chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Seaball....u lookin for more alloy diffs?..what are u up to now.I do have some too.Not many.I also got some HD ones too.It'll never break...

Hello WeekendRacer,

Good to see that u got urs..the Gt3 so far..it's awesome to drive.This car is made for carpet racing..here.Strong chassis..

seaball

iTrader: (9)

chrisman,

i'm always playin'. i really think the aluminum outs are the way to go because they run so true. no vibrations at high speeds. i know my delrin ones, and and the type b's are good, but when i spin them w/o belts connected, they rotate well, but there's always a spot that they settle into. not because of weight, but because bearings want to snap the outdrives into a perfectly straight alignment. the aluminums are perfect, but they wear like a civ if you don't use cushons. trouble is, my bones slide inside the outdrives along the axis of the pin. the sphere of the bone is not deep enough to get into the full cylindrical portion of the outdrive (its still in the conic outer section). i hate the noise and lack of precision, not to mention the propensity for it to fall out during a high impact.

so now i'm thinking of going aluminum outdrives coupled with irs bones (for the tc3). they have a plastic sleeve on the pin, and are like .200 longer than stock. i'll have to mill the slots from .078 to .094 (2mm to 3/32), and the i.d. to like .250 or larger, but it should be the bomb. they are cheap at 4 for $10 and everyone and their brother has them.

i've got two sets of milled outdrives, but i want to start fresh. i just need one set of virgin aluminum outs for this project.

btw - why are the factory bones so short? i'd love to see them about 1 or 2 mm longer.

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

Seaball,

A whole new allum diff was only USD25 shipped... And the new light weight CVDs was really cheap and durable, if you only place it with the diff, not oneway. Those new CVDs are base on the design of Tamiya CVDs on the TB3, and most parts are compatible with the Tamiya parts. So its worth a try.

btw, if the CVDs are exactly match the length into the outdrives, it will break apart easily in a crash. The 1 or 2 mm buffer you can place a rubber o-ring inside the outdrive, as well as the one way hub.

We don't usually use alloy parts on the "legs".. like the steering hub, c-hubs. Since it provide quite a lot of steering - the traction becomes too hi. Traction sometime will be a 2 edge sword, your lab time will becomes slow when your traction is too high. You may sometimes use a setting that is not a hi grip one, try it out and you may find sometimes a lower grip setting will help improve the lab time, especially in a stock race.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

audi,

yeah, i understand the 1- 2mm buffer, but it seems like the lab has maybe 4 or 5. and i did forget about the one way. the irs bones will never fit with one installed. we never use them here. carpet for life!

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Hey Seaball,

Same over here.i found the type B's they are not really balanced.When it's spinning frely without the belt I can see the wobble.Unlike the Alloy ones....it's always true.I have been using a same diff outdrives for so long with the blade conversion.

I'm going to make another set for the frt.The plastics ones are coming off.Sure it's cheap...but for guys like us..perfection is #1.
O..abt the cvd's..I had bent "god" knows how many..Not that they are inferior.I tend to put them in the frt and bam!!..1 corner dot ..that's all it takes to bend them.Now I use the steel ones off my EVOIII.Runs way better now.

I'm still experimenting on the anti dives and squats.Another chassis is being built as we speak with a a combo of light plastics and alloy stuffs.Hopefully I'll have some pics to show ya...hey,the steering center link,did see what I have done?.I kinda like that.What do you think?

I think audiaudi is saying abt scrubbing speed.Too much tractions slows you down.I guess it all depends on tracks temp and traction too.It changes later down the day.As more rubber foam and traction compound is laid on the carpet.Yes....by going a stiffer tire at the frt compensate for the scrubbing speed.So it actually rolls easier in corners than sticking to it.Just like rubber tires.....O well this is my thought....it's all good..

Hey audiaudi...where's the track you race.Got any pictures u can post.Want to see.......the rest of the world where the "7" races.

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

We now all run at a asphalt track, and am going to be there on tonight... I may try to take some photo on it...
almost all racers in HK go there now....

jeffreyala

Is there somewhere that I can order the springs for the Pro II? I am setting up the car I got from SteveM and it would be nice to have a few different sets of springs.


Thanks,


Jeff

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

audiaudi may have some...the RCLAB ones is pretty good.or UK RCLAB.

jeffreyala

Thanks Chrisman. I am going to see if I can find some in the US. I was told that the HPI may fit.


THanks,


Jeff

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

If you only wanna find sth that "can be install" onto the shocks, you can try the Yokomo springs. The Tamiya springs, X-ray springs and Associated springs also fits the shock body, but you have to change the spring stand with their own products, e.g. Tamiya spring with Tamiya spring stand...

jeffreyala

Thanks for the tip.





Jeff

jeffreyala

Hi guys. The springs came in. Thanks for the help. I have the "Pro spring kit" with the silver, gold and black springs. Can anyone tell me if the black spring in the pro spring kit is different than the factory black spring that comes with the car kit?

What would the order be from soft > hard?


Is it :

Gold > softer

Silver >>

Black >>> Harder


Where would the factory black spring fall in this list?



Thanks,


Jeff

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Here is the listing of the original set of 9 optional and the kit black springs. These were rated in gf/mm and in order to compare you need to convert.

Orange = 220
Light yellow = 230
Red = 240
Light green = 250
Light blue = 260
Black (kit) = 270
Pink = 280
Dark yellow = 300
Dark blue = 320
Dark green = 340

1 kilogram force equals 1000 grams force. Therefore, you need to convert the Kg force into Gram force and then divide by the 22.5mm length.

If I have the correct formula;

gold would be 5500/22.5 = 244 gf/mm
silver would be 6000/22.5 = 267gf/mm
black would be 6500/22.5 = 289 gf/mm

jeffreyala

Ok.

Orange 7U-010-220 220
Lt. Yellow 7U-010-230 230
Red 7U-010-240 240
Lt. Green 7U-010-250 250
Lt. Blue 7U-010-260 260
Black (Kit) DS-002-M 270 270
Pink 7U-010-280 280
Dk. Yellow7U-010-300 300
Dk. Blue 7U-010-320 320
Dk. Green 7U-010-340 340


So Gold would be between Red and light green
Silver between light blue and factory black
and black pro kit would be between pink and DK yellow

I want to try to stiffen the rear with the foams while I wait on the sorex tires, so I guess the blacks will be the only ones I can try. I might just have to buy the full spring kit if the Sorex's don't work well and I have to resort to using foams...........


Thanks!

Jeff

coolikeice

Here's some info:

rclab DS-002-PS

Pro Series Spring Set


Spring rate:

Gold - 6.5kg - Hard
Silver - 6.0kg - Mid
rclab Stock Black Springs ( between Black and Silver)
Black - 5.5kg - Soft

Custom height of Pro Series Springs Set at 22.5mm

Initial Setup for rclab GT3 would be :

Front Shocks - Black 5.5kg,
Rear Shocks - Silver - 6.0kg.

We just run our rclabs with the 1.882 Internal Drive Tran Ratio. rclab Speed was very punchy out of corners, into corners with consistent speed throughout the race track. Lap time has obviously improved. We have been running 2.133 Internal Ratio all this while.