TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Round 7 Race Recap kids -







Race 7 Race Recap: Race Recap: 2019/2020 UF1 Series ? Race 7 - United States GP | UF1 RC
Formula 1 Standings: Formula 1 Standings
Formula 2 Standings: https://uf1rc.com/formula-2-standings/
Formula 1 Constructor's Championship: https://uf1rc.com/formula-1-construc...hip-2019-2020/

justyjuice

Hey guys im interested in getting started as rookie in UF1 .. I can't seem to find much info on the cars and class... how to get started? what cars are doing the best on track and why ... and any feedback for rookies, any rookie advise and how we can start to compete or at least learn about it more....

thanks so much !!

photeckk

iTrader: (24)

Check out the website
Home | UF1 RC - Formula 1 RC Racing

As a rookie you will need to start in F2. You can start in F1 if you qualify by meeting a predetermined qualifying time. The website provides information on the rules for each class. The difference between classes has to do with motor speed and tire choices. Races last for 15mins and you will need to do two pit stops. You will need to run a rwd f1 chassis. People run Tamiya’s Trf103 , Xray x1, roche evo, Capricorn f1, exotek f1r3, etc. Contact Tony Phalen...great guy. All info available on the website.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

As photeckk suggested, check out the website for more information. The format is geared towards two different specs - basically sportsman (F2) and expert (F1). The F2 class is a little more relaxed - just get out there and have fun. The F1 class is for those that have honed their skills to compete at the highest level with open wheel cars - not quite as easy sometimes as it might seem.

Most of the F1 cars out right now are competitive in the F2 class, it's really up to you skill level in tuning and driving. You don't need to get all crazy-spendy right out of the gate; get something affordable and work your way up to the high-dollar rides. The F2 class is spec'ed so that you can be competitive with a budget car.

The current ruleset for the F1 and F2 classes are set for last season. However, there will be changes coming in both, I just haven't posted them yet since the current season is on hold due to the Coronavirus. Once we finish the season, we're probably going to take a short break and jump right into the next one.

Hope to see you out there and if you have any other questions, you can post them here or contact me at [email protected].

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Start with checking with club or track to see if they run the format

justyjuice

Thanks so much Tony and everyone for the advise.. in terms of body style and design.. which do you guys think is the most F1 looking or realistic? my wife and I are big f1 fans so we may make it a couples hobby thing.... any advice?

justyjuice

Thanks!! but with Corona Virus I don't think I can do that now.. ? im hoping to catch up with my RC hobby during this down time and build my first F1 ... I am leaning towards the XRAY... or AE? any thoughts?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Associated discontinued the F6 last summer. I’m still going to run mine. But on road is in a rough spot in my area. There is an F1 class. But it does not use UF1 rules.

Does were you plan to run have a website or Facebook group? You should be able to get the basic rules they use.

GT CRUSING

The Xray is a good choice, pretty reliable, tends to have more adjustment options than other kits and its very easy to buy replacement parts. The only con is that it is one of the most expensive kits on the F1 market, but a good half of UF1 drivers tend to have this kit

cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

I also have been looking into getting into F2 racing in SoCal. Any thoughts on Infinity F1 car (I currently have their 4wd touring car)? Thanks!

Chirag

justyjuice

From all the feedback and research I have have been hearing looks like hands down the XRAY is probably the best option... a little pricy but a badass kit!!

GT CRUSING

Very cool that the Formula E is added to the schedule, though they don't actually do pitstops in real life during the race, so that would be unrealistic. They do however do something of a joker lane, where you go on the outside lane and get a boost to over take...which kinda isn't replicateable in rc.

Also, some of the rules are in the article for FE but not in the official rules and regs page, like chassis built as per kit plus any tamiya hop ups
(Having it in there should help any new guys not show up out of regulation, which would be unfortunate)

Also, we can use hop up hex screws right? I don't like stock Phillips head screws, too easy to strip.

sugs

iTrader: (4)

Tamiya screws are JIS(Japanese Industrial Standard) so Phillips screwdrivers don't work very well, even with what appears to be the appropriate size. JIS screwdrivers won't strip the stock screws.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

On the contrary - the Formula E USED to do pit stops - the guys would jump out of one car and into a full-charged car. Now, of course, they batteries are so much better that they don't do that, but we can still pretend it was 'back in the day'

I have seen a few other types of RC racing use a joker lane, but that's just something else I'd have to keep up with. I'm too old to add another level of difficulty to the Series lol

I agree - I need to update the Rules page for the FE to reflect the 'TCS rules' with UF1 changes - I'll get to that here soon. Thanks for pointing that out!

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Yes. We are finishing up last season (8 race season, COVID shut us down at race 7) and the F1 class uses 21.5 (or 25.5) while F2 uses 25.5. Everyone starts in F2 unless they 'qualify' for F1 - we'll be setting up qualifying days again after the conclusion of this season.

Both F1 and F2 are 15 minute races with 2 pit stops. Only Formula E (which runs a Spec 17.5T FT Hobbywing system) will be running 10 minutes at the FINAL race of this season (with 1 pit stop). It's more of a introductory race to get people excited about it for next season. There will most likely be rule changes for all 3 classes next season - you know - to spice it up a bit!