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Old 05-09-2008, 08:22 AM
  #256  
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is the front suspension as hard as the older front end?
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:22 AM
  #257  
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The new parts are made from the new softer plastic but they don't seem to twist or anything.

The only parts that I needed to work on were the balls in the lower arms and the steeting blocks. Nothing out of the ordinary. I just squeezed the arm and ran a drill bit thru the blocks. No biggie and it only took a few minutes.

The pivot balls are a fine line between tight and loose. I'd rather have them tight and sand a little off than have them loose and sloppy. Rumor is they're going to make them a little better in the next batch.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:47 AM
  #258  
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Ok Let me make sure i understand this. I can understand working the inside of the holes of the pivot balls to make sure the kingpin slides through it for suspension travel and making the spring do the work with no bind. But is the lower arm that different then the old one in that all the bottom pivot ball does is rotate fore and aft to locate caster angle.... after the kingpin is installed in the upper pivot those balls do not move only the kingpin slides through them for up down suspension travel. Why do those pivot balls need to be smooth on the outside? Thier fixed and do not move after the kingpin is installed right? Dont flame me if i dont know what Im talking about cause I am just basing what Im saying on my 12L4 and what those pivot balls do. Thanks Guys
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:51 AM
  #259  
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I'm not sure the R5 has reactive castor like the L4 did, but it would seem as though when the suspension compresses, the lower pivot would need to be free to allow the kingpin to provide the change in castor smoothly. The same concept would apply to the minor amount of camber gain the kingpin experiences when the suspension compresses.
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Old 05-09-2008, 11:29 AM
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The balls need to be free because of the reactive caster and camber gain just like the old L4 front end.

A quick spin in the dremel and/or a good squeese with a pair of pliars and you're good to go.
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Old 05-09-2008, 11:41 AM
  #261  
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There has been an adjustment made to the lower arms. Just call AE customer support and they will send you a replacement set.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:13 PM
  #262  
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Thats good to hear Sean. For me guys I am the most anal car builder out there. Most people would be happy with their front end in 1/4 the time I spend on it. It probably dosnt mean much but if there is any play or bind at all in the front end I will scrap parts and start over. Thats why I take so long to get it free. If I go to fast and do to much there is to much slop for me.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:47 PM
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A quick spin in the dremel and/or a good squeese with a pair of pliars and you're good to go.[/QUOTE]

And this wasnt the case with the lower A arms in the new 12R5 kit. Im sure they got it figured out now.
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Old 05-09-2008, 04:41 PM
  #264  
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I am just finishing up the build. This is my first 1/12 scale car. Question about battery install. Is there a battery holder? Do we tape them in?
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Old 05-09-2008, 05:05 PM
  #265  
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Tape
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:43 AM
  #266  
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yeah, the R5 uses tape, but i wouldve liked an o ring option as well, its a lot neater looking
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:25 PM
  #267  
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ive seen one of these cars run, 8.0 out of 10.???
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:35 PM
  #268  
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Finally got around to building mine after getting it about a month ago. All I can say is this thing is SWEET! I had NONE of the build issues described here and I am an anal builder too. Great job Bob!
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:24 AM
  #269  
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any pictures?
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Old 05-16-2008, 10:45 PM
  #270  
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I need a steering servo for my R5. The servo from my 12LC is a tad too wide and the servo horn does not center down the center line of chassis. Any suggestions, preferably Futaba servos
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