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Old 09-26-2004, 09:00 PM   #7636
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Hey guys.

My car seemed to hook up really well on the track today. But when I was in the pits, I tested the suspension/shock feel.

First, when I compress the rear right, the front left goes up, and vice versa all around (left-right right left, etc.)

Is this normal?

My setup:
Stock Springs all around
#5 (3 Hole) Pistons All Around
40wt oil all around
5.5mm droop in the rear
4.5mm droop in the front
Stock pivot block spacers setup
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:12 PM   #7637
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Clint, two of us at our local track are running the PRP chassis (which I love ) but the other racers at our track that are running the Pro4 are using the stock chassis with the center brace. They are getting along fine with it. The difference you will find is that with the stiffer chassis on a high bite track the car will not bog so to say in sweepers and tight corners. Most of the guys are running either Kevin Kane's setup and adding .5mm to the pivot supports and inner camber links or at least a version of it. The setup is posted on the PRP thread. Kevin's setup is super easy to drive and carries super corner speed.
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:14 PM   #7638
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Thanks for the info.. it will be a little while before I get the car, but I like to try and plan ahead..
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:17 PM   #7639
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Clint, you might want to wait for the tc4 or the jrxs.
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:19 PM   #7640
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I thought about a TC4 and with losi, you never really know when they will release something..

plus this would be helping a local racer out... and the pro 4 is not a slow car at all
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:24 PM   #7641
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who you gonna help out. Isn't J. Henry the only one with a pro 4.
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:27 PM   #7642
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:27 PM   #7643
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Actually, there is one other Pro 4 @ Mikes...
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:30 PM   #7644
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Default kit setup/differences in manuals

A mate just got a Pro4 and it has highlited something interesting.

His manual, and I discovered the one you can download from hpi website in jpg format, says to mount the rear shocks in the outermost hole on the arm, and to use the outermost hole on the rear hub blocks and long upper camber links, where as the manual I have and also the one you can download in pdf format, says to use the middle shock hole and the inner upper camber link hole on the wheel hub block.

I havent gone through to see if there are any other differences.

Anyone know why they made this change - and seem to have changed back again? I find it strange they would do this?
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Old 09-27-2004, 09:18 AM   #7645
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aurra Sing
I am just wondering while building this Pro4 why are people wanting to upgrade their Pro4 chassis' to stiffer ones? the stock ones feel extremely stiff already...
hey Marc...

long time no see... I need to get to RcCar race one of these months... get a Pro4 yet? you are right. the stock one is very stiff already. racers upgrade to the stiffer chassis mainly for carpet racing. I've got the 3mm BMI chassis to install when carpet season finally starts up again and it's extremely stiff.
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Old 09-27-2004, 09:21 AM   #7646
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Default Inboard Toe

I have a quick question...why does the Pro4 have adjustable (by replaing the pivot block) front toe blocks, as well as front toe tie rods?

I have read the manual and it states that the pivot blocks create inboard toe...not to sound ignorant, but what is in-board toe?

Please explain how the toe adjustments can be used together?

Thanks,
Art
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Old 09-27-2004, 09:51 AM   #7647
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
hey Marc...

long time no see... I need to get to RcCar race one of these months... get a Pro4 yet? you are right. the stock one is very stiff already. racers upgrade to the stiffer chassis mainly for carpet racing. I've got the 3mm BMI chassis to install when carpet season finally starts up again and it's extremely stiff.
All the best to you Ramon,.... happy racing....
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Old 09-27-2004, 10:01 AM   #7648
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speed Demon
All the best to you Ramon,.... happy racing....
Same to you to bro...
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Old 09-27-2004, 10:07 AM   #7649
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Default Re: Inboard Toe

Quote:
Originally posted by artwork
I have a quick question...why does the Pro4 have adjustable (by replaing the pivot block) front toe blocks, as well as front toe tie rods?

I have read the manual and it states that the pivot blocks create inboard toe...not to sound ignorant, but what is in-board toe?

Please explain how the toe adjustments can be used together?

Thanks,
Art
I may be wrong about this, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I believe inboard toe refers to the fact that the car's suspension gets it toe-in from the inner arm mounts (the toe blocks as you call them). Outboard toe would mean that the toe-in is coming from the hub carrier. In either case you'd have to switch out parts to change toe-in.

In the specific case of the front end of the car, it actually creates a "toe-out" situation, where the inner hinge pins are pointed toward the centerline of the chassis. I'm not entirely clear on the benifits of toe-out in the front, but I think it has something to do with the tracking and stability of the front end of the car.

The ability to adjust this is just another means of tuning your car to suit you. I'm not sure what affect changes will have on the handling of the car, as I've never played with the front toe at all on my Pro4.

Last edited by cartmen34; 09-27-2004 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 09-27-2004, 10:13 AM   #7650
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Default Re: Inboard Toe

Quote:
Originally posted by artwork
I have a quick question...why does the Pro4 have adjustable (by replaing the pivot block) front toe blocks, as well as front toe tie rods?

I have read the manual and it states that the pivot blocks create inboard toe...not to sound ignorant, but what is in-board toe?

Please explain how the toe adjustments can be used together?

Thanks,
Art
You do not have to place the front toe tie rods. Those actually adjust the front wheel toe in or out.

the Inboard toe adjust the inner arm mounts. The more inboard toe is on the car the more the car will be aggressive through the turns. 0deg is more neutral.

on mine I have 2.5deg inboard with 0deg wheel toe.

hope this helps..
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