CO27
05-08-2006, 11:13 AM
#226
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
dgullickson,
Thank for that bit of info...I would of never determined that different motors from the same type (CO27, P2K2, Monster) could require different gearing without banging my head on the wall a few times.
To recap, the properties I associate with these types of motors are general guidelines ie:
P2k2 - Torquey
Monster - RPMish
CO27 - Torquey & RPM
Different CO27's will be geared differently to acheive best possible performance on track. This obviosuly applies to any other type of motor, right? This could explain why racers have many motors of the same type.
All very interesting - Thanks for the info
Thank for that bit of info...I would of never determined that different motors from the same type (CO27, P2K2, Monster) could require different gearing without banging my head on the wall a few times.
To recap, the properties I associate with these types of motors are general guidelines ie:
P2k2 - Torquey
Monster - RPMish
CO27 - Torquey & RPM
Different CO27's will be geared differently to acheive best possible performance on track. This obviosuly applies to any other type of motor, right? This could explain why racers have many motors of the same type.
All very interesting - Thanks for the info
05-08-2006, 12:02 PM
#228
Originally Posted by CaliberX
dgullickson,
Thank for that bit of info...I would of never determined that different motors from the same type (CO27, P2K2, Monster) could require different gearing without banging my head on the wall a few times.
To recap, the properties I associate with these types of motors are general guidelines ie:
P2k2 - Torquey
Monster - RPMish
CO27 - Torquey & RPM
Different CO27's will be geared differently to acheive best possible performance on track. This obviosuly applies to any other type of motor, right? This could explain why racers have many motors of the same type.
All very interesting - Thanks for the info
Thank for that bit of info...I would of never determined that different motors from the same type (CO27, P2K2, Monster) could require different gearing without banging my head on the wall a few times.
To recap, the properties I associate with these types of motors are general guidelines ie:
P2k2 - Torquey
Monster - RPMish
CO27 - Torquey & RPM
Different CO27's will be geared differently to acheive best possible performance on track. This obviosuly applies to any other type of motor, right? This could explain why racers have many motors of the same type.
All very interesting - Thanks for the info
05-08-2006, 01:24 PM
#230
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Thanks all for the info. If my posts shed a bad light on Team Brood - I take it back.
Motor still sucks, I came to realise through this discussion that this is not Team Brood's fault.
Time to get some F-Brushes, work on the gearing. I just finished the first racing series at our track, and although I have somewhat of a feel for motors on the track, I don't have the experience to gear from it.
Is there a quantitive variable I can use to help me gear until I get the "feel". I'm thinking along of end bell temp? If temp can be used, what kind of temp should I be looking at, and measured where (can, endbell?)
Motor still sucks, I came to realise through this discussion that this is not Team Brood's fault.
Time to get some F-Brushes, work on the gearing. I just finished the first racing series at our track, and although I have somewhat of a feel for motors on the track, I don't have the experience to gear from it.
Is there a quantitive variable I can use to help me gear until I get the "feel". I'm thinking along of end bell temp? If temp can be used, what kind of temp should I be looking at, and measured where (can, endbell?)
05-08-2006, 02:51 PM
#231
Temp is a good way to go when playing with gearing, but it can be a little odd at the same time.
I started with a motor at 7.5... moved to 7.3 and it got a little hotter. I was aprehensive to do so.. but I went to 7.0. Came off a little hotter yet... but the motor was getting better. 6.8... even better... little cooler 6.6... even cooler, but TONS more rip. Going to try a little lower yet next time at the track... got faster every time I added a tooth to the gearing. (lap times)
Just remember to run a few laps... pull off and check the motor temp and give it a sniff. If its all good... run some more and see how it goes.
Above all else - WATCH YOUR LAP TIMES!
I started with a motor at 7.5... moved to 7.3 and it got a little hotter. I was aprehensive to do so.. but I went to 7.0. Came off a little hotter yet... but the motor was getting better. 6.8... even better... little cooler 6.6... even cooler, but TONS more rip. Going to try a little lower yet next time at the track... got faster every time I added a tooth to the gearing. (lap times)
Just remember to run a few laps... pull off and check the motor temp and give it a sniff. If its all good... run some more and see how it goes.
Above all else - WATCH YOUR LAP TIMES!
05-08-2006, 03:06 PM
#232
Originally Posted by CaliberX
Thanks all for the info. If my posts shed a bad light on Team Brood - I take it back.
Motor still sucks, I came to realise through this discussion that this is not Team Brood's fault.
Time to get some F-Brushes, work on the gearing. I just finished the first racing series at our track, and although I have somewhat of a feel for motors on the track, I don't have the experience to gear from it.
Is there a quantitive variable I can use to help me gear until I get the "feel". I'm thinking along of end bell temp? If temp can be used, what kind of temp should I be looking at, and measured where (can, endbell?)
Motor still sucks, I came to realise through this discussion that this is not Team Brood's fault.
Time to get some F-Brushes, work on the gearing. I just finished the first racing series at our track, and although I have somewhat of a feel for motors on the track, I don't have the experience to gear from it.
Is there a quantitive variable I can use to help me gear until I get the "feel". I'm thinking along of end bell temp? If temp can be used, what kind of temp should I be looking at, and measured where (can, endbell?)
Also, I know I'll probably get slammed for this by the non-dyno guys, but I would suggest finding someone at your local club that has a TurboDyno or a Robitronic and just have them run a pass on the motors for you. If you have a motor that works already well for you, use it as a baseline, and then dyno your new motors. If they have more torque and less RPM, then lower the gear ratio a bit on the new motor. More RPM, and less torque, then do the opposite.
Lap times are always the best guide, but sometimes you can get a bit of a head-start on your tuning efforts if you look at the characteristics of your old motor, and compare them with new ones that you are going to introduce into your rotation.
05-29-2006, 01:01 PM
#234
Originally Posted by floodo1
using a fantom dyno just to get peak numbers that you'd pring on labels is a waste and folly both.
the folly has been pointed out....the peak, label type, numbers arent worth much. high power motors run poorly and torque doesnt tell you enuf.
the waste is that the graphs are the whole POINT of having a computer controlled dyno, esp one that measures acceleration.
the best way to use the fantom is to start with a motor that you know. something that you run all the time and know it well. dyno it and save the file. then dyno another motor and compare the graphs to each other. by doing this its easy to spot that some motors need way more or less gearing based on their torque (and hence power) curves. then run the new motor, try some different gearings.
repeat with other motors until you learn how to interpret curve variations and gear accordignly, as well as realize when one curve just isnt as good as another
as has been stated, used properly the fantom is a great tool, used improperly it will ruin you
the folly has been pointed out....the peak, label type, numbers arent worth much. high power motors run poorly and torque doesnt tell you enuf.
the waste is that the graphs are the whole POINT of having a computer controlled dyno, esp one that measures acceleration.
the best way to use the fantom is to start with a motor that you know. something that you run all the time and know it well. dyno it and save the file. then dyno another motor and compare the graphs to each other. by doing this its easy to spot that some motors need way more or less gearing based on their torque (and hence power) curves. then run the new motor, try some different gearings.
repeat with other motors until you learn how to interpret curve variations and gear accordignly, as well as realize when one curve just isnt as good as another
as has been stated, used properly the fantom is a great tool, used improperly it will ruin you
05-30-2006, 11:58 AM
#238
Originally Posted by John Tag
Hey Lester.... Well only having raced there 1 time I can get you a good starting point. For rubber tires gear around 29mm roll out to start on a CO27 with F brushes and red springs installed.. Hope this helps.. 
Ok i'm not familular with the 29mm roll out and i don't know how to calcualte something like that could you please explain?
05-30-2006, 09:17 PM
#240
Originally Posted by Leester
Ok i'm not familular with the 29mm roll out and i don't know how to calcualte something like that could you please explain?
