1/12 RS12G Atsushi Hara Replica
#421
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by revzalot
It's one sweet ride. It turns really good on carpet in stock class. I'm itching to go faster though with 19t on asphalt. I'll let you guys know how it runs under the sun.
It's one sweet ride. It turns really good on carpet in stock class. I'm itching to go faster though with 19t on asphalt. I'll let you guys know how it runs under the sun.
#423
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by revzalot
ernestf that's one nice looking ride. What kind of bumper is that? Does it fit snug under the body?
ernestf that's one nice looking ride. What kind of bumper is that? Does it fit snug under the body?
#425
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Originally posted by JDXray
Trips- How did it run today?
Trips- How did it run today?
Definitely a NICE car... too bad no one showed for 1/12 scale, I only got those two runs during practice.
THe first run was with the very hard black spring from the Rev3, it's harder than nay of the three springs in the hara kit. Second run I went to the hardest of the three kit springs on the shock. The car was easier to drive with the kit spring, but I'm not sure which was faster, I didn't get times on the first run.
I had .020 springs on the old skool front end, TRC greys and purples for tires. I'm thinking to go back to the Rev3 spring on the shock, the car had a bit of on power push with Hara spring on it. Maybe some .022's on the front end if needed.
It's nice to be right up there with lap times on a brand new car, I think there's a lot of potential here.
#426
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Trips
I didn't get out Saturday but I got to run a couple of packs in practice today. The car right out of the bag was within a tenth or so of my Rev3, it might actually be faster because the lap times from the Rev3 were last week with a strong stocker, this week I had a beater MVP in the Hara. Slower on the long straight for sure, and less punchy, but the turn in and speed throught he corners made up for it. I also was running a CRC Courage body on the Hara, and I'm not sure how well it works. I'll run a Parma Speed 8 next time I have it out, so far that's been the best working body for me.
Definitely a NICE car... too bad no one showed for 1/12 scale, I only got those two runs during practice.
THe first run was with the very hard black spring from the Rev3, it's harder than nay of the three springs in the hara kit. Second run I went to the hardest of the three kit springs on the shock. The car was easier to drive with the kit spring, but I'm not sure which was faster, I didn't get times on the first run.
I had .020 springs on the old skool front end, TRC greys and purples for tires. I'm thinking to go back to the Rev3 spring on the shock, the car had a bit of on power push with Hara spring on it. Maybe some .022's on the front end if needed.
It's nice to be right up there with lap times on a brand new car, I think there's a lot of potential here.
I didn't get out Saturday but I got to run a couple of packs in practice today. The car right out of the bag was within a tenth or so of my Rev3, it might actually be faster because the lap times from the Rev3 were last week with a strong stocker, this week I had a beater MVP in the Hara. Slower on the long straight for sure, and less punchy, but the turn in and speed throught he corners made up for it. I also was running a CRC Courage body on the Hara, and I'm not sure how well it works. I'll run a Parma Speed 8 next time I have it out, so far that's been the best working body for me.
Definitely a NICE car... too bad no one showed for 1/12 scale, I only got those two runs during practice.
THe first run was with the very hard black spring from the Rev3, it's harder than nay of the three springs in the hara kit. Second run I went to the hardest of the three kit springs on the shock. The car was easier to drive with the kit spring, but I'm not sure which was faster, I didn't get times on the first run.
I had .020 springs on the old skool front end, TRC greys and purples for tires. I'm thinking to go back to the Rev3 spring on the shock, the car had a bit of on power push with Hara spring on it. Maybe some .022's on the front end if needed.
It's nice to be right up there with lap times on a brand new car, I think there's a lot of potential here.
About those .20 and .22 i think the .22 would just give you more steering. Whats your camber and toe in/out looking?
And i love the speed it carries in the corners.
My car has just been getting bettter and better every weekend.
How did the rear pod hold up? You got AIM- easier to talk.
#428
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by ernestf
Guys - basic question of 1/12 - do you add grase on the mid fliction plate ? For high traction smooth outdoor HOT surface ... thanks !
Guys - basic question of 1/12 - do you add grase on the mid fliction plate ? For high traction smooth outdoor HOT surface ... thanks !
#430
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Camber on the front end is right at 0. The old skool front end doesn't have any real camber adjustment other than shimming under the sides of the arms, kinda rough but doable. Running 0 for now til I see if the tires start coning. Interesting thing, in two runs I saw practically NO tire wear whatsoever.
Toe was set right at zero as well.
The rear pod held up well. Nothing loosened up in two runs, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did use a touch of blue loctite on the four bolts going into the rear posts, and a bit on the pivot ball screws too.
ernestf--- I run just a little bit of Losi thin hydra drive fluid on the dampener disks. Two or three small drops on one disk, then rub the disks together, then assemble.
Toe was set right at zero as well.
The rear pod held up well. Nothing loosened up in two runs, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did use a touch of blue loctite on the four bolts going into the rear posts, and a bit on the pivot ball screws too.
ernestf--- I run just a little bit of Losi thin hydra drive fluid on the dampener disks. Two or three small drops on one disk, then rub the disks together, then assemble.
Originally posted by JDXray
Trips sounds awesome man. Ya i like using the Hara springs they give you, very easy to drive. And once you have that car low.. there is no way in going bad. The light push i kinda got used to and i kinda like it alittle. But if anything go to softer foams, but i think grey and purple is fine.
About those .20 and .22 i think the .22 would just give you more steering. Whats your camber and toe in/out looking?
And i love the speed it carries in the corners.
My car has just been getting bettter and better every weekend.
How did the rear pod hold up? You got AIM- easier to talk.
Trips sounds awesome man. Ya i like using the Hara springs they give you, very easy to drive. And once you have that car low.. there is no way in going bad. The light push i kinda got used to and i kinda like it alittle. But if anything go to softer foams, but i think grey and purple is fine.
About those .20 and .22 i think the .22 would just give you more steering. Whats your camber and toe in/out looking?
And i love the speed it carries in the corners.
My car has just been getting bettter and better every weekend.
How did the rear pod hold up? You got AIM- easier to talk.
#431
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Trips
Camber on the front end is right at 0. The old skool front end doesn't have any real camber adjustment other than shimming under the sides of the arms, kinda rough but doable. Running 0 for now til I see if the tires start coning. Interesting thing, in two runs I saw practically NO tire wear whatsoever.
Toe was set right at zero as well.
The rear pod held up well. Nothing loosened up in two runs, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did use a touch of blue loctite on the four bolts going into the rear posts, and a bit on the pivot ball screws too.
ernestf--- I run just a little bit of Losi thin hydra drive fluid on the dampener disks. Two or three small drops on one disk, then rub the disks together, then assemble.
Camber on the front end is right at 0. The old skool front end doesn't have any real camber adjustment other than shimming under the sides of the arms, kinda rough but doable. Running 0 for now til I see if the tires start coning. Interesting thing, in two runs I saw practically NO tire wear whatsoever.
Toe was set right at zero as well.
The rear pod held up well. Nothing loosened up in two runs, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did use a touch of blue loctite on the four bolts going into the rear posts, and a bit on the pivot ball screws too.
ernestf--- I run just a little bit of Losi thin hydra drive fluid on the dampener disks. Two or three small drops on one disk, then rub the disks together, then assemble.
I am still playing around with -.5 or .5 degress of toe in, i kinda like the .5* since its alittle easier to drive, but the -.5* was also good too, alittle more steering.
I believe my camber is around 1, 1.5*
Yup, i always take a look aorund the car to see if anything is loose,cracked etc. Also keep an eye on the front part of the chassis where the body posts go. That tends to start cracking away if you are hitting. Mine is starting to crack but still very runnable so i am looking to get another chassis soon.
I think my next test will be Damper tubes and get rid of those disks. Ill let you guys know when i do it and test it out. Overall still loving the Hammer
Jon
#432
Tech Regular
Jon's setup is amazing, it works like a charm once I get my car im gonna try his setup maybe and then try my own and then tell you all how it works.
#433
Tech Initiate
I posted some of my 'top tips' for setting up the Hammer 12, however it sounds like they are working out more for you guys then for me! I ran the car during the Southwest winter series over here in the UK but had no end of trouble with it. Firstly guys, if you wack something hard, you will break off the front tabs that the body posts go through, I KNOW!! After that happened, I sent the chassis off to a producer here in the UK (fibrelyte) and they made me a new chassis with the front part just going straight across, like a L4. You can then put on the chassis protectors that come on the L4 and that should not be a problem again. Secondly, the car seems totally inconsistant. It would run perfectly on one run and on the next, rubbish. Very, very frustrating. Also, the problem that I mentioned about the chassis feeling tweaked, anyone got any thoughts on that? Tried the scalpal trick as well as a tweak station and it still felt tweaked on the track. Again, very frustrating. When the car is working, it really works well but to me, it's very hit or miss when you put the car on the track, and to be honest, you really need to know what the car is going to do by making certain changes, and with the Hammer 12, that just does n't seem to happen! I would stick some pics on here guys, but I'm using my mates computer as mine has decided to die!
Here's how I last ran the Hara;
Purple fronts
.20 springs
1.5 degree camber
.5 degree toe in
Gray rears
30wt shock oil
Silver spring
Corally soft side springs
4mm ride height all round
Corally odourless additive 1/2 inside fronts, full rears
Protoform Bentley
Cheers guys,
NCR.
Here's how I last ran the Hara;
Purple fronts
.20 springs
1.5 degree camber
.5 degree toe in
Gray rears
30wt shock oil
Silver spring
Corally soft side springs
4mm ride height all round
Corally odourless additive 1/2 inside fronts, full rears
Protoform Bentley
Cheers guys,
NCR.
#434
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by north coast rac
I posted some of my 'top tips' for setting up the Hammer 12, however it sounds like they are working out more for you guys then for me! I ran the car during the Southwest winter series over here in the UK but had no end of trouble with it. Firstly guys, if you wack something hard, you will break off the front tabs that the body posts go through, I KNOW!! After that happened, I sent the chassis off to a producer here in the UK (fibrelyte) and they made me a new chassis with the front part just going straight across, like a L4. You can then put on the chassis protectors that come on the L4 and that should not be a problem again. Secondly, the car seems totally inconsistant. It would run perfectly on one run and on the next, rubbish. Very, very frustrating. Also, the problem that I mentioned about the chassis feeling tweaked, anyone got any thoughts on that? Tried the scalpal trick as well as a tweak station and it still felt tweaked on the track. Again, very frustrating. When the car is working, it really works well but to me, it's very hit or miss when you put the car on the track, and to be honest, you really need to know what the car is going to do by making certain changes, and with the Hammer 12, that just does n't seem to happen! I would stick some pics on here guys, but I'm using my mates computer as mine has decided to die!
Here's how I last ran the Hara;
Purple fronts
.20 springs
1.5 degree camber
.5 degree toe in
Gray rears
30wt shock oil
Silver spring
Corally soft side springs
4mm ride height all round
Corally odourless additive 1/2 inside fronts, full rears
Protoform Bentley
Cheers guys,
NCR.
I posted some of my 'top tips' for setting up the Hammer 12, however it sounds like they are working out more for you guys then for me! I ran the car during the Southwest winter series over here in the UK but had no end of trouble with it. Firstly guys, if you wack something hard, you will break off the front tabs that the body posts go through, I KNOW!! After that happened, I sent the chassis off to a producer here in the UK (fibrelyte) and they made me a new chassis with the front part just going straight across, like a L4. You can then put on the chassis protectors that come on the L4 and that should not be a problem again. Secondly, the car seems totally inconsistant. It would run perfectly on one run and on the next, rubbish. Very, very frustrating. Also, the problem that I mentioned about the chassis feeling tweaked, anyone got any thoughts on that? Tried the scalpal trick as well as a tweak station and it still felt tweaked on the track. Again, very frustrating. When the car is working, it really works well but to me, it's very hit or miss when you put the car on the track, and to be honest, you really need to know what the car is going to do by making certain changes, and with the Hammer 12, that just does n't seem to happen! I would stick some pics on here guys, but I'm using my mates computer as mine has decided to die!
Here's how I last ran the Hara;
Purple fronts
.20 springs
1.5 degree camber
.5 degree toe in
Gray rears
30wt shock oil
Silver spring
Corally soft side springs
4mm ride height all round
Corally odourless additive 1/2 inside fronts, full rears
Protoform Bentley
Cheers guys,
NCR.
If car is feeling inconsistant i would check rear pod ( i dont know why but for me that has solved alot of problems)
As for tweak it seems that the hara is kinda hard to tweak for me as well, but even if the car is tweaked alittle it still works very well. How far are you tweak screws in? I have mine about more than half way down.
Try using the hara center spring he gives you in the kit there very good and smooth.
Try also going back to the Hara Center springs. How do you like the Corally ones?
Foam combo looks fine what you cut them to?
Keep us updated on your problem,would like to keep helping it just sounds unfortunate you are having these problems since i have only had 1 problem when i first got the kit and it was the rear pod slop, which is very easy to fix.
Jon
#435
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Well...
I >finally< got to race my Hammer today, at Willis. I'd run some practice runs on the car out at South Shore, but that in no way prepared me for the small tight Willis layout. It's a great layout, technical but with a good rythm to it.
Any doubts I had about the strength of this chassis are gone now. I smacked som boards HARD today, hard enough in the third round to pop the endbell out of the motor. Even running the last minute of the run with the power WAY down I managed to qualify second on the grid in the A. I did have a 59 lap TQ run going when the endbell popped off... Had to settle for second.
I ran all three qualifiers with the same battery pack... this wasn't even a race pack, it was four loose 3300's that I'd built as a receiver battery for one of my helicopters. I had no race packs, so I stuck it in the car and abused the snot out of it all day. In the main, Drew (who took TQ) was kind enough to loan me a GREAT pack. We ran nose to tail for most of the main, trading the lead back and forth until around the 7 minute mark, then I got stuck on a board and Drew went by for the win.
I'm VERY pleased with this car... it worked GREAT right out of the gate, no chasing the setup necessary. It's as fast as my Rev3, maybe a bit better steering going in to the corners. I need to settle down a bit, I was a bit twitchy on the wheel today. Probably a combination of trying to get used to a new radio and not having driven on a small track in five years or so.
Next week is a trophy race, I hope the turnout is BIG.
Thanks again to JDXray for pointing me to the car for sale, and thanks again to gc2005 for the great deal.
I >finally< got to race my Hammer today, at Willis. I'd run some practice runs on the car out at South Shore, but that in no way prepared me for the small tight Willis layout. It's a great layout, technical but with a good rythm to it.
Any doubts I had about the strength of this chassis are gone now. I smacked som boards HARD today, hard enough in the third round to pop the endbell out of the motor. Even running the last minute of the run with the power WAY down I managed to qualify second on the grid in the A. I did have a 59 lap TQ run going when the endbell popped off... Had to settle for second.
I ran all three qualifiers with the same battery pack... this wasn't even a race pack, it was four loose 3300's that I'd built as a receiver battery for one of my helicopters. I had no race packs, so I stuck it in the car and abused the snot out of it all day. In the main, Drew (who took TQ) was kind enough to loan me a GREAT pack. We ran nose to tail for most of the main, trading the lead back and forth until around the 7 minute mark, then I got stuck on a board and Drew went by for the win.
I'm VERY pleased with this car... it worked GREAT right out of the gate, no chasing the setup necessary. It's as fast as my Rev3, maybe a bit better steering going in to the corners. I need to settle down a bit, I was a bit twitchy on the wheel today. Probably a combination of trying to get used to a new radio and not having driven on a small track in five years or so.
Next week is a trophy race, I hope the turnout is BIG.
Thanks again to JDXray for pointing me to the car for sale, and thanks again to gc2005 for the great deal.