Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

That seems rather... well, stupid.

I did some setup changes today, and I realized how important rear diff tightness is just by loosening the rear diff and changing to a thicker sway bar I was able to push the car so much harder now without having the rear end step out. But I still need to somehow gain at least .5 seconds per lap.

BIG DADDY8

iTrader: (65)

whats the easiest way to see if the chassis is tweeked. If it is whats the easiest way to fix. THe problem im having is on power it want to pull to the left on the straight

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

Do you run RCGT? That class doesn't allow 1-ways.

Do one thing at a time. Change the front shock wt first.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Not too sure how to see tweek, one method I've told to remove is to loosen of the chassis plate screws and just let the carbon fibre to re-settle it self for a day or so and then re-tighten the screws.

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

The easiest way is to lay your car (without wheels) on an ultra flat surface such as a setup board or perhaps, a glass table top. Look at the chassis at eye level and if it doesn't sit perfectly flat on the table top, then it is tweeked.

The easiest fix is to loosen the screws on your top deck and then press down on each end of your car as your re-tighten your screws. If that doesn't fix the tweek, then loosen all the screws for your top deck, bulkheads, bearing caps, shock towers and then carfully re-tighten then evening. If that still doesn't fix the tweek, then you may have a tweeked chassis or even a bent bulkhead. Also, pay attention to your battery and how you tape and/or screw the battery mount on as it can tweek your chassis, too.

jwq500rc

iTrader: (3)

I'm not a newbie, but I have a question that makes me feel like one. Reading this thread I see to build the shocks with no or very little rebound. I've tried everything to get there, but I still get alot of rebound. What I'm I doing wrong?

Thanks
Jim

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

Real carbon fiber is very dimensionally stable. You can bend it out of shape for a year and as soon as you relax the force, it will snap back to the original shape. That's one of the great things about carbon fiber. So if it's real carbon fiber and it was flat to begin with, it will go back to flat as soon as you remove any forces acting on it. Using a surface plate to install the top deck is good advice. Also, keep in mind that things like the battery straps, clamps, screws can tweak the chassis as well.

Using a tweak station is a good way to get your wheels on the same plane. A good practice is to set the front wheels level with the chassis first. Shorten the tweak station and set the chassis on the stationary tweak bar, just in front of the rear wheels to do this. Then set the tweak bars to the wheelbase and set the front wheels on the stationary bar and adjust the rears. This way the tires and chassis will both be on the same plane.

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

Check out the post I made a few pages back http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...d-tc5-807.html. That's how I bleed my shocks and I have zero rebound everytime.

intimidator

My tc5 has a solid diff,is that what comes with a new kit?Whats the correct length to build the shocks?

jwq500rc

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Bfong. I'll give that a try. What size hole should I drill in the cap?

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

Actually, I just used a body reamer to make the bleeder holes. The bleeder hole should be really small, just enough so that any air can evacuate from the cap. If you notice towards the bottom of the post I mentioned, I posted a picture of the actual bleeder hole in the shock cap. Hope this helps.

jwq500rc

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again bfong. I used a 1/16 bit, and it seams to work fine. At least I have no rebound. I won't race again until next Sunday, so I'll try this setup then.

Jim

pakk

iTrader: (80)

That's where I ended up for the day.

My best weekend by far with this car. The car is very drivable, predictable, and stable. I would have played with more adjustments, but there is only so much time in a day.

I could always use more on power high speed steering if it is possible. I know there is only so much possible. If you have anymore suggestions to try, I'm all ears.

--pakk

bfong13

iTrader: (18)

Did you get a chance to try the diff in the front or did you stay with the spool (slipper spool or regular spool?)?

Also, have you tried running sway bars since you changed to this new setup?

I see what you're trying to do by moving the front shocks to 4b...you're trying to get the front end to react.

At this point, I'd probably recommend trying sway bars again. Also, perhaps even going thicker with your front oil, perhaps 50 or 60wt. Prior to changing from a slipper spool to a 1-way, I ran 60wt and a silver sway bar in the front and 40wt with a black sway bar in the rear. It ran alright, but also needed more on-power steering. It didn't really get good Tamiya/X-Ray smack down steering until I switched to the 6deg caster and the 1-way.

Are you running RCGT and that's why you can't run the 1-way?

steve eaves

iTrader: (74)

Does anyone know where i can get a set of inline rear bulkheads?Just recently switched from losi back to the 5.