272LikesXRAY T4'19 SPEC
12-05-2018, 01:31 AM
#212
12-05-2018, 08:54 AM
#215
The fast guy at my track on the '18 used the 7075it stuff in the cutout under the battery, insert in the servo mount, and maybe the motor mount foot plate. Beyond that, I think he just used flat lead weights up under the steering, and I think one on each side in the rear, behind motor / battery. Any remaining was just flat weight in the middle of the car. He ran a lot of alu / ti screws and protoform Pro-Lite body. He said something about wanting the weight to move around more by not just having it in the middle (basically higher moment of inertia).
IMO suspension mounts are too expensive to do in brass. But I guess they do make the car look cleaner.
12-06-2018, 08:05 AM
#217
Tech Initiate
How long should shocks be, measured from the centre of each eyelet? SLP and ULP if there’s a difference. Thanks in advance.
12-06-2018, 01:16 PM
#218
I'm not sure there is a magic number for this. I like to set mine by screwing the lower eyelet all the way on then backing it out 1/2-1 turn. Then, I tweak each shock to be sure they are the same length.
12-06-2018, 01:46 PM
#220
Tech Initiate
12-07-2018, 12:01 PM
#221
I was told to post this in here rather than in it's own thread:
Hi,
I have never used a setup sheet before and I am confused on the wheelbase shims. On the t4 '16 the manual shows putting a 1mm shim before and after the arm. How to you mark this on the set up sheet. To me it appears to only have provisions to mark what you put on the front of the arm. So am I right that in stock setup you would mark the middle 1mm because only one shim is in the front? A short wheelbase (front setup) would have both 1mm marked and a long wheelbase would have the 0 marked?
Sorry if my question is confusing. The only rc car I have ever raced before this car was a m18pro which doesn't have all these setup options.
Also does anyone happen to have an out of the box per the manual setup sheet for the t4 '16 filled out?
I have never used a setup sheet before and I am confused on the wheelbase shims. On the t4 '16 the manual shows putting a 1mm shim before and after the arm. How to you mark this on the set up sheet. To me it appears to only have provisions to mark what you put on the front of the arm. So am I right that in stock setup you would mark the middle 1mm because only one shim is in the front? A short wheelbase (front setup) would have both 1mm marked and a long wheelbase would have the 0 marked?
Sorry if my question is confusing. The only rc car I have ever raced before this car was a m18pro which doesn't have all these setup options.
Also does anyone happen to have an out of the box per the manual setup sheet for the t4 '16 filled out?
12-07-2018, 02:39 PM
#222
The sheet shows the shims in front of the arm. The rest to make up 2mm goes behind the arm.
Base setups for the T4'16 can be found here:
https://www.teamxray.com/t4/2016/download/
Base setups for the T4'16 can be found here:
https://www.teamxray.com/t4/2016/download/
12-07-2018, 04:08 PM
#223
How's the car holding up for you guys? I run indoor black crc carpet and so far I've only broken a rear turnbuckle. My son drives it and beat the crap out of the car. I'm on my 3rd body and the car is holding up really well
12-07-2018, 04:09 PM
#224
I am using the extra hard bumper though.
12-09-2018, 01:53 PM
#225
Back from the race.
I was running my freshly built '19 - see above, first new xray since my '17 which had served me well and was a peach to drive.
My first day with the '19 was an absolute disaster, possibly my worst race of the past 20 years. The car was desperately loose, mostly in the sweeper entry and in the chicane.
Layout was tight and technical, except the sweeper (which was not smooth but more of a abrupt entry one, and then smooth). Lo-grip carpet. We run Rex30's and boosted 13.5's. My car was setup as per the stock setup sheet, except the aluminium extra-flex chassis, and 2.5-2.8F. Montech Racer snug with the front bumper. The rest, all stock. Electronics from the previous race, where they did better than fine. I could not get the car to behave, I never found a way to be confortable with the car and "pilot" it, and could only drive very conservatively. Heck, did spin out a couple of times in the sweeper...
Things I've done during the day to no avail, in that order
- tried another set of tires
- glued front sidewalls
- go to 2.7F/2.5R
- go from 450R to 350
- removed the front brace
- toyed around with screws on motor mount
- swapped the alloy chassis to cwf one (yes... I did that during raceday and missed a couple of mains)
- go 5K diff
- heck, even changed motors and speedo setup
Checks I did during the day
- check that I hadn't swapped L/R C-hubs (for caster...)
- changed diffs (in case there was a warped something in there with a missing tooth or whatever)
- detweak after every run (not that it needed it... still do it all the time)
- checked for a binding transmission, it's 100.0% smooth and free
- no fleeing CVD pins
you get the idea.
The car was very very very edgy, I basically had to "endure" it all day and feather the throttle rather than drive it. I'm usually a mid-to-bottom A-mainer with 50/60 or so entries, and this time there were only 29 drivers due to a calendar conflict... and I was bottom of the B, and duking it out with people who usually are two mains below me. I understand I'm getting older and all and the younger guns are getting faster, but the car really really wasn't helping and I was doing one mistake every couple of laps or so, losing the rear all the time. When this is the case, usually it's the tires, but I did pull out 2 sets of Rex30's that day. Statistically, it can't be that.
At this point in time I'm wondering whether I've missed something during the assembly, or whether the nature of the car is to be edgy as hell... I can't believe it's the latter. Xrays are meant to be the RC equivalent of a gucci loafer, ie a confortable car that about works right out of the box with no efforts. Saturday, mine was a POS.
I'll tear it down fully and rebuild it from the ground up. If you have any good suggestions...
Thanks,
Paul
I was running my freshly built '19 - see above, first new xray since my '17 which had served me well and was a peach to drive.
My first day with the '19 was an absolute disaster, possibly my worst race of the past 20 years. The car was desperately loose, mostly in the sweeper entry and in the chicane.
Layout was tight and technical, except the sweeper (which was not smooth but more of a abrupt entry one, and then smooth). Lo-grip carpet. We run Rex30's and boosted 13.5's. My car was setup as per the stock setup sheet, except the aluminium extra-flex chassis, and 2.5-2.8F. Montech Racer snug with the front bumper. The rest, all stock. Electronics from the previous race, where they did better than fine. I could not get the car to behave, I never found a way to be confortable with the car and "pilot" it, and could only drive very conservatively. Heck, did spin out a couple of times in the sweeper...
Things I've done during the day to no avail, in that order
- tried another set of tires
- glued front sidewalls
- go to 2.7F/2.5R
- go from 450R to 350
- removed the front brace
- toyed around with screws on motor mount
- swapped the alloy chassis to cwf one (yes... I did that during raceday and missed a couple of mains)
- go 5K diff
- heck, even changed motors and speedo setup
Checks I did during the day
- check that I hadn't swapped L/R C-hubs (for caster...)
- changed diffs (in case there was a warped something in there with a missing tooth or whatever)
- detweak after every run (not that it needed it... still do it all the time)
- checked for a binding transmission, it's 100.0% smooth and free
- no fleeing CVD pins
you get the idea.
The car was very very very edgy, I basically had to "endure" it all day and feather the throttle rather than drive it. I'm usually a mid-to-bottom A-mainer with 50/60 or so entries, and this time there were only 29 drivers due to a calendar conflict... and I was bottom of the B, and duking it out with people who usually are two mains below me. I understand I'm getting older and all and the younger guns are getting faster, but the car really really wasn't helping and I was doing one mistake every couple of laps or so, losing the rear all the time. When this is the case, usually it's the tires, but I did pull out 2 sets of Rex30's that day. Statistically, it can't be that.
At this point in time I'm wondering whether I've missed something during the assembly, or whether the nature of the car is to be edgy as hell... I can't believe it's the latter. Xrays are meant to be the RC equivalent of a gucci loafer, ie a confortable car that about works right out of the box with no efforts. Saturday, mine was a POS.
I'll tear it down fully and rebuild it from the ground up. If you have any good suggestions...
Thanks,
Paul
I run my T4'19 graphite edition on lower grip CRC Grey ozite carpet with JACO Blue as the spec tire and no glue on the front sidewalls. I have no experience the tires you are on. I was worried that the ultra-low shocks wouldn't be very good on the surface I run on, however, I have found the base setup to be lethargic rather than edgy and I've had to make changes to the setup to add response and steering.
Just wanted to share my experience, best of luck next time out.