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XRAY T4'19 SPEC

Old 11-27-2018, 02:45 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by IJsbier
I had some traction roll in the corner after the straight on a carpet track. What would be the first thing to change? I was running with a 2.7 spring in the rear, would running a softer rear spring help? Or should I make the front wider?
Was it at corner entry, mid corner or exit of the corner after the straight? In general I would reduce ride height to 5mm if not already, reduce droop all round, raise rear roll centre, widen track width. If you get snap roll your setup may be too stiff, if you get lazy roll it may be too soft.

You may also need to glue side wall of tires as some people do and you could try stiffer roll bars.

This is just what works for me, others may have better advice.
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:00 AM
  #182  
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Softening and widening the front end is also quite effective as well as running a lighter body shell, Bittydesign Ult, Montech Leggera or Protoform Prolite bodies are quite effective.
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:24 PM
  #183  
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Glue the front side wall is the most effective option. Everyone who runs at 360 v2 does it. It's an super high traction black crc track.
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:55 AM
  #184  
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I'm about to finish mine for raceday this saturday - great piece of kit, was still running the '17 until a few weeks ago and I don't expect a handling revolution... but the "new car effect" is always nice and helping by a couple of tenths I'm running on lo-grip carpet, so I went the aluminium extra-flex chassis way to get the flex and the weight low, it should drive like a carbon one, but easier... we shall see.

Only thing that irks me with this car so far is the upper shock mount screws... with the ULP design, they hit the camber links... then again if it's the only thing, eh
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:47 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
I'm about to finish mine for raceday this saturday - great piece of kit, was still running the '17 until a few weeks ago and I don't expect a handling revolution... but the "new car effect" is always nice and helping by a couple of tenths I'm running on lo-grip carpet, so I went the aluminium extra-flex chassis way to get the flex and the weight low, it should drive like a carbon one, but easier... we shall see.

Only thing that irks me with this car so far is the upper shock mount screws... with the ULP design, they hit the camber links... then again if it's the only thing, eh
I use a ball hex driver to get in there to hold the screw when changing/mounting the shocks.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:07 AM
  #186  
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Yeah, that was an annoyance for me during assembly, and again at the track when I was changing the screw to run more shims. But it seems like shock angle and shims are pretty much fixed for this car, so I don't expect it to be annoyance going forward.

Thing more annoying thing is the lipo backstop being in the way of the motor mount screw. But a ball tip driver gets around that well enough.

I was impressed with the build on mine, aside from an incorrect ball stud in the steering bag (but there was an extra correct one in the ARS bag), and one of the shims for the rear upright being 3.6mm instead of 4mm (which I fixed with 2x 2mm shims). Oh, and a lower shock ball the had crooked thread, but a local team driver gave me a replacement for that. The fit between the arms and hinge pins was better than I had on my 16 or 14s. Usually some reaming and polishing was required to get the arms free, but on the 19 it seemed pretty optional.

The worst part of the build for me is always the servo saver.
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:34 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
Thing more annoying thing is the lipo backstop being in the way of the motor mount screw. But a ball tip driver gets around that well enough.

I was impressed with the build on mine, aside from an incorrect ball stud in the steering bag (but there was an extra correct one in the ARS bag), and one of the shims for the rear upright being 3.6mm instead of 4mm (which I fixed with 2x 2mm shims). Oh, and a lower shock ball the had crooked thread, but a local team driver gave me a replacement for that. The fit between the arms and hinge pins was better than I had on my 16 or 14s. Usually some reaming and polishing was required to get the arms free, but on the 19 it seemed pretty optional.

The worst part of the build for me is always the servo saver.
True on the lipo backstop, forgot about that one... i will pull out the dremel when I can to fix it indeed! On the other hand, the self-made system I had set up on my '17 was much worse actually

You had a very unusual string of mishaps in your kit... very unlucky batch, sorry to hear. You might want to point it out to the manufacturers as they certainly pride themselves into having perfect kits! Mine was perfect, I'm happy to report. I remember doing minor filing / reaming on my '17, but this is spot-on right out of the box.

If you are an ok racer and you can drive consistently, I would recommend to run without a servo saver, if only to give it a go once... it was a revelation for me a few years back. If you're gonna keep a servo saver, the xray one is the absolute best, though - and the flipside of this is that it is so stiff that assembling it is a true torture... can't have it all I guess

Originally Posted by mracer1
I use a ball hex driver to get in there to hold the screw when changing/mounting the shocks.
yes - does work!
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:39 AM
  #188  
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If you are considering running an aluminum servo arm but are concerned about damaging your servo, I would recommend the XB2 solid plastic servo arms. I have been using these on asphalt and carpet with some success for about a year. I have not experienced any servo issues since using these like you might with an aluminum arm. At worst I have stripped the plastic arm, which has happened maybe once and was probably self-inflicted.

https://www.rcamerica.com/xb2-2019-c...rms-set-356200
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:25 AM
  #189  
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My griprol was at mid corner I think. Next time I'm at RAL I will make my rear rol center higher and widen the front.
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:45 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
The worst part of the build for me is always the servo saver.
The trick is to assemble the plastic pieces and snap on each c clip one by one.

Takes mere moments that way. And is very easy.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:51 PM
  #191  
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Hey guys,
here my TC Stock setup from the US Indoor Champs. We use the same setup in USGT with a Bittydesign Venom body and a 2018 bottom alu-flex chassis, so no front brace.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...and2018112425/

Also, we used some trick from the website The Rc Racer (https://www.thercracer.com), check it out !

Thanks,
Alex
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Old 12-01-2018, 06:35 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by Penz316
Hey guys,
here my TC Stock setup from the US Indoor Champs. We use the same setup in USGT with a Bittydesign Venom body and a 2018 bottom alu-flex chassis, so no front brace.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...and2018112425/

Also, we used some trick from the website The Rc Racer (https://www.thercracer.com), check it out !

Thanks,
Alex
Hey Alex, can you give us a more specific item/post to look for over the rc racer site?
tia
Mike ;>)
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Old 12-01-2018, 06:56 PM
  #193  
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https://www.thercracer.com/2018/11/x...d-and.html?m=0

I think every weight detail is important when we run stock. We try to keep it as low that we are able to...
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:07 AM
  #194  
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Back from the race.

I was running my freshly built '19 - see above, first new xray since my '17 which had served me well and was a peach to drive.

My first day with the '19 was an absolute disaster, possibly my worst race of the past 20 years. The car was desperately loose, mostly in the sweeper entry and in the chicane.

Layout was tight and technical, except the sweeper (which was not smooth but more of a abrupt entry one, and then smooth). Lo-grip carpet. We run Rex30's and boosted 13.5's. My car was setup as per the stock setup sheet, except the aluminium extra-flex chassis, and 2.5-2.8F. Montech Racer snug with the front bumper. The rest, all stock. Electronics from the previous race, where they did better than fine. I could not get the car to behave, I never found a way to be confortable with the car and "pilot" it, and could only drive very conservatively. Heck, did spin out a couple of times in the sweeper...

Things I've done during the day to no avail, in that order
- tried another set of tires
- glued front sidewalls
- go to 2.7F/2.5R
- go from 450R to 350
- removed the front brace
- toyed around with screws on motor mount
- swapped the alloy chassis to cwf one (yes... I did that during raceday and missed a couple of mains)
- go 5K diff
- heck, even changed motors and speedo setup

Checks I did during the day
- check that I hadn't swapped L/R C-hubs (for caster...)
- changed diffs (in case there was a warped something in there with a missing tooth or whatever)
- detweak after every run (not that it needed it... still do it all the time)
- checked for a binding transmission, it's 100.0% smooth and free
- no fleeing CVD pins
you get the idea.

The car was very very very edgy, I basically had to "endure" it all day and feather the throttle rather than drive it. I'm usually a mid-to-bottom A-mainer with 50/60 or so entries, and this time there were only 29 drivers due to a calendar conflict... and I was bottom of the B, and duking it out with people who usually are two mains below me. I understand I'm getting older and all and the younger guns are getting faster, but the car really really wasn't helping and I was doing one mistake every couple of laps or so, losing the rear all the time. When this is the case, usually it's the tires, but I did pull out 2 sets of Rex30's that day. Statistically, it can't be that.

At this point in time I'm wondering whether I've missed something during the assembly, or whether the nature of the car is to be edgy as hell... I can't believe it's the latter. Xrays are meant to be the RC equivalent of a gucci loafer, ie a confortable car that about works right out of the box with no efforts. Saturday, mine was a POS.

I'll tear it down fully and rebuild it from the ground up. If you have any good suggestions...

Thanks,
Paul

Last edited by Lonestar; 12-03-2018 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 12-03-2018, 04:18 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Back from the race.

I was running my freshly built '19 - see above, first new xray since my '17 which had served me well and was a peach to drive.

My first day with the '19 was an absolute disaster, possibly my worst race of the past 20 years. The car was desperately loose, mostly in the sweeper entry and in the chicane.

Layout was tight and technical, except the sweeper (which was not smooth but more of a abrupt entry one, and then smooth). Lo-grip carpet. We run Rex30's and boosted 13.5's. My car was setup as per the stock setup sheet, except the aluminium extra-flex chassis, and 2.5-2.8F. Montech Racer snug with the front bumper. The rest, all stock. Electronics from the previous race, where they did better than fine. I could not get the car to behave, I never found a way to be confortable with the car and "pilot" it, and could only drive very conservatively. Heck, did spin out a couple of times in the sweeper...

Things I've done during the day to no avail, in that order
- tried another set of tires
- glued front sidewalls
- go to 2.7F/2.5R
- go from 450R to 350
- removed the front brace
- toyed around with screws on motor mount
- swapped the alloy chassis to cwf one (yes... I did that during raceday and missed a couple of mains)
- go 5K diff
- heck, even changed motors and speedo setup

Checks I did during the day
- check that I hadn't swapped L/R C-hubs (for caster...)
- changed diffs (in case there was a warped something in there with a missing tooth or whatever)
- detweak after every run (not that it needed it... still do it all the time)
- checked for a binding transmission, it's 100.0% smooth and free
- no fleeing CVD pins
you get the idea.

The car was very very very edgy, I basically had to "endure" it all day and feather the throttle rather than drive it. I'm usually a mid-to-bottom A-mainer with 50/60 or so entries, and this time there were only 29 drivers due to a calendar conflict... and I was bottom of the B, and duking it out with people who usually are two mains below me. I understand I'm getting older and all and the younger guns are getting faster, but the car really really wasn't helping and I was doing one mistake every couple of laps or so, losing the rear all the time. When this is the case, usually it's the tires, but I did pull out 2 sets of Rex30's that day. Statistically, it can't be that.

At this point in time I'm wondering whether I've missed something during the assembly, or whether the nature of the car is to be edgy as hell... I can't believe it's the latter. Xrays are meant to be the RC equivalent of a gucci loafer, ie a confortable car that about works right out of the box with no efforts. Saturday, mine was a POS.

I'll tear it down fully and rebuild it from the ground up. If you have any good suggestions...

Thanks,
Paul
Something definitely sounds off. I assume your droop seettings are in order. I think the car is more aimed at high traction surfaces but the balance should be ok even in less than ideal conditions. I also still run the 2017 car and it´s working everywhere.
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