Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
08-30-2006, 06:43 AM
#16
protoform sells this for 200mm sedans and it will fit the pantoura.
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/protof.../1480/1480.jpg
John Stranahan - go back and check your manual. your rear pivot assembly is assembled incorrectly. this will cause the rear end to bind slightly and the car will not handle properly. the carpet knife instructions will show how this should be assembled.
john
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/protof.../1480/1480.jpg
John Stranahan - go back and check your manual. your rear pivot assembly is assembled incorrectly. this will cause the rear end to bind slightly and the car will not handle properly. the carpet knife instructions will show how this should be assembled.
john
08-30-2006, 07:34 AM
#17
Azmio- Thanks for the gearing report.
John-Thanks. I will recheck the rear and post a new pic. I am also missing one of the nerf wings that will raise the rear side damper assembly up.
Thanks for the posts.
Battery Clearance Trim
I trimmed the center pivot ball housing for battery clearance as suggested in the carpet knife instructions and from a trial fit of the battery. The football is tightened after the side links are installed and does not move. This is good and will allow my batteries to rest against it. I found my Nerf wing.
John
John-Thanks. I will recheck the rear and post a new pic. I am also missing one of the nerf wings that will raise the rear side damper assembly up.
Thanks for the posts.
Battery Clearance Trim
I trimmed the center pivot ball housing for battery clearance as suggested in the carpet knife instructions and from a trial fit of the battery. The football is tightened after the side links are installed and does not move. This is good and will allow my batteries to rest against it. I found my Nerf wing.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-30-2006 at 10:09 AM.
08-30-2006, 08:08 AM
#18
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Adrian
I will be careful. There are no people on the track when I run a practice. I have plenty of stock motors and 19 turns as well. What I was after with the 4.5 is maybe a little less shock to the rear tires from the lower gearing when I applied the throttle. My 6.5 has a really strong bottom end. I can run the 1/8 scale course. The long straight is about 220 feet long.
I have seen the flying car video and read about the cancelled nationals incident because of the flying car. I have seen plenty of 1/8 scale buggies airborn as well. Now that is a really heavy beast with a lot of kinetic energy on board. I used to run one of those with the hottest motor available.
John
I will be careful. There are no people on the track when I run a practice. I have plenty of stock motors and 19 turns as well. What I was after with the 4.5 is maybe a little less shock to the rear tires from the lower gearing when I applied the throttle. My 6.5 has a really strong bottom end. I can run the 1/8 scale course. The long straight is about 220 feet long.
I have seen the flying car video and read about the cancelled nationals incident because of the flying car. I have seen plenty of 1/8 scale buggies airborn as well. Now that is a really heavy beast with a lot of kinetic energy on board. I used to run one of those with the hottest motor available.
John
08-30-2006, 09:13 AM
#19
Center Shock
Here is a view of the Center Associated VCS Microshock. Two springs come in the kit. One Silver (.040 wire) and One copper (.035 inch wire). I had to mount the front pivot in the rear most hole. I put an 82 degrree countersink on the inside as shown above for use with 2S LiPo's.
Recommended center droop about 1 mm when held in the air.
Side damper Fluid?
The side dampers recommended fluid is Losi Hydra Drive Fluid. Is this what you guys use if anybody has this kind of damper. I used to have plenty of that, but no more.
Servos?
The car is complete waiting for a servo saver. Pics of the front to come. My touring car servo is a bit long for the car but will fit with some 1/4 inch spacers. I am wondering if the new short servos are the thing to have on this car to reduce weight on the front.
Here is a view of the Center Associated VCS Microshock. Two springs come in the kit. One Silver (.040 wire) and One copper (.035 inch wire). I had to mount the front pivot in the rear most hole. I put an 82 degrree countersink on the inside as shown above for use with 2S LiPo's.
Recommended center droop about 1 mm when held in the air.
Side damper Fluid?
The side dampers recommended fluid is Losi Hydra Drive Fluid. Is this what you guys use if anybody has this kind of damper. I used to have plenty of that, but no more.
Servos?
The car is complete waiting for a servo saver. Pics of the front to come. My touring car servo is a bit long for the car but will fit with some 1/4 inch spacers. I am wondering if the new short servos are the thing to have on this car to reduce weight on the front.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-30-2006 at 09:32 AM.
08-30-2006, 12:55 PM
#20
John, turn the cone around on the Diff, you want the larger side to be against the bearing...
08-30-2006, 01:40 PM
#22
no you don't. That completely defeats the function of that bearing. . .
The principle is this - the outside of that bearing rests against the hub, the cone sits against the inside which converts the bearing to a "thrust" type bearing - it's going to go bad regularly (luckily they're cheap from rc4less.com and other places) but it works extremely smoothly and reliably (replace as soon as it gets "chunky")
If you reverse the cone - you're pinching the outside wall between the wide part of the cone and the hub. . .doing absolutely nothing.
Here's a pic of how it works:
The cone converts the regular bearing into a thrust bearing by pressing the inner race in while the hub pushes the outer race out. . .by compressing the belville washers (compression type, they should be opposite to the cone - big edge against the cone, small edge against the nut) you can easily adjust how tight or loose your diff is. . .
The principle is this - the outside of that bearing rests against the hub, the cone sits against the inside which converts the bearing to a "thrust" type bearing - it's going to go bad regularly (luckily they're cheap from rc4less.com and other places) but it works extremely smoothly and reliably (replace as soon as it gets "chunky")
If you reverse the cone - you're pinching the outside wall between the wide part of the cone and the hub. . .doing absolutely nothing.
Here's a pic of how it works:
The cone converts the regular bearing into a thrust bearing by pressing the inner race in while the hub pushes the outer race out. . .by compressing the belville washers (compression type, they should be opposite to the cone - big edge against the cone, small edge against the nut) you can easily adjust how tight or loose your diff is. . .
08-30-2006, 01:44 PM
#23
So with that setup, the axle spins freely through the thrust bearing and, via the nut, belville washers and cone, engages the inner race of the bearing. The balls contact both the inner and outer race and communicate the friction and tension providing the various "tightness" or "looseness" of the diff, as you tighten the nut.
I hope that makes sense. . .
I hope that makes sense. . .
08-30-2006, 02:08 PM
#24
Boomer-Thanks for the detailed post. It makes sense to me. Now with the cone reversed though the thrust is transmitted through the point of the cone which could be contacting the point of a bellville washer so that some slip was possible, but some friction is added as well. I wonder if this was the point.
LiPo battery Fitment
Batteries over about .770 inch thick will not fit. Here is a pic of a home modified (Lexan plates removed) 3800 mA-h Apogee Magnum 2S1P LiPo installed in the Pantoura. The fit is tight but adequate. I beveled the lower edges of the battery strap so that the battery would slide in easy from the left side of the chassis. I will mount the speed control on the right side to act as a stop for the battery and to balance the extra heavy and long brushless motor. The left side will need to be kept clear to easily insert the battery. (Note that you can install batterries from the top by removing only the two front screws of the battery strap. The rear of the strap just slips under the graphite knife of the car.) Other batteries that might fit include the new 3200 mA-h graphite look battery from Orion and better yet the 3200 mA-h battery from the aircraft division of Orion that has pigtails (instead of the Orion tube connectors that will require dremelling up the top strap). And of course 4 cell or 6 cell NiMH packs should fit.
LiPo battery Fitment
Batteries over about .770 inch thick will not fit. Here is a pic of a home modified (Lexan plates removed) 3800 mA-h Apogee Magnum 2S1P LiPo installed in the Pantoura. The fit is tight but adequate. I beveled the lower edges of the battery strap so that the battery would slide in easy from the left side of the chassis. I will mount the speed control on the right side to act as a stop for the battery and to balance the extra heavy and long brushless motor. The left side will need to be kept clear to easily insert the battery. (Note that you can install batterries from the top by removing only the two front screws of the battery strap. The rear of the strap just slips under the graphite knife of the car.) Other batteries that might fit include the new 3200 mA-h graphite look battery from Orion and better yet the 3200 mA-h battery from the aircraft division of Orion that has pigtails (instead of the Orion tube connectors that will require dremelling up the top strap). And of course 4 cell or 6 cell NiMH packs should fit.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-01-2006 at 10:11 PM.
08-30-2006, 02:15 PM
#25
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Azmio- Thanks for the gearing report.
John-Thanks. I will recheck the rear and post a new pic. I am also missing one of the nerf wings that will raise the rear side damper assembly up.
Thanks for the posts.
Battery Clearance Trim
I trimmed the center pivot ball housing for battery clearance as suggested in the carpet knife instructions and from a trial fit of the battery. The football is tightened after the side links are installed and does not move. This is good and will allow my batteries to rest against it. I found my Nerf wing.
John
John-Thanks. I will recheck the rear and post a new pic. I am also missing one of the nerf wings that will raise the rear side damper assembly up.
Thanks for the posts.
Battery Clearance Trim
I trimmed the center pivot ball housing for battery clearance as suggested in the carpet knife instructions and from a trial fit of the battery. The football is tightened after the side links are installed and does not move. This is good and will allow my batteries to rest against it. I found my Nerf wing.
John
john
08-30-2006, 02:23 PM
#27
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Center Shock
Here is a view of the Center Associated VCS Microshock. Two springs come in the kit. One Silver (.040 wire) and One copper (.035 inch wire). I had to mount the front pivot in the rear most hole. I put an 82 degrree countersink on the inside as shown above for use with 2S LiPo's.
Recommended center droop about 1 mm when held in the air.
Side damper Fluid?
The side dampers recommended fluid is Losi Hydra Drive Fluid. Is this what you guys use if anybody has this kind of damper. I used to have plenty of that, but no more.
Servos?
The car is complete waiting for a servo saver. Pics of the front to come. My touring car servo is a bit long for the car but will fit with some 1/4 inch spacers. I am wondering if the new short servos are the thing to have on this car to reduce weight on the front.
Here is a view of the Center Associated VCS Microshock. Two springs come in the kit. One Silver (.040 wire) and One copper (.035 inch wire). I had to mount the front pivot in the rear most hole. I put an 82 degrree countersink on the inside as shown above for use with 2S LiPo's.
Recommended center droop about 1 mm when held in the air.
Side damper Fluid?
The side dampers recommended fluid is Losi Hydra Drive Fluid. Is this what you guys use if anybody has this kind of damper. I used to have plenty of that, but no more.
Servos?
The car is complete waiting for a servo saver. Pics of the front to come. My touring car servo is a bit long for the car but will fit with some 1/4 inch spacers. I am wondering if the new short servos are the thing to have on this car to reduce weight on the front.
Just some random thoughts on this:
Shock-use a HPI or Tamiya shock instead for the added volume of shock oil and longterm reliability.
Damper lubes. Silicone diff lubes (1000, 5,000 and 10,000 wt from OFNA or CRC makes a light, Heavy and extra Heavy lube for damper tubes.
The Futaba 9550 and KO's new digital servos would free up room for a reciver or esc to fit behinf it, but they wont save you any appreiciable amount of weight. They are short and heavy.
My last 1/10th pan car was a modern 9x1 and GP3300 and that poor diff was squaking like mad. I had it barely acting like a diff to keep it from slipping. Definately sand the rings, use carbide diff balls and AE silicone lube (not Stealth) to keep the diff from slipping.
Good luck and I am envious of your project. As a buddy of mine said before I ran my rocket, when you hit the strightaway-look at the end of the straight before you hit the throttle. he was right!!
Ray
08-30-2006, 04:05 PM
#28
oooops... My bad.... been a while since I've actually taken my diffs apart, plus I'm running thrust bearings....
08-30-2006, 04:28 PM
#29
no problem
Ray-Thanks for the tips. My Hobby shop should have those fluids.
Front Wheel
I have an Associated RC12 front end on the Pantoura. It has the threaded axle that can take a nut to secure the wheel. There are two small bearings for the wheel to run on. I got some GRP 4 bolt rear tires from Tower that seem like they will fit fine. The front, what I thought was the matching 1/10 on-road wheel, just has a hole that does fit the outside of the bearings but the bearing has no stops-countersink to keep the wheel from moving side to side. Is this the wrong wheel or do I need flanged bearings or some kind of spacers inside the wheel. They don't seem to be touring car wheels as there is no provision to drive the wheel.
Ray-Thanks for the tips. My Hobby shop should have those fluids.
Front Wheel
I have an Associated RC12 front end on the Pantoura. It has the threaded axle that can take a nut to secure the wheel. There are two small bearings for the wheel to run on. I got some GRP 4 bolt rear tires from Tower that seem like they will fit fine. The front, what I thought was the matching 1/10 on-road wheel, just has a hole that does fit the outside of the bearings but the bearing has no stops-countersink to keep the wheel from moving side to side. Is this the wrong wheel or do I need flanged bearings or some kind of spacers inside the wheel. They don't seem to be touring car wheels as there is no provision to drive the wheel.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-31-2006 at 07:26 AM.