BMI's DB12R
#5626
Tech Champion
There are 2 sets of holes in the chassis and in the servo mount. You can use those to move your servo back further.
#5627
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
I thought that too, but a guy that's helping me set the car told me that a good working car doesn't need that much steering input. If your going full lock to full lock, your not going real fast and the thing needs some work. I'm not fabulous at 12th scale, so I'm still learning as I go. The car is awesome though, have faith in it and work on it. It gets better every time I go out.
#5628
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
windsor. run the servo mounts so that you use all 4 screws in chassis. then with a dremel i grind away just a bit of the right lower arm so the servo ear clears. put the ball studs behind the servo saver in the middle holes. this is the best way to mount the servo flat and the turn buckles will be dead straight i will post pics when i figure out how
#5629
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
windsor. run the servo mounts so that you use all 4 screws in chassis. then with a dremel i grind away just a bit of the right lower arm so the servo ear clears. put the ball studs behind the servo saver in the middle holes. this is the best way to mount the servo flat and the turn buckles will be dead straight i will post pics when i figure out how
#5630
Tech Apprentice
Is there any way of doing it without grinding the front arms. If thats what i have to do I guess it will have to get done.
#5637
Tech Champion
He's having a problem with the tie rod hitting the upper hinge pin not the servo hitting the lower arm.
As Jason said you want the tie rods straight or a little foward but shouldn't be so far foward that they are hitting the upper hinge pin. If they are then either your servo is too far foward or you are running the ball studs on the front of the servo saver instead of on the back. There are 4 holes in the chassis where the servo mounts, 2 on each side of the servo. There are also 2 holes on the bottom of each servo mount. This gives 4 combinations of how far foward or back the servo can be mounted. Different servos have different heights so your servo may not fit right in the exact holes the instructions say. Move your servo back until the tie rods are as straight as possible. The furthest back would be the 2 back holes on the chassis and the 2 foward holes on the servo mounts. That should move the tie rods far enough away from the upper hinge pin so that they don't hit except at extreme steering which you shouldn't be using that much anyway.
As Jason said you want the tie rods straight or a little foward but shouldn't be so far foward that they are hitting the upper hinge pin. If they are then either your servo is too far foward or you are running the ball studs on the front of the servo saver instead of on the back. There are 4 holes in the chassis where the servo mounts, 2 on each side of the servo. There are also 2 holes on the bottom of each servo mount. This gives 4 combinations of how far foward or back the servo can be mounted. Different servos have different heights so your servo may not fit right in the exact holes the instructions say. Move your servo back until the tie rods are as straight as possible. The furthest back would be the 2 back holes on the chassis and the 2 foward holes on the servo mounts. That should move the tie rods far enough away from the upper hinge pin so that they don't hit except at extreme steering which you shouldn't be using that much anyway.
#5638
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
#5639
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
im running my ball studs behind the servo but with a ko 949 i had to grind the arm just a smidge. if i move the servo back a would have to move the ballstuds to the front but then they would hit the upper arms and wont be straight. maybe its just this servo i can show you if i can figure out how to get my images fullsize
#5640
Craig, if you move to MD. I will show you how to operate a camera !