GasGod

iTrader: (4)

There are no tweak screws on a 103 t-bar.Check your damper plates for carpet fuzz/debris. Your o-ring on the t-bar might be torn also,check to see if one of the front springs collapsed.
Hope to race with you soon @ horsham(as soon as my 109 or 103 gets here
The 103 needs alittle help as it's a 1995 model and well thrashed
I'll be the old fart that can't drive anymore.But I still have FUN

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

The 103 needs alittle help as it's a 1995 model and well thrashed

Naa my 103 is just as old (has some upgrades) and she holds her own so far. Although Greg get's on me about bashing my driving . If I can get ahold of my line better and figure out to pass (quickly) I think I can at least pick up a lap.He took out my 103 for a few laps (pre tweaked) and was matching his 104 lap times within three laps.

That being said..The 109 is a very nice car.Papo took a ton of weight out of his and it looks and is much faster. All and all I think with the silvercans they are all matched close.
So far driving skill has been the big difference at Horsham.

robk

iTrader: (22)

#1 t bar - this is the first suspect when your car magically sucks. I find they last 3-4 weekends.

#2 front springs- most of the time a collapsed spring is the problem if it is not the t bar, but everything else appears normal.

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

Thanks,Ill give it a look over.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I got everything I need to get mine back up and running - other then better tires

Foams are needed and better rubbers, but I got a little bit of time for them

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

3-4 races/weeks on a t-bar???
I have run t-bar cars since the late 80's and know about the flex /age deal but seriously-3-4 race days sucks.

robk

iTrader: (22)

When you run the cars on the oring or oring and washer setup, they get beat up a lot more than a 1/12 or 1/10 car with real pivot balls on the t bar. I also think it is magnified when run on carpet, with the need to set the o ring tension higher.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Didn't think of that--my bad.
more reason to go link-maybe

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Can I have your old F-103 t-bars.
Been running the same one here since 1995

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Hey Champ,

You run the soft t plate or the standard one?

How bout the setup, O rings or spacer front O ring rear?

My soft plates tend to wear the screw holes pretty quick too and I run em full tight front and rear then each screw backed off about 1/8 turn, enough to keep the plate from squirming side to side. 2 O rings.

InspGadgt

Mine used to last quite a bit longer than that. I would usually get at least 12 race weekends if not more on a T-Bar for a F103. Much more than I would with my 12L since those snapped if you just looked at them wrong. Wear got even better when the pivot ball rear suspension was out but that made the car push without the active front end.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Yeah you can have them. If you pay shipping

Seriously, I check them when I take them off of the car and they usually will have 2 corners you can tap on that will make the t bar raise up slightly. I use a setup board or other flat surface to check them.

Do you run asphalt or carpet? And do you use 2 o rings or washers? I'm just asking, as I seriously believe this makes a difference.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Anyone know if the front or rear wing sets from the 104 fit the 103?
my lhs has the 104's in stock but can't get 103 wing sets in till next blue moon --and I need a set by the weekend or no racing for me I really want to race .Also are the kyosho silvercans the same as a mabuchi/johnson?

robk

iTrader: (22)

104 stuff should fit the 103, as it has the same mounting holes. Don't know if you'll run into tire rub issues on the front though.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Hey Rob.
Well to be honest I was having a bit of a laugh as one of my F-103's has been sitting on the shelf for a very long time

However, I don't really go thru T-bars that often, a little c.a on the countersink of the screw hole helps with durability, and I just use the std t-bar, not the soft.
I mount them up in the std format, 1 o-ring only, or occasionally with the pivot ball system.

The old 12L t-bars were very sensitive, and I did replace those monthly.
I think that is due to the more solid mounting system and tweak screws used in that application.

Carpet, asphalt, sticky, loose. I've run that car everywhere and generally tune with tires more than chassis.

My favorite setup on carpet was with the pivot ball bar, std front end, and Pre-mounts, tons of controllable steering, great roll thru the corners.

My t-bars may have somewhat less abuse than others, your mileage may vary