86LikesHpi Pro 4
01-30-2005, 09:26 AM
#9886
Originally posted by Nexus
merciless
This was previously posted on the Pro4 forum by Erik S. designer of the Pro4....
"The settings (steering) go in this order from most aggressive feel to least aggressive: 1, 3, 2, 4.
1 and 2 are with the slanted edges of the plate facing forward, and 3 and 4 have the slanted edges pointing to the rear. The main difference is that 1 and 3 have a lot of initial steering, but 1 has more steering at full throw. 2 and 4 will calm down turn in quite a bit, possibly even causing understeer."
merciless
This was previously posted on the Pro4 forum by Erik S. designer of the Pro4....
"The settings (steering) go in this order from most aggressive feel to least aggressive: 1, 3, 2, 4.
1 and 2 are with the slanted edges of the plate facing forward, and 3 and 4 have the slanted edges pointing to the rear. The main difference is that 1 and 3 have a lot of initial steering, but 1 has more steering at full throw. 2 and 4 will calm down turn in quite a bit, possibly even causing understeer."
Last edited by Merciless; 01-30-2005 at 09:32 AM.
01-30-2005, 10:15 AM
#9887
I just got a Pro 4. Where is the best place to order parts. I want to get some of the pivot block and spare parts.
01-30-2005, 10:47 AM
#9888
01-30-2005, 01:14 PM
#9889
merciless,
Run the tamiya number 3 pistons today at west london, found them to be real nice and smooth, used 50w losi oil in the front and 40w losi oil in the rear and found the car to to be really good with a little drift /loose on the rear with is good there as it helps using the power to "steer" around the corner. will get some orion oil soon as thats what andy moore said to run. some one said that the tamiya pistons are better because they are machined and not moulded like the pro4 ones.
J-P
Run the tamiya number 3 pistons today at west london, found them to be real nice and smooth, used 50w losi oil in the front and 40w losi oil in the rear and found the car to to be really good with a little drift /loose on the rear with is good there as it helps using the power to "steer" around the corner. will get some orion oil soon as thats what andy moore said to run. some one said that the tamiya pistons are better because they are machined and not moulded like the pro4 ones.
J-P
01-30-2005, 03:24 PM
#9890
Originally posted by J-P
merciless,
Run the tamiya number 3 pistons today at west london, found them to be real nice and smooth, used 50w losi oil in the front and 40w losi oil in the rear and found the car to to be really good with a little drift /loose on the rear with is good there as it helps using the power to "steer" around the corner. will get some orion oil soon as thats what andy moore said to run. some one said that the tamiya pistons are better because they are machined and not moulded like the pro4 ones.
J-P
merciless,
Run the tamiya number 3 pistons today at west london, found them to be real nice and smooth, used 50w losi oil in the front and 40w losi oil in the rear and found the car to to be really good with a little drift /loose on the rear with is good there as it helps using the power to "steer" around the corner. will get some orion oil soon as thats what andy moore said to run. some one said that the tamiya pistons are better because they are machined and not moulded like the pro4 ones.
J-P
Followed the Andy moore set-up baring the pistons which i used hpi No.4 at the front and No.2 on the rear with 60wt ass. oil fr and 50wt rear.
The car ran very flat through the corners but pushed terribly and i had to ease off through the sweeper and also to get through a number of the corners i can normally take flat out.
Sticking with the Hpi pistons i think i'll have to at least go down 10wt front and rear and also reduce the spring rates to say 25lb front and 20/22 on the rear.
I don't know if you guys have any better ideas but the car just suffered with a lack of turn in and also wouldn't hold a line through the corners either washing out each time. It was balanced though just didn't steer well enough on our track.
01-31-2005, 02:44 AM
#9893
Tech Regular
got a question about the pinion gear for Pro4
on the manual, it says we can only use the "HPI Racing pinion gears" and cannot use the "HPI pinion gear", whats the difference and why i can't use the "normal" hpi pinion gear?
is that i can use any brand's 64pitch pinion gear when using the stock spur gear?
on the manual, it says we can only use the "HPI Racing pinion gears" and cannot use the "HPI pinion gear", whats the difference and why i can't use the "normal" hpi pinion gear?
is that i can use any brand's 64pitch pinion gear when using the stock spur gear?
01-31-2005, 02:47 AM
#9894
i have been but not been having much luck...
Originally posted by tony2
do any of you guys run your pro4 on asphaly with foam tyres?? if you got any setups, i have a set up for a track sprayed with VHT but i need one without VHT
do any of you guys run your pro4 on asphaly with foam tyres?? if you got any setups, i have a set up for a track sprayed with VHT but i need one without VHT
01-31-2005, 05:21 AM
#9896
Originally posted by yellow15
got a question about the pinion gear for Pro4
on the manual, it says we can only use the "HPI Racing pinion gears" and cannot use the "HPI pinion gear", whats the difference and why i can't use the "normal" hpi pinion gear?
is that i can use any brand's 64pitch pinion gear when using the stock spur gear?
got a question about the pinion gear for Pro4
on the manual, it says we can only use the "HPI Racing pinion gears" and cannot use the "HPI pinion gear", whats the difference and why i can't use the "normal" hpi pinion gear?
is that i can use any brand's 64pitch pinion gear when using the stock spur gear?
01-31-2005, 06:09 AM
#9898
What hop-ups would you guys (and girls) recomend getting...I know that skill is better than any hop-up...but I still want my car to look cool
Thanks
Thanks
01-31-2005, 06:21 AM
#9899
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
Nipple,
Yes, the diff screws easily break and the rear diff tends to loosen as you race. To avoid breaking them using a very small diameter screw driver when tightening the diff and go slowly.
The real fix is doing the TC3 diff mod. Buy a tc3 diff rebuild kit (Associated part #3926) that includes the screw, spring and T-nut. You can use the thrust plates and balls if you want but they are slightly smaller than the metric HPI parts. Modify the diff halves and assemble as in the picture.
I didn't make the pic and I don't remember who did. Many props to the guy that did.
Yes, the diff screws easily break and the rear diff tends to loosen as you race. To avoid breaking them using a very small diameter screw driver when tightening the diff and go slowly.
The real fix is doing the TC3 diff mod. Buy a tc3 diff rebuild kit (Associated part #3926) that includes the screw, spring and T-nut. You can use the thrust plates and balls if you want but they are slightly smaller than the metric HPI parts. Modify the diff halves and assemble as in the picture.
I didn't make the pic and I don't remember who did. Many props to the guy that did.
01-31-2005, 06:34 AM
#9900
Originally posted by tel
Nipple,
Yes, the diff screws easily break and the rear diff tends to loosen as you race. To avoid breaking them using a very small diameter screw driver when tightening the diff and go slowly.
The real fix is doing the TC3 diff mod. Buy a tc3 diff rebuild kit (Associated part #3926) that includes the screw, spring and T-nut. You can use the thrust plates and balls if you want but they are slightly smaller than the metric HPI parts. Modify the diff halves and assemble as in the picture.
I didn't make the pic and I don't remember who did. Many props to the guy that did.
Nipple,
Yes, the diff screws easily break and the rear diff tends to loosen as you race. To avoid breaking them using a very small diameter screw driver when tightening the diff and go slowly.
The real fix is doing the TC3 diff mod. Buy a tc3 diff rebuild kit (Associated part #3926) that includes the screw, spring and T-nut. You can use the thrust plates and balls if you want but they are slightly smaller than the metric HPI parts. Modify the diff halves and assemble as in the picture.
I didn't make the pic and I don't remember who did. Many props to the guy that did.
