Is it time again for 1/10th scale pan cars?
07-11-2007, 07:47 PM
#106
what if you tech tires for a weekend and limit the sets to ensure that people have to leave some meat on them to finish the weekend.. like two sets total? would also help keep it the cost effective class we hope it will be.. cause frankly, i'm a cheap bastard.. lol
07-11-2007, 08:05 PM
#108
The last time I raced wide pan was about 5 years ago on carpet. It was an RC10L2. It was stock with 6 cells and I was 2/10ths per laps faster than sedan mod.
I race 1/12th all the time though on asphalt and carpet a couple times a year.
FYI, I didn't mean to say your were not a serious racer. I just meant that where you are running with 20 guys all in the same class and everyone is pushing each other to go faster things get a lot more serious...and expensive.
I race 1/12th all the time though on asphalt and carpet a couple times a year.
FYI, I didn't mean to say your were not a serious racer. I just meant that where you are running with 20 guys all in the same class and everyone is pushing each other to go faster things get a lot more serious...and expensive.
07-11-2007, 11:42 PM
#109
the whole idea behind this is to cut back on the tunability and cost of the cars so guys aren't tuning themselves right out of the race. nascar and other various racing series have done the same thing. guys just want to enjoy racing without having to spend hours trying to tune in a car only to have it be over in 5 mins.
the future of lipo/bl in any of the pan car classes will extend what we already do in 12th. "endurance racing" as we see it. in 10th specifically.. you can run 2 packs in parallel for even greater capacity (heavy fuel load, and associated weight penalty) or you can run 1 light load and come in earlier for a stop. don't have to worry about noise laws like the gas guys are hitting up against. some of the electric hard core guys will have a problem with this. but the guys who are life size racing fans will see the fun factor in not having to win it in the first few minutes, and the chance to change out a clip with 3? screws if you break something other than the chassis itself. ask the gas 8th (off or on-road) guys if they would race with a lighter car that could be repaired in a short time instead of being done when they've torn up the expensive tank that requires them to cram a hi dollar 5 hp just to keep it moving.
i have more on how this could play out on race day and how the formula would allow/promote better internet/tv coverage - like the real stuff. but its laaaate.
the future of lipo/bl in any of the pan car classes will extend what we already do in 12th. "endurance racing" as we see it. in 10th specifically.. you can run 2 packs in parallel for even greater capacity (heavy fuel load, and associated weight penalty) or you can run 1 light load and come in earlier for a stop. don't have to worry about noise laws like the gas guys are hitting up against. some of the electric hard core guys will have a problem with this. but the guys who are life size racing fans will see the fun factor in not having to win it in the first few minutes, and the chance to change out a clip with 3? screws if you break something other than the chassis itself. ask the gas 8th (off or on-road) guys if they would race with a lighter car that could be repaired in a short time instead of being done when they've torn up the expensive tank that requires them to cram a hi dollar 5 hp just to keep it moving.
i have more on how this could play out on race day and how the formula would allow/promote better internet/tv coverage - like the real stuff. but its laaaate.
07-12-2007, 02:10 AM
#110
The trick with tires I use is this:
I run them in practice from full size to race size, then I put 'em away till I have at least 3 equal size sets. These sets I use for racing, and will let me have fun for months.
The tracks we run on are usually too slippery to run on really small tires, so the last few runs from tires are practice/training runs again.
I run them in practice from full size to race size, then I put 'em away till I have at least 3 equal size sets. These sets I use for racing, and will let me have fun for months.
The tracks we run on are usually too slippery to run on really small tires, so the last few runs from tires are practice/training runs again.
07-12-2007, 06:38 AM
#112
i just want to run my pan. period. and i'll tell you right now i'm gona run full size tires. i can't afford to shave off $10 worth of tire.. it's not in the budget.. and i'll happily come in second (or third or fourth) to someone that wants to win that bad... i like the cars. they are fast. they are cheap. and ith brushless, and maybe lipo, i think would be a great lower cost and maintenace class with more "driver feel" than touring cars..
07-12-2007, 07:42 AM
#113
i just want to run my pan. period. and i'll tell you right now i'm gona run full size tires. i can't afford to shave off $10 worth of tire.. it's not in the budget.. and i'll happily come in second (or third or fourth) to someone that wants to win that bad... i like the cars. they are fast. they are cheap. and ith brushless, and maybe lipo, i think would be a great lower cost and maintenace class with more "driver feel" than touring cars..
I know some of you guys like all the high tech stuff...and that is awesome....but I just want to race. I used to be a sponsored shooter, and I always told the gunsmith.."You build them, I'll drive them...". I did not want to know all the tricks and slick this and tech that....I wanted the gun to feel a certain way in my hands....and during target transitions, splits, subjective feel, etc.
If this hobby/sport is going to get new blood there must be an entrance point....and this might be it. Ok, I'll shut up now....
07-12-2007, 08:26 AM
#114
personally i prefer the pan car, currently there is no on road pan car class in my area. I still race oval with a pan car.
For a beginner, the pan car is not the best car to start with. It is rear drive and with the wedge type bodies can be diffiicult to control. twitchy and it spins out easily, especially if the track is not treated with some type of traction compound. the set up of a pan car is completely on another planet as compared to setting up the touring car. A old school pan car mentor would be helpful here. there are also over a dozen compounds avaialable for pan cars. green, blue, tan, silver, pink, purple, and on in obnausium. that is on another nest of worms to be learned.
you can get a competive touring car for $200 and under, the
Xray and tamiya Ta05 come to mind. also a set of sorex tires will give you 8 to 14 runs maybe more with a stock motor or silver can.
I race on road at the Tamiya TCS races with a stock TA05R. that I picked up for 250 but can be had for 230. I tried the tamiya F103 but did not like the way it handled with the rubber tires. if they allowed foams that would be another story.
However, if you determined to gert a pan car, there are several very nice ones out there. start with the AE 10L it is the simplest. these cars have become very sophisticated also. also see John Strananhans thread on pan car development in this forum under the Pantoura 1/10 pan car. this is not your normal every day 10L!
have fun
wn
For a beginner, the pan car is not the best car to start with. It is rear drive and with the wedge type bodies can be diffiicult to control. twitchy and it spins out easily, especially if the track is not treated with some type of traction compound. the set up of a pan car is completely on another planet as compared to setting up the touring car. A old school pan car mentor would be helpful here. there are also over a dozen compounds avaialable for pan cars. green, blue, tan, silver, pink, purple, and on in obnausium. that is on another nest of worms to be learned.
you can get a competive touring car for $200 and under, the
Xray and tamiya Ta05 come to mind. also a set of sorex tires will give you 8 to 14 runs maybe more with a stock motor or silver can.
I race on road at the Tamiya TCS races with a stock TA05R. that I picked up for 250 but can be had for 230. I tried the tamiya F103 but did not like the way it handled with the rubber tires. if they allowed foams that would be another story.
However, if you determined to gert a pan car, there are several very nice ones out there. start with the AE 10L it is the simplest. these cars have become very sophisticated also. also see John Strananhans thread on pan car development in this forum under the Pantoura 1/10 pan car. this is not your normal every day 10L!
have fun
wn
07-12-2007, 08:59 AM
#115
YES
The answer is yes, it is time. The big question is now that I have started a buzz on the boards is www.rctvlive.com going to mention it? Please mention me
That would be a great way to get the word out there that there is a need/want for pancars
That would be a great way to get the word out there that there is a need/want for pancars
07-12-2007, 09:06 AM
#116
sugarwater
The bad part is the on road tracks in Cali are closing. we will have to go back to parking lot racing with sugar water. Hey it worked then it will work again.
07-12-2007, 09:26 AM
#117
the whole idea behind this is to cut back on the tunability and cost of the cars so guys aren't tuning themselves right out of the race. nascar and other various racing series have done the same thing. guys just want to enjoy racing without having to spend hours trying to tune in a car only to have it be over in 5 mins.
the future of lipo/bl in any of the pan car classes will extend what we already do in 12th. "endurance racing" as we see it. in 10th specifically.. you can run 2 packs in parallel for even greater capacity (heavy fuel load, and associated weight penalty) or you can run 1 light load and come in earlier for a stop. don't have to worry about noise laws like the gas guys are hitting up against. some of the electric hard core guys will have a problem with this. but the guys who are life size racing fans will see the fun factor in not having to win it in the first few minutes, and the chance to change out a clip with 3? screws if you break something other than the chassis itself. ask the gas 8th (off or on-road) guys if they would race with a lighter car that could be repaired in a short time instead of being done when they've torn up the expensive tank that requires them to cram a hi dollar 5 hp just to keep it moving.
i have more on how this could play out on race day and how the formula would allow/promote better internet/tv coverage - like the real stuff. but its laaaate.
the future of lipo/bl in any of the pan car classes will extend what we already do in 12th. "endurance racing" as we see it. in 10th specifically.. you can run 2 packs in parallel for even greater capacity (heavy fuel load, and associated weight penalty) or you can run 1 light load and come in earlier for a stop. don't have to worry about noise laws like the gas guys are hitting up against. some of the electric hard core guys will have a problem with this. but the guys who are life size racing fans will see the fun factor in not having to win it in the first few minutes, and the chance to change out a clip with 3? screws if you break something other than the chassis itself. ask the gas 8th (off or on-road) guys if they would race with a lighter car that could be repaired in a short time instead of being done when they've torn up the expensive tank that requires them to cram a hi dollar 5 hp just to keep it moving.
i have more on how this could play out on race day and how the formula would allow/promote better internet/tv coverage - like the real stuff. but its laaaate.
07-12-2007, 12:11 PM
#120
I think that if everyone got together and perhaps made some rules up to tailor bodies to motors and created real classes this could totally take off. My thoughts on the topic:
All classes run 4 cells on a 200mm chassis, this would keep it simple for people to start out and move through the classes.
Class 1: Entry Level
Silver can 540 motors only.
Realistic street bodies that new racers can identify with.
Examples:
http://hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies...4/7494_04m.jpg
http://hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies...IMG_4874km.jpg
http://hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies...435/911k3m.jpg
Class 2: Stock
ROAR legal stock motors only.
Realistic GT style bodies, new racers can still identify but they will also associate the body styles with the increased speeds.
Examples:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7046_01m.jpg
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/mca236.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/p/pftc9201.jpg
Class 3: Modified
ROAR legal modified motors to include brushless.
GTP style bodies, again identifiable but with a much higher level of performance. This should give new racers something to strive for and they should look impressive on the track.
Examples:
http://www.prolineracing.com/products/images/1480.jpg
http://yokomousa.com/bodies/RR.jpg
http://www.serpent.com/image.php?ImageID=14769
Given a little time to catch on I honestly think you would see a lot of newer touring car racers making the move. Running a pan car is much easier and far less expensive than trying to manage a sedan these days. This would get people on the track with a higher level of performance and probably help keep them on the track.
Thoughts?
Nick