DOMOisCOOL

Hey guys.

My car seemed to hook up really well on the track today. But when I was in the pits, I tested the suspension/shock feel.

First, when I compress the rear right, the front left goes up, and vice versa all around (left-right right left, etc.)

Is this normal?

My setup:
Stock Springs all around
#5 (3 Hole) Pistons All Around
40wt oil all around
5.5mm droop in the rear
4.5mm droop in the front
Stock pivot block spacers setup

Doug Gaut

Clint, two of us at our local track are running the PRP chassis (which I love ) but the other racers at our track that are running the Pro4 are using the stock chassis with the center brace. They are getting along fine with it. The difference you will find is that with the stiffer chassis on a high bite track the car will not bog so to say in sweepers and tight corners. Most of the guys are running either Kevin Kane's setup and adding .5mm to the pivot supports and inner camber links or at least a version of it. The setup is posted on the PRP thread. Kevin's setup is super easy to drive and carries super corner speed.

clinttredway

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the info.. it will be a little while before I get the car, but I like to try and plan ahead..

mtc3od

Clint, you might want to wait for the tc4 or the jrxs.

clinttredway

iTrader: (8)

I thought about a TC4 and with losi, you never really know when they will release something..

plus this would be helping a local racer out... and the pro 4 is not a slow car at all

mtc3od

who you gonna help out. Isn't J. Henry the only one with a pro 4.

clinttredway

iTrader: (8)

clinttredway

iTrader: (8)

Actually, there is one other Pro 4 @ Mikes...

azenis

A mate just got a Pro4 and it has highlited something interesting.

His manual, and I discovered the one you can download from hpi website in jpg format, says to mount the rear shocks in the outermost hole on the arm, and to use the outermost hole on the rear hub blocks and long upper camber links, where as the manual I have and also the one you can download in pdf format, says to use the middle shock hole and the inner upper camber link hole on the wheel hub block.

I havent gone through to see if there are any other differences.

Anyone know why they made this change - and seem to have changed back again? I find it strange they would do this?

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

hey Marc...

long time no see... I need to get to RcCar race one of these months... get a Pro4 yet? you are right. the stock one is very stiff already. racers upgrade to the stiffer chassis mainly for carpet racing. I've got the 3mm BMI chassis to install when carpet season finally starts up again and it's extremely stiff.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I have a quick question...why does the Pro4 have adjustable (by replaing the pivot block) front toe blocks, as well as front toe tie rods?

I have read the manual and it states that the pivot blocks create inboard toe...not to sound ignorant, but what is in-board toe?

Please explain how the toe adjustments can be used together?

Thanks,
Art

Speed Demon

iTrader: (3)

All the best to you Ramon,.... happy racing....

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Same to you to bro...

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

I may be wrong about this, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I believe inboard toe refers to the fact that the car's suspension gets it toe-in from the inner arm mounts (the toe blocks as you call them). Outboard toe would mean that the toe-in is coming from the hub carrier. In either case you'd have to switch out parts to change toe-in.

In the specific case of the front end of the car, it actually creates a "toe-out" situation, where the inner hinge pins are pointed toward the centerline of the chassis. I'm not entirely clear on the benifits of toe-out in the front, but I think it has something to do with the tracking and stability of the front end of the car.

The ability to adjust this is just another means of tuning your car to suit you. I'm not sure what affect changes will have on the handling of the car, as I've never played with the front toe at all on my Pro4.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

You do not have to place the front toe tie rods. Those actually adjust the front wheel toe in or out.

the Inboard toe adjust the inner arm mounts. The more inboard toe is on the car the more the car will be aggressive through the turns. 0deg is more neutral.

on mine I have 2.5deg inboard with 0deg wheel toe.

hope this helps..