand up, LR, SR, etc... what r all these means...??
can any1 explain to me? Thankx...
Hi everyone... i hav a stupid question again...
read some threads that said about the motor types, there are laydown, stand up, LR, SR, etc... what r all these means...??
can any1 explain to me? Thankx...
#93
LR and SR are the specific type of Yokomo motors...laydown and stand up are the type of brush...laydown is flat (ish) and standup is standing up
#94
Originally posted by davioh
LR and SR are the specific type of Yokomo motors...laydown and stand up are the type of brush...laydown is flat (ish) and standup is standing up
LR and SR are the specific type of Yokomo motors...laydown and stand up are the type of brush...laydown is flat (ish) and standup is standing up
#95
hi... seems like my previous question is too stupid, coz no one wanna spend time to answer me...
anyway, i hav another question here... i found out that my car is not going in straight line... it will side abit to right when i had a right turn and side abit to left when had a left turn... what i did is after a right turn, i will turn a bit to left to make the steering straight... am i confusing u guys???
will this be the servo problem? or my car's setup got problem???
anyway, i hav another question here... i found out that my car is not going in straight line... it will side abit to right when i had a right turn and side abit to left when had a left turn... what i did is after a right turn, i will turn a bit to left to make the steering straight... am i confusing u guys???
will this be the servo problem? or my car's setup got problem???
#96
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by blixelX
hi... seems like my previous question is too stupid, coz no one wanna spend time to answer me...
hi... seems like my previous question is too stupid, coz no one wanna spend time to answer me...
There is no 100% "better" way to sit your brush, best try both.
There are pros & cons with both styles.
However its usually not possible to back-to-back testing with the
same model of motor unless you change the brush hoods etc with
another different type motor.
On top of that, there are now "fat comms" to play with too!
(commutators which are Big Berthas compared to normal)
anyway, i hav another question here... i found out that my car is not going in straight line... it will side abit to right when i had a right turn and side abit to left when had a left turn... what i did is after a right turn, i will turn a bit to left to make the steering straight... am i confusing u guys???
Rebuild your steering, checking for freeplay in all the linkage.
Usually the ballcups would have worn a bit, and the arms etc
have a bit of shake. You can either space them better with
washers etc and pack some teflon plumbers tape on the
balljoints.
#97
thz wc... will try to re-assemble again... anyway, i had a spare servo (used with msc) which come with the remote control, and i tried it, its seems better...
yah... i had lost a ball bearing, can i replace it by a bushing (plastic)?? its at the wheel axle there... any1 know is there any place in s'pore got sell ball bearing seperately? means just few pieces?? thz...
yah... i had lost a ball bearing, can i replace it by a bushing (plastic)?? its at the wheel axle there... any1 know is there any place in s'pore got sell ball bearing seperately? means just few pieces?? thz...
Last edited by blixelX; 07-29-2003 at 07:42 PM.
#98
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Any hobbyshop in S'pore should be able to sell you a loose 1150
bearing (OD 11mm, ID 5mm) as its a commonest Tamiya size.
Don't pay more than S$5 per piece!!
Where did you get the plastic bushing from??
Its harder to buy these (spare), and to find loose 1150s.
Ya you can use them temporarily, for some performance loss.
I usually carry some in my toolbox just in case I lose/destroy a
bearing at the track then at least its better than nothing.
bearing (OD 11mm, ID 5mm) as its a commonest Tamiya size.
Don't pay more than S$5 per piece!!
Where did you get the plastic bushing from??
Its harder to buy these (spare), and to find loose 1150s.
Ya you can use them temporarily, for some performance loss.
I usually carry some in my toolbox just in case I lose/destroy a
bearing at the track then at least its better than nothing.
#99
hey man, the plastic bushing is fr my fren's tl01... so does the s'wan at orchard plaza selling seperately?? told by some ppl that those ball bearing will only sell in whole set... and its not cheap...
#100
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Haha, yes S'wan should sell them loose; try ask at the counter.
Just buy any no-name metal-shielded ones, don't need "original"
Tamiya ones. Anything that fits the hole will work fine.
I don't know what is usual price for loose ones, probably around
$2-4 is reasonable. Maybe even up to $5 for single ones if you
only want 1pc... you'll spend more $$ travelling elsewhere, rite?
Just buy any no-name metal-shielded ones, don't need "original"
Tamiya ones. Anything that fits the hole will work fine.
I don't know what is usual price for loose ones, probably around
$2-4 is reasonable. Maybe even up to $5 for single ones if you
only want 1pc... you'll spend more $$ travelling elsewhere, rite?
#101
Originally posted by WC
Haha, yes S'wan should sell them loose; try ask at the counter.
Just buy any no-name metal-shielded ones, don't need "original"
Tamiya ones. Anything that fits the hole will work fine.
I don't know what is usual price for loose ones, probably around
$2-4 is reasonable. Maybe even up to $5 for single ones if you
only want 1pc... you'll spend more $$ travelling elsewhere, rite?
Haha, yes S'wan should sell them loose; try ask at the counter.
Just buy any no-name metal-shielded ones, don't need "original"
Tamiya ones. Anything that fits the hole will work fine.
I don't know what is usual price for loose ones, probably around
$2-4 is reasonable. Maybe even up to $5 for single ones if you
only want 1pc... you'll spend more $$ travelling elsewhere, rite?
#102
hi... i hav a question regarding the gearing... the gear ratio may same when having bigger spur or smaller pinion... which 1 is better? ok... just for example, having a 78T spur with 30T pinion will hav almost the same gear rayio with having 88T spur with 34T pinion... which 1 should we choose??
#103
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by blixelX
hi... i hav a question regarding the gearing... the gear ratio may same when having bigger spur or smaller pinion... which 1 is better? ok... just for example, having a 78T spur with 30T pinion will hav almost the same gear rayio with having 88T spur with 34T pinion... which 1 should we choose??
hi... i hav a question regarding the gearing... the gear ratio may same when having bigger spur or smaller pinion... which 1 is better? ok... just for example, having a 78T spur with 30T pinion will hav almost the same gear rayio with having 88T spur with 34T pinion... which 1 should we choose??
(there's another thread that's just appeared on this, asking if 2 big spur/pinion is better than 2 small spur/pinion with the same ratio... but honestly speaking, one should have better things to worry about in life than that.)
Same like on your "21 speed" bicycle... there's 21 different possible ratios, a few of which are pretty much "same" ratio as another combination. You really only use about 5-6 combinations of those gears in general riding anyway.
#104
Originally posted by WC
imho, really makes no difference.
(there's another thread that's just appeared on this, asking if 2 big spur/pinion is better than 2 small spur/pinion with the same ratio... but honestly speaking, one should have better things to worry about in life than that.)
Same like on your "21 speed" bicycle... there's 21 different possible ratios, a few of which are pretty much "same" ratio as another combination. You really only use about 5-6 combinations of those gears in general riding anyway.
imho, really makes no difference.
(there's another thread that's just appeared on this, asking if 2 big spur/pinion is better than 2 small spur/pinion with the same ratio... but honestly speaking, one should have better things to worry about in life than that.)
Same like on your "21 speed" bicycle... there's 21 different possible ratios, a few of which are pretty much "same" ratio as another combination. You really only use about 5-6 combinations of those gears in general riding anyway.
1 more doubt is regarding the battery... i am using Ni-mh battery... do i need to use the batt till flat then charge or i can just charge it when the performance hav dropped??
#105
Hey Blixelx,
I noticed that most of your queries are tending to cover pretty general topics. You might want to check out the 'rookie zone' threads as I'm pretty sure most of your answers can be found there.
Cheers.
I noticed that most of your queries are tending to cover pretty general topics. You might want to check out the 'rookie zone' threads as I'm pretty sure most of your answers can be found there.
Cheers.