intimidator

Has anyone noticed binding in the rear pod from side to side?I took my car apart and noticed when both the plastic links are on the pod almost clicks when you move it.When you remove one link its smooth.I discovered the links seem a bit too long,so I bent them both a little ,put both on bent to shorten the length and is smooth again.Didnt like fact that bent links arent accurate so I replaced them with Serpent hardware ant Ti turnbuckles.Anyone else notice this?Does my gearing sound correct for a 19 turn brushed with a 88/33 on small track,88/39 on large track.Should I pay attention to motor temp with a brushed motor?Does anyone ever run the rear pod not level with chassis,and last but not least how much droop to run on a bumpy track,how much on smooth track,1 mil. on smooth maybe tad more on rough 1.2/2 mil????Really enjoying 12th scale started with L4,nice break from nitro.Thanks in advance for answers,Tim Smith.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

Roadkill,

when you put the pod together independent of the rest of the car (just the top and bottom graphite pieces and the two aluminum side plates), does it assemble so that it's flat on the bottom? (IE does the pod itself sit on a flat surface without wobbling or being twisted?). I suspect that your center pivot point is out of alignment. The two side links are a fixed length so those can't really go wrong. Assuming that your pod will assemble flat (off the car), then the thing to do is to leave the screws that fasten the center pivot loose and to snap the pod in place with the two out links. That establishes the front to back position of the pod as it relates to the main chassis plate. Then the center pivot (still loose) can find it's own orientation so that it lines itself up with the two outer pivots (which are non-adjustable). Once it's lined up, then that's the time to tighten up the screws that fasten the center pivot's plastic holder. If that plastic holder is too far one way, the pod will feel tight when you rock the pod side to side. And if it's too far the other way, the pod will have a distinct notchy feel to it when rocked side to side. When the holder is in the right spot (which is a sensitive adjustment and takes some patience to find the sweet spot), then the pod should feel smooth and free in both the side to side movement and it's front to back tilting movement. From what you've described, I'm guessing that your center pivot is way out of alignment. But the first thing to check is to fasten the 4 pieces of the pod together by themselves and without the rest of the car to see if the pod itself goes together flat. Assuming that it does (and with new parts it should), then the issue you've described is probably misalignment of the center pivot (which is adjustable and will slide forwards or backwards due to the oblong holes for the attachment screws that hold it in place). hope this helps. when adjusted properly, the R5 is an awesome car.

speedy-932

Hi,

@intimidator: Binding can happen but normally it doesn't come from the links but from the center pivot ball. Check that one with new links and everything should be fine. As the links are molded the tolerances in length should be quite close.

Cheers
Chris

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

I believe it is critical that every pivot ball moves freely on that car. Or any car really!

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Just thought i'd expand on the answers that hafve been posted here...

The binding you noticed is an issue with the side link/center pivot styl;e suspension. in the original '94 CRC/Speedmerchant carpet knife, and in the Speedmerchant kits from back then to this day you remove "click" over center by shortening the side links, while trying to maintain equal length. If instead of the center "click", you notice the pod wants to stay centered and is hard to rol to the sides, the side links are too short, and you lengthen them slightly. Ideally, you want no click feel at the center, and as little abind as possible going to either side. The reason for the adjustable side links was that the center pivot housing position on these cars is fixed.

I don't remember when CRC and Speedmerchant went their separate ways, but at some point Frank found a more convenient way to get the linkage lengths correct... one piece molded side links and an adjustable center pivot. In the CRC design (and now the R5 as well) you don't tighten the center pivot into position until after the side links are installed. No more worries that you'll get the side links unequal and cause the car to go down the track slightly skewed... best way to accomplish this is to take the wheels off the car, loosen the center pivot housing, get the chassis flat on a board and thenj tighten the center pivot housing down. Feel the pod motion (best done with the side shock removed). Loosen and then retighten the center pivot housing again if necessary.

The advantage to the CRC and R5 way is that it's easier to get a bind free pod and impossible to get the side links unequal. The car stays square.

You can fix the problem like you did with adjustable side links, but myself I'd go back to the fixed side links and readjust the center pivot housing. With my Speedmerchant chassis I'd always wonder if the car was perfectly square. With the CRC's and R5 it was never a worry.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

oops

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I noticed when I had my CRC that the molded Side Links had to be replaced regularly as they were prone to tweaking or wallowing the holes a little themselves, plus you have to watch the wear of the aluminum balls they attached to as well.

I think the 10/12R5 molded links are better than CRC's since it is more closely related to the SpeedMerchant type, using a larger ball/eyelink allowing for a higher tolerance fit that will not wear quickly, and they will not flex much at all laterally compared to the CRC's molded link, which flex's right from the start.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

I thought the R5 rear setup was very impressive, like you said, the CRC side links did get sloppy on me as well, and pretty quickly. I think a big part of it in addition to the smaller balls, was that the side links on the CRC's are so short. They go through a bigger angular change with chassis roll and have to put more pressure on the balls when that happens. Associated's R5 side links were longer, so less pressure on the balls as the chassis rolls. A side benefit to this is there's a bigger "sweet spot" in getting the center pivot right... Seems like I had more latitude with the R5 on the adjustment to get the ideal no click on center and no bind at the ends. If the side links do ever get sloppy on the balls, you have the ability to snug them a bit with the screws.

Really the best of everything right there.

The Lycan

I've been reading threads on rctech for the last month. After an 8 year break from rc racing, I've decided to start racing again this year. I always liked 1/12 scale and the sedans seem like too much right now. I've been doing research on whether I should go tbar or link and have decided to go link with the AE12R5. Though, I do have some questions before I pull the trigger since I have to buy new everything. I've been reading and spoke to a racer at my local track that link cars aren't consistent from week to week. Does this hold true with the AE12R5? My concern is that I don't want to have to chase setup each weekend at my home track. Is it necessary to buy the brushless parts if I am going to run a brushless motor? Thanks for your help in advance.

Fred_B

iTrader: (1)

Your pinion size is going to depend on tire size along with the track size. I have run all the way from about 31 to 48 on the pinion so there's no "exact" one to start with. I'd start with about a 2.50 inch rollout on a bigger track and go from there.


I'm actually running a 78 spur at the moment because I end up switching between 17.5 and 13.5 depending on where I race and what we feel like that day.

If you need a rollout chart let me know and I'll make up a spreadsheet real quick if you have Excel.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

does anyone have an r5 for sale or know someone that has one forsale?

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

if you have office installed right you can use this

http://www.rc50.com/media/roll12.htm

or not this

http://www.rc50.com/media/roll12.pdf

intimidator

Wow you guys kick ass,what kinda crap is that ,that they dont tell you in the manual that the center ball is adjustable????Vafactor is correct the holder that retains the nuts is 1 mil. longer so the nut can slide forward or backwards.I looked really close after my last race because I thought it should be adjustable,guess my eyes cant tell a mil. of difference.So from now on I am gonna remove the deal that holds the springs and check that frequently.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

It is mentioned in the manual, on page 5 Step 2.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

In my opinion, the link cars are VERY consistent from week to week. If the track conditions don't change, the car stays fine. On the other hand, my experience with t-bar cars is that they tend to change over time as the t-bars wear, and the change can be so subtle that you don't notice it happening, you just get a tiny bit slower each run and can't quite put your finger on what's wrong.

I didn't have my R5 long enough to say of it stayed consistent from week to week, I only had it out to race once, then had to sell it. Not that I thought anything was wrong with it, at the time my track had no R5 parts in stock and I prefer to race a car with lots of parts support at the track.

Associated does make a newer pod for the car that is more suited to brushless motors, but it's not a necessity. The kit as it comes is pretty brushless friendly. The only thing the optional pod does is move the motor a few mm to get it perfectly centered on the car's centerline. I've run brushless in sesveral cars and only one of them had the motor dead center. I can't say it's much difference if any.