Mabuchi540

Yeah I've double checked everything today and the gear is the right way around.

I've even tried re-shimming but it doesn't make a big enough difference. As I posted earlier someone said to me (a guy that's been running Yokomo for years) when I told him the problem he said he was surprized that the other side wasn't doing it too.

He said the drive shafts just aren't long enough when used on the front (with a diff) but also stated that no one he knows running a diff on the front even uses the outdrive rings and they are not really needed as most of the power goes to the rear anyway.

And particually not needed if only running 540 stock like I will be.

Still it bugs me that yet another "error" has made it into a production kit.

Tek Nickal

Long side on the side of the gear and did you put the gear on the right hand side of the bevel gear?

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Mabuchi540: You may have addressed this and I missed it, but someone else suggested that you may have mixed up the front and rear axles. While the dogbones are the same length, the axles are two different lengths. One set is shorter than the other. I don't recall whether the shorter axles go on the front or the rear, though. Either way, you should have axles of two different lengths.

Everything else has already been mentioned: built and installed in the right direction, axle bearings properly seated.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I've been racing my SD Black since April with great success (won the first point series). However, after 3 1/2 months of racing, I decided to finally rebuild my diffs 2 weekends ago. Since rebuilding my diffs, I've been having problems with oversteer under power in the exiting a turn!

I race stock on medium grip asphalt using shore 40 foam tires. I've tried everything I can think of but I can't seem to get rid of the oversteer.

I'd prefer to have push than oversteer. I can drive fast with moderate amounts of push, but oversteer just seems to frustrate my ability to drive fast.

Thanks

agower

sounds like your rear diff is tighter than the front, either loosen rear of tigthen your front which ever is best. always have equal diffs or the front slightly tighter

Sleighty

Well i run a diff with my car and my driveshafts fit fine! I run the outdrive rings also. So whoever told you that is talking complete crap.

I still dont think there are any 'errors' in the kit whatsoever. This is a problem ive never heard of before and i still wonder that you have the spindle part of the driveshaft mixed up somewhere. Either that or the kit has got 3 longer ones and only 1 short one? Have you checked you have those on the correct ends. I know it sounds dumb but I think you should check before you continue slating the car. I really wish i could see your situation coz then i could help you much easier.

Sleighty

You most likely have your rear diff too tight, or your front diff to slack. Tighten your front diff or slacken the rear as this will give you less rear end drive coming out of corners which would stop the on power oversteer you are experiencing

Mabuchi540

Dude you name it I've checked it. I'm probably more anal than anyone when it comes to building. The dogbones are all the same length and the axels are in the right places.

Yet stll the dogbone on the left (when viewed from the front) hits the outdrive ring. I've even noticed there is a 1/4 of a mm difference in how far along the axel the drive pin hole is drilled on the left side compared to the right. But even swapping them around makes no difference.

Hell even the other 4 axels I have in the second kit (which I got as spares) are the same length.

I wonder is it is because the kit is one of the first. It's dated on the instruction book December 2003?

shortygy

No I got my ssg in like september 2003 and everything was fine. I am sure you have sumthing backwards or a wrong sized part. Is it possible for you to post a couple of pics.

Greg

Mabuchi540

Will try the digicam on macro in a little while, will post pics if it works.

Mabuchi540

showing the problem at hand.

I assure all observers that the diff is assembled correctly and in the right way. The dogbones are the same length and the correct axels are being used and the arms are even the same length. I even moved all the shims to one side to move it over further just to see if it made a difference and it doesn't.

Clearly you can see the left side is much closer to where the outdrive ring goes than the right side.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

If the diffs in the CGM are the same as the SSG (which I believe they are ), that part was wrongly put in that particular kit, because it's suppose to look exactly like the right side.
CONTACT YOKOMO or your LHS.
- JaYbEE

ERTRACHTER

CONGRATS TO PAUL D. ON MAKING THE A MAIN ME AND YOU BUDDY ONLY YOKOMOS TO MAKE THE SHOW! LATER JASON

Mabuchi540

It's strange alright because what happend is that I got two CGM kits, (ones that come with front one way units) and took the diff out of one kit so I would have two in the one I was building.

But I also got two sets of spare outdrives for the pit box and I've checked those out of their packets and they are the same as well

ritchie

well the first thing i noticed is your axles are at a extreme downward angle, pulling the axles to the outside of the diff cup.
when the car is finished and you have the wheels on and shocks and the correct droop, and ride height your axles will be level or close to level. never mind the 2mm of thread showing, screw those droop screws in until the axles are level or close to it. let me know.
btw i run a diff and i run the diff rings. so now you know two people.