2421Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

09-12-2017, 08:02 PM

#1066

justpoet

Tech Elite

iTrader: (16)

Join Date: Jan 2012

Location: NH, USA

Posts: 2,063

Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasburrito

Seems like a great design. now I see why they were hiding the release pictures for so long. It looks like a lot of plastic. Like a blob of it. Sex sells. I am not seeing it. Want more wieght back. (Melt plastic and reform parts to your own likings. Thread died after pic release. Lol. is there carbon anything. J/k I like any Rc. But whatever. Cheers .release the shills in 3 2 1. Go

Honestly, most of the Tekno talk for any vehicle is over in various FaceBook groups now. But, with the info all out on the EB410, most people will be more silent, knowing all they can until it ships in a couple more weeks. Then you'll see more chatter again once people start getting it in their hands and on the track.

09-12-2017, 10:18 PM

#1067

renjie

Tech Regular

iTrader: (2)

Join Date: Jun 2003

Location: Auckland

Posts: 330

Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)

We may be silent but we are all walking around giggling by how awesome it is going to be..... well, I am anyway.

Tekno are innovators, they can't be like that if they clone everyone else.

mrniss99 likes this.

09-13-2017, 07:33 AM

#1068

jnslprd

Tech Master

iTrader: (5)

Join Date: Feb 2005

Posts: 1,254

Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)

Is the cheap toy grade carbon fiber they use on our toy cars any better than plastic?

09-13-2017, 07:41 AM

#1069

Jason B

Tech Fanatic

iTrader: (13)

Join Date: Dec 2005

Posts: 908

Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)

I think it's funny how much people sweat the durability on these kits. Here are the issues I've come across in the past 9 months while putting in 5 - 15 hours at the track week in and week out:

- AE B6D (x2): Two front bulkheads
- Xray XB4: zero issues
- Tekno EB48.4: zero issues
- TLR 22 4.0: Ball cup popped off
- AE 3.1e: zero issues

Only the folks who were racing a decade ago can appreciate just how good we have it these days.

But hey... if it's plastic, replace it with CF. If it's CF, replace it will aluminum. If it's aluminum, replace it with CF or plastic (shave those g's!)

ezlight likes this.

09-13-2017, 07:45 AM

#1070

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

So right now based on what has been stated that the starting setup is oriented towards, do we have recommended changes to start with for lower traction conditions, maybe even using those diff case shims discussed?

Right now personally thinking:

- Lighter Diff fluids, say 10-10-5 all around
- 1 spring rate lighter on rear
- 50cst lighter oil front and rear (PT Racing oils, assuming close to Tekno ones?)
- Lighter rear sway bar (1 or 2 levels)

But if there is anything Tekno recommends to go with would be great.

09-13-2017, 07:59 AM

#1071

tvih

Tech Fanatic

Join Date: May 2017

Location: Finland

Posts: 948

Trader Rating: 0

Jason, indeed - I often do wonder what the heck people do with their cars that they break all the time

Granted I haven't gotten to properly race yet since the two indoor club races in 2014/2015 so no car-to-car collisions to worry about, but having driven this summer through I'd say at least close to 100 packs - would've driven much much more if not for the crappy weather for nearly the whole summer - between my track cars I've:
- broken an SC10 front bumper
- broken an SC10 shock bottom cap
- cracked a B5M top front plate that was still driveable but changed anyway to be safe
- one bent SC10 4x4 dogbone that was still usable and might've even been bent before I got the car in the first place but just didn't notice
- lost an SCTE 3.0 shock spring bottom cup thingie, whether it broke or just came loose otherwise I don't know - also lost one bottom screw from it

And that's pretty much it? The rest have been electronics issues which obviously are a different topic. And this on a 1/8 outdoor track with a couple bigger jumps than a 1/10 track would probably have.

09-13-2017, 08:23 AM

#1072

JoeW

Tech Regular

iTrader: (6)

Join Date: Feb 2013

Location: Tampa, Fl

Posts: 297

Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)

So apparently there's PLASTIC in this kit?

Oh boy, going to have to call FierceRc to cancel my preorder

09-13-2017, 08:36 AM

#1073

EbbTide

Tech Elite

iTrader: (39)

Join Date: Nov 2012

Location: Bay Area, Ca

Posts: 4,264

Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)

Speaking of plastic, does anyone know if the cross shaft piece for the diffs is plastic? If so, that is a mighty nice touch to lighten things for 13.5

If it was gone over in the 3 part series I apologize for missing it!

09-13-2017, 08:54 AM

#1074

AJrollin

Tech Regular

iTrader: (3)

Join Date: Jul 2012

Posts: 399

Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)

My 224 2.0 has no carbon and is probably the best 4wd buggy Ive ever had so far..and .. is very durable. Plastics wich today are really a mixture of carbon and plastic have come a very long ways and in most cases actually work better than carbon fiber. Durability and lower cost...seems like a no brainer. I'm sure Tekno has fully tested this car and if they felt carbon fiber would have been better they would have put it in the kit. Tekno is known for making strong cars, I doubt Tekno would risk their reputation to save few bucks on plastic if they thought it would be to weak

mrniss99, JoeW and ezlight like this.

09-13-2017, 10:04 AM

#1075

Matthew_Armeni

Tech Master

Thread Starter

iTrader: (31)

Join Date: Nov 2007

Location: Temecula

Posts: 1,864

Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

Speaking of plastic, does anyone know if the cross shaft piece for the diffs is plastic? If so, that is a mighty nice touch to lighten things for 13.5

If it was gone over in the 3 part series I apologize for missing it!

Yes, that part is plastic.

EbbTide likes this.