Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I think Dawgmeat means he used the Y brace on top of the top deck where the 4 screws are located, as the spacing for the Y brace is the same as the top deck. I use the Y brace at the front of the deck just to give it a little more strength when I run the stock top deck.

The front and rear Y braces are the same, not sure about the aluminum mounts though..........have to check.

Brian10811

iTrader: (4)

I have a RSD 1.5 and 2.0mm top deck. I Think it is very firm and don't think I will need the Y brace for that area. I have been reading about the Y brace on the rear shock tower. I am not quite sure how that brace helps in a vertical position. I have been just trying to find out the theory behind it and what it benefits.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

I think your car Saturday was good!! Best I have seen so far some fast laps for sure too bad you got hacked !

Brian10811

iTrader: (4)

Yes I totally agree on both. My X20 finally took the lead out once I solved the chassis flex. As for the hack goes. It never fails I always find the low class person that thinks hacking me is better than me passing them. lol
After reading on both X20 forums I feel that I have the flex under control and can focus on the fine tune to get to your speed.

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Brian10811

iTrader: (4)

The Y brace acts as a center post at each end of the car. I think with the mounting on the upper deck only stiffens the upper deck.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

with the esc in the back how are you running you wire to the receiver?

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...20-airtube-v45

Brian10811

iTrader: (4)

I run the esc wire to RX under the motoer near the motor mount. Check out the link someone posted up on the X20 FB group. This might be helpful.
Also I mounted the cap on the other side beside the battery. That is the standard way. I kind of made a mode to clean it up a bit more. Everything including the cap goes into the box. No worries of extra wires or even if you need to add weight. You can put the weights on the bottom inside the box.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

well all i can say is wow, i had a test and tune this weekend with the car on asphalt box setup and was very pleased with the car. looking forward to my first race.

Brian10811

iTrader: (4)

I am glad it worked out for you. I really don't know your track condition or surface or even the class you run but for me it was a learning curve. The tracks I race on have medium to high grip so the stock setup (for stock class 17.5) did not work. My point is if the traction starts to come up and your lap times are not increasing. Don't change setup but change chassis stiffness. The car has lots of flex and this is something was very new to me. If you think you will be running on a higher bite track I would invest in middle chassis to upper deck post. This will stiffen the car quite a bit.
In fact I really like this tuning option now. I can add or take away flex in different areas to find the extra speed. The car is VERY fast and has a very good forgiving feel. Plus the parts are very durable.
The only issue is with all mid motors. The front belt will come off track if you have a direct hit. Perhaps the middle post will help with that TBD.
I hope this helps someone.

ntz

Hello from Greece! I just bought a x20 mostly bcs i want to make a new project and the pivotball solution is smth different to other kits. I race only xray cars. I have two questions: Is it normal that my front driveshafts came already prebuild?? And secondly and most important: although at front of the chassis there is the small hole for balancing tool, at the back there is nothing. How do you balance (L-R) your car? Is there a balancing tool specific for the car or a similar solution??

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Welcome to the crew.

1 - DJC come pre-assembled but you should take them apart and lubricate them. Also make sure you have the c-clips hooks rotating the correct direction for each side of the car. The hook should lead into the rotation. I also put a very small dab of glue on the c-clip so they don't fall off.

2 - For the back hole just put a 3mm flathead screw and nut in that open hole, then balance as normal.

ntz

Thank you for the info.

1. Acrylic glue or smth more "soft"?? In parts where I don't want "permanent" bond I use "shoe goo"(hudy) or nail polish (especially in plastic parts). Do the front driveshafts from the FWD car fit ours??
2. I was thinking of doing that, bcs I will put the rear stiffener mount, so there will be a m3 screw.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

1. - i use fast setting glue, and very little, just a small dab on the barrel avoiding the cross pin locations....its just enough to hold the clip in place, some people use shrink wrap over the entire djc barrel. I like the glue. Shoe goo would probably work too.

2. - that will work as well.

If you do disassemble the DJC take note that there are 2 different sized spring clips, don't mix them up or one will be a little loose and the other will not cover the cross pin completely.